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92MM Fan Shroud for Maker Select V2

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  • 92mm_fan_shroud.SLDPRT
  • 92mm_fan_shroud.STL
  • 92mm_fan_shroud_PR_DR.SLDPRT
  • 92mm_fan_shroud_Power_Left_Data_Left.STL
  • Exterior_92mm_Fan_Grille.SLDPRT
  • Exterior_92mm_Fan_Grille.STL

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Publication date 2022-10-28 at 20:51
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Published to Thingiverse on: 2019-02-10 at 18:34
Design number 903455

3D printer file info

3D model description

A while back, there seemed to be a "rush" on external 120MM fan shrouds for the Maker Select V2.

That little stock 40mm was NOT getting it done, and it was sucking air IN, instead of pulling air OUT.

I liked the 120mm design, but I didn't like how, to me, it grossly oversized the end of the control box.

I wanted something that maintained the stock control box profile.

So, I designed a shroud that accommodated an internal 92MM Arctic F9 fan.

It attaches using the same 4 screw mounts that retain the stock cover.

Then the fan fits in, and a fan grille is attached over it with 4 longer M3 screws.

In the process, I did a couple of additional things:

  1. I eliminated the rear Power Switch in favor of a lighted rocker in the bottom front of the control box. I got sick and tired of reaching to the back of the control box just to turn it on/off. THIS REQUIRED metal cutting.

  2. I replaced the switched/fused Power Cord feed with just a fused Power Cord feed.

  3. I re-positioned the Melzi board to one interior side of the control box, which allowed me to gain easier access to the SD card port, which allowed me to design a shroud to firmly hold a full-size SD adapter. This AGAIN REQUIRED metal cutting AND tapping.

  4. I lengthened the cable harness by about 6 inches, giving me some more slack out of the control box.

  5. I added a MOSfet for the Hot Bed. The mount incorporates both the MOSfet and the smoothers, but my design needs some work as it's warping in the box.

  6. I added smoothers for the axis and extruder motors. Honestly, I don't believe they've done ANYTHING by way of improvement, so I'm not going into detail about that.

I have not detailed the process I went through to modify the metal control box/reposition the Melzi board, as I'm just not sure that it is a mod that many folk would want to make. You'd be hacking metal.

If you ARE interested, add a Comment requesting it, or PM me, and I'll try to detail it as best as possible: it was a really subjective mod.

The Fan Shroud is configured in a couple different options:

  1. Power and Data out the same side: Power low and Data high.
  2. Power out one side and Data out the other.

Depending on which configuration you'd like, simply mirror the appropriate piece in your slicer.

Be forewarned: when I printed this many months ago, I was printing at 60mm/s, and it took over 24 hours to complete. I was nervous then, as I only had the printer for maybe a month.

Nowadays, to me, a 24+ hr print is nothing more than a walk in the park. :-)
And it helps that I print everything at 80mm/s or faster.

With the SD card shroud positioned on the TOP of the control box, I don't ever "bump" the card accidentally and inadvertently halt a print.

Now, I HAVE, ONE TIME ONLY, accidentally hit the front mounted power switch and lost a print that way, but only once. :-) Be warned! :-)

I use 2 little squares of 3M automotive dbl-stick to hold the SD shroud in place, and it stays there quite well. When I want to physically connect via USB, I just pry it off and plug in.
I hope to go at it again one day, re-config the cutout, and re-design a shroud that simply snaps in, making USB control that much easier to achieve and eliminating the dbl-stick tape. Details about that can be requested as before: it''s another purely subjective mod.

All in all, it was not a difficult project, but there's drilling and cutting and tapping of metal involved, and that just may not be everyone's cup-o-tea.

I've included the STL and SLDPRT for the Fan Shroud and Fan Grille.

The other components can be made available on request.

3D printing settings

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