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Led Bridge Lamp - bolted version

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  • LBL_Curved_Segment_LED_Channel_Covers.skp
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_LED_Channel_Covers.stl
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_LED_Channels_Rounded.skp
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_LED_Channels_Rounded.stl
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_Sides.skp
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_Sides.stl
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_Top.skp
  • LBL_Curved_Segment_Top.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Base_with_Ballast_Tray.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Base_with_Ballast_Tray.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Cap.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Cap.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Center.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Center.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Height_Extension.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Height_Extension.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Mounting_Piece_Mama-Papa.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Mounting_Piece_Mama-Papa.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Side_12mm_PWR_Inlet.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Side_12mm_PWR_Inlet.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Side_16mm_Switch.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Side_16mm_Switch.stl
  • LBL_Foot_Side_Std.skp
  • LBL_Foot_Side_Std.stl
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_LED-Channel_Cover.skp
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_LED-Channel_Cover.stl
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_LED-Channel_Rounded.skp
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_LED-Channel_Rounded.stl
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_Sides.skp
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_Sides.stl
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_Top.skp
  • LBL_Straight_Segment_Top.stl

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Publication date 2022-10-04 at 20:08
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Published to Thingiverse on: 2018-02-03 at 19:00
Design number 872003

3D printer file info

3D model description

A remix of the Led Bridge Lamp by Opossums :
- bolted version
- foot parts printable on Flashforge Dreamer

The wonderfull Led Bridge Lamp made by designer Opossums
(see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1639224) makes me think of
the Eiffel Tower.

The original design features relatively large 'tabs', marked 'Left'
and 'Right' on the segment sides.
These tabs are the reason the side- and top-parts of the segment need
to be printed with supports.

I was looking for a design that could be printed without supports
and came up with this alternative version :

  • CURVED and STRAIGHT SEGMENTS :

    • No more supports needed, no post-printing cleanup work, less material wasted.
    • Segment sides Left and Right are now identical, and so are top panels A and B - resulting in a more simple design.
    • You WILL need a handfull of M2 bolts and (nylon lock) nuts to inter-assemble the segments : M2x10mm : 3 per segment M2x6mm : 1 per curved segment M2x20mm : 4 per foot
    • You will need a long, thin screwdriver to assemble the segments.
    • Segments can be assembled without glue (except for the LED channels and top-to-side of course). If you use glue, the bolts will keep the parts in place while the glue dries.
    • Base-plates 'mama' and 'papa' were redesigned to fit the M2 bolts
    • Straight segments were modified as well to match the bolted assembly method.
    • The LED channel sides have been rounded - somehow this prints cleaner on a Flashforge Dreamer at a cost of a little more PLA. Try it out or use the original flat sided LED channels.
  • BRIDGE FOOT :

    • The Foot parts are too large for a Flashforge Dreamer printer- platform so I resized the Foot Base, Center and Side parts.
    • The Foot Base now fits inside the Foot Center part
    • Foot parts Center, Cap and Height Extension can also be bolted together using M2 bolts
    • New design of the Foot Side part to use less filament.
    • Added small tabs to the top of the Foot Side-panels. These tabs fit in the bottom of the Foot Cap, so you don't have to glue the Foot Sides to the Foot Center part.
    • As I did not need electronics in the Foot Base, I added a ballast-tray and glued 2 layers of M8 nuts and some lead airgun pellets in between those and so added some 500gr of weight per foot.

    Sketchup files are included so you can modify parts if you need
    some sort of PCB-board on top of the Foot Base ballast tray,
    or if you use a different size/type of power inlet or switch.

Enjoy!

Printed on Flashforge Dreamer in PLA, no supports, no raft.
First layer max. speed 10mm/s, 30% infill - standard print resolution.

3D printing settings

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