I made a hinged cover for the upper glass, for the X1C printer and P1S.

I tried to obtain a product that was both aesthetically pleasing and functional but still resistant and robust, I personally carried out several load and exercise tests, and I have never encountered serious problems.

I balanced print quality / print time, therefore if you want to obtain perfect aesthetics I recommend lowering the height of the layers to 0.12 / 0.16 or using the adaptive layers coinciding with the curvatures, however the result already obtained is very satisfactory.
To cushion the glass I made templates in the frame for 12x3 mm bumpers which can be found anywhere, my advice is to get a 2 mm sponge like the existing one and apply it to the frame only for the part resting on the glass, I made some caps to glue onto the bumper templates in case the sponge was used.
The frame is locked using small pliers to be inserted under the iron and plastic frame of the printer and matching the holes on the cover frame (see photo).
The hinge pin is molded in such a way that it fits perfectly, without exerting too much force, I just recommend cleaning it very well from any support or brim present, I haven't tried it but almost certainly a 4mm metal pin would also work perfectly , all the tests were carried out with the pin printed in Pla, I recommend printing it separately and parallel to the printing surface to make it as resistant as possible.
I inserted 2 pins in the front part to allow the printer to be ventilated when needed with two opening levels.

If you have not placed AMS or other accessories on the glass, just one pin is enough, otherwise if there is a weight on the glass I recommend using both the right and left pin. Finally, in the rear part coinciding with the hinges on the right side, a bolt has been created to keep the door open safely, be careful not to force it while trying to close.

Some non-usable fixing holes have been made in the frame; they will be used in the future to support the LEDs.
The glass fits perfectly into the two guides with very little pressure, and once the cover is hinged with the frame there is no way it will move.To dismantle all the supports and Brim, you will need pliers and about 5-10 minutes, however nothing is impossible, all the supports come off very easily, the assembly of everything including the glass, I recommend doing it on a table, and then transport everything to the printer and insert the fixing clamps.

Updates 28/02:
1. inserted new printing surface with circular LED frame, made with a 45° inclined profile and 12mm LED adhesion surface, the frame is divided into 4 pieces, due to the blockage in the lateral clamps made in the frame, not you can make a mistake because the pliers only coincide with the holes on the frame, and 2 rods to fit into the two frames blocked by the pliers, to fit it you need to slightly twist the two rods, which is easier to do than to explain. Logically, 3 blocking clamps made in the first print will have to be eliminated and the LED frame must be used with the new clamps incorporated.

2. in the same print plane file there are two other planes to replace the bumpers, with the help of TPU I created two planes that are positioned perfectly on the fixed frame to cushion the glass in support, they can be glued with glue warm or simply left resting, the first type is a simple 2mm TPU mat, while the second type is a 1.2mm TPU mat in which 2 inclined fins have been positioned which serve to better cushion the glass.