3D model description
IF YOU DOWNLOAD PLEASE COMMENT& POST ON YOUR BUILD SO THAT I CAN MAKE IMPROVEMENTS
I was not happy with the existing part cooling fan & duct setup on my "Sprite Pro upgrade for the Ender 3 V2". Looking (at the original) carefully you will see that the printing nozzle is offset from the part cooling fan outlet which showed up with uneven part cooling.
My main priority was not faster prints however I ran test a test cube of 60mm/s at .2mm layers (Silk PLA) and am very happy with the results.
My main design criteria were:
1) Use existing fan & angle away from heated bed
2) Better view of nozzle
3) Better cooling
4) Keep it light
5) Reasonably short print time (about 2.5 hours .2mm for both parts)
6) Small shopping list of extra components
7) Simple installation
I've spent a lot of time making prototypes & doing tests until I was happy with the results. Performance of this unit is better than the original yet still utilising the original fan.
You must determine the suitability of this item before purchasing. All risk consequential or otherwise remains with the purchaser.
3D printing settings
I used a .2mm layer height for duct and fan mount & supports. I used PLA (black) for prototypes and PETG (white) for my final build. Not sure PLA will survive very high bed & nozzle temps but I printed the final PETG parts with the protype duct (which was PLA). Used appropriate priofiles/speed etc.
Duct: Tree supports recommended for back as it curves upward but your printer may do better than mine. It will print without supports in the orientation shown. I found I didn't need supports at the air outlet or at the point where the two ducts join. One item to note is that at the point in the slice preview shown without supports, it prints the green lines in the air but then sorts itself out and you get a good result (see photo of actual part) . There will be some strands that you need to pull out or allow supports there.
Once printed it should be a nice snug fit. If you upgraded your machine you will probably have the original part cooling blower fan which you can use to check. Don't force anything, it should fit nicely.
Fan mount: I found it best to print it upside down and use tree supports. I didnt need supports for the screw holes.
Materials:
2 or 4 M2x16 screws & nuts. (I found there is no need for nuts at the top of the fan.
3x M3x4mm screws to hold teh mount on. Unfortunately the scerws that were on mine (holding teh original metal mount) are a fraction too short. You could use slightly longer screws with a couple of washers.
Inatallation:
I RECOMMEND YOU TAKE THE WHOLE EXTRUDER OFF THE CARRIAGE - it is a lot easier to work with it off the machine. However I do it with the extruder in place (had enough practise by now).
TAKE CARE NOT TO BREAK THE FAN WIRES.
DON'T OMIT THE HOT GLUE STRAIN RELIEF (unless you are good at soldering and want to risk it - ask me why 8-) ).
1) Small mod to the fan. Break away the little strain relief holding the cables (you could also carefully unravel the wire) and put a blob of hot glue as shown in the picture. Removing the strain relief just leaved enough extra length to be able to move the fan to it's new position without any soldering.
2) Slude the fan into the housing with the opening at the bottom and the wires (looking from the front) at the bottom right.
3) Position the bottom 2 screws and nuts (M2) and before tightening make sure the duct and fan fit neatly together.
4) Mount the whole unit using the M3 screws.
5) The mount is slotted. Position the outlets so that they are almost touching the silicone cover. Not too low or it will touch teh bed.