Ender 5 Plus complete mount + fanduct system for E3D Volcano and more

Hey guys, this is "just another" system of E3D Volcano shrouds, for the Ender 5 Plus in this case. I designed this specifically to operate the machine with PCTG, without the hassle of setting up a water cooling system (that would be my fourth, just...no way).
But wait: what's the deal here?
Well, you just need to buy two 5015 blowers (preferably, 24 V ones), buy/build a Y splitter to power both, a bunch of M3 screws and nuts, and the E3D Volcano of course!

Assembly:
After you've removed all the stock metal cage, layer cooling fan and Creality OEM hotend, you can press-fit the right-hand side shroud on the heatsink studs.
Be careful: you're going to reuse the heatsink 4010 fan, the thermistor and the heater cartridge! Don't cut those wires!
Using short, very large-head M3 screws, secure the RHS fanduct in place. If you're not going to use the collar mount, the whole shroud will be kept in place by the hotend itself. There is a 4 mm bore hole, to guide PTFE tubing in direct-drive systems using stock or equivalent-sized heatsink.
If you do want to use the Volcano, use the two-piece collar assembly to block it to the carriage. Put thermal paste on the larger thread of the heatbreak, insert cartridge and thermistor in the heatblock, and INSULATE IT with silicone sock or similar. Snap the heatsink fan shroud in place.
Secure the LHS duct to the carriage using the two diagonal M3 holes. Then, use two screws and nuts (M3) for the BLTouch.
You can now mount the 5015 blowers. I suggest Nyloc M3 nuts, to avoid shaking/vibration issues.
Double-check the wiring, reflash firmware if necessary, PID tune, and...GOOD TO GO!
When heatblock is properly insulated, the heatsink stays cool. You can print very hot (270+ °C) with this setup, and still achieve awesome bridgings and details thanks to the massive airflow of the 5015s. Optimum retraction length for E5+ Bowden: 5 mm.

Having only spare parts of the E3D V6 hotend, and wanting to recycle the stock fan (which I know, it's noisy, but the Noctuas have nowhere near the pressure necessary to keep the heatsink cool enough), I printed a proper shroud (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058949), but you can essentially use whatever fits in between the blowers. Preferably shift slightly to the left the heatsink axial fan as you can see in the pictures, so that there is some more millimeter for the RHS blower to suck air without taking it from the 4010.

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