Bagpipe Stand

I am constantly looking for a place to place my pipes when I was done practicing except my case. I used a bed in my spare room until my wife decided I could no longer do that. A band mate, who was having a similar problem suggested a stand to hold the pipes.

So, armed with my rudimentary Fusion360 skills and a 220x220 build plate I kludged together this design. This design uses a 10 foot section of 3/4schedule 40 pvc and 9 3d printed joints. I used a combination of PETG and PLA.

The bases are printed in PETG, for strength, with a 2.8mm layer hight and everything else was printed in PLA with a 2.0mm layer hight. All of them were printed with 75% infill. The prototype was printed completely in PLA and it has had no issues supporting the weight for the past 2 months.

The nice thing about this stand is that it is very adjustable. I'm including the lengths of each PVC that I used. You can make it higher or lower by changing the lengths of the uprights. After that you just have to adjust the lengths of the cross pieces.

The weight of the pipes is carried by the legs. The stand is designed to lean forward slightly. The longer the legs, the more stable. The sweat spot is between 12 and 14 inches.

When you print this you will need to print the hook twice, everything else just once. You only need supports for the cross supports. The upper body you need to flip over and rotate to fit on a 220x220 printer. The hooks print pointing up. I used a brim but I didn't use supports. You will get a little stringing inside but it won't be visible and it cuts down on the print time.

Assembling the stand:

Needless to say, but, use at your own risk. I have made 3 that work perfectly but if this collapses or your pipes fall and break, that's not my problem.

Supplies:

10 foot section of 3/4 inch schedule 40 PVC
Something to cut said PVC (I used a ratcheting cutter but a hacksaw will work)
Super glue
Sandpaper
X-acto knife, de-burring tools, etc...

Print the 9 pieces. You will probably have to sand the insides. The pipe is meant to fit snugly but don't force it, it will crack. I used 3 different sections of PVC all of them had a slightly different OD.

Cut the PVC. The cuts don't need to be exact just close. The lengths you need are;

 Two 31.5 inch sections - the uprights
 Two 14 inch sections - the legs 
 Two  3 inch section - hook supports
 One 12.5 inch section - bottom crosspiece
 One 8.75 inch section - upper crosspiece

Dry fit all the pieces before glueing them.

Insert the hook supports into the upper section. Attach the hooks to the hook supports. Make sure the are parallel and facing up. The hooks should fit flush with the upper support. You may have to trim the PVC slightly to make them fit.

Slide the crosspiece support down each of the uprights. I centered them, it's just about 14.5 inches from either edge to the edge of the support. If they don't slide, sand them. The crosspiece design is crap and there are some artifacts inside.

Put the feet on the legs and insert the legs into the base. Insert the uprights into the base. Put the crosspieces in and slide the two halves together.

Finally put the upper section on the top of the uprights.

It will be a little wobbly before it is glued together. The important thing is to make sure each base is flat on the floor. If the bottom crosspiece is a little too long the outside of the base will lift and the whole thing will rock even after it's glued.

If everything looks good repeat the assembly but this time with glue. Make sure the upper section is the last piece put on. If you put it on before the crosspieces it will crack when you try and squeeze them in.

If you want to make it look pretty you can use white filament to match the pipe or use any color and paint the PVC. If you are going to paint the PVC do it before assembly. Mask off the PVC that slides into the joints or it will not fit. Wipe down all the PVC with acetone to remove the oil and crud on it. Then paint. Let everything dry then assemble.

The pipes hang on the bass done. Find the center point for the weight of the pipes, for all the sets I tested it was the first section of the bass right by the stock.

I used SUNLU black PETG and GST3D PLA but any brand will work.
The base was printed at 2.8 layer hight with 75% infill
Everything else 2.0 layer hight with 74% infill