Splitzer Plus : A tool for creative photography

Introducing the Splitzer + filter, the perfect tool for creative photographers looking for new cool and exciting ways of capturing moments.

What is it?

The Splitzer + is a filter you screw on your favorite lens and it works by covering a portion of the image, allowing you to compose a collage of images in a single frame, using a multiple exposure feature in your camera (whether it is film or digital).

You can expose half a frame, turn the filter around and expose the other half, combining two different people turning a landscape into a dream-like space with an ocean over the land… The possibilities are infinite!

With my exclusive design you can not only expose half the frame, but you can also adjust the angle of the “slice” you want to expose. You can expose 4 different “slices“, 8, 12, 16… All the way to 24 different exposures in a single frame!

Show me some examples!

Here you can check out some examples taken with this kind of filter (usually known as a "split filter").

I Like it! Is it compatible with my camera/lens?

The Splitzer + filter is compatible with any camera/lens (digital or film) that uses standard threaded filters, the results will vary depending on the focal lenght of your lens but it's possible to mount it in any threaded lens, you just need to know the correct filter size and 3D print it. Your camera needs to have a double exposure function or be able to shoot multiple exposures somehow (if you're not sure if your camera has that function, a quick Google search can clarify it for you).

How does it work?

1. Meter your picture without the filter (using manual shutter settings in your camera)

2. Screw the filter on your lens and adjust the angle to your liking (There are markings every 15 degrees as a guide).

3. Compose and shoot your first "slice" (use the multi-exposure feature in your camera).

4. Rotate the filter to expose a new slice (you can unscrew the filter a bit to easily rotate the angle without changing it).

5. Compose your picture and shoot again.

6. Repeat step 4 as many times as you want with as many "slices" as you want!

Do you have some tips?

For better results, use a normal or slightly long lens (50mm and up) with a small aperture value (f11 and smaller). It helps if you have a lens/camera capable of depth of field preview (closing down the iris) so you can see clearly the composition of your image. Remember, experimenting is the key!

Is it hard to print?

I designed the Splitzer + filter specially for 3D printing, it’s easy to print and easy to assembly. You don’t need supports or glue, it snaps in place by itself, it comes in 3 pieces (two blades and one base). Each filter is marked with its corresponding size, so you always know which one you need.

I want it! What's included with my purchase?

With your purchase you get instructions for printing and assembling your Splitzer + filter, and 11 (yes, ELEVEN!) different sizes of the Splitzer plus covering most of the standard filter sizes:



-37mm
-40.5mm
-49mm
-52mm
-55mm
-58mm
-62mm
-67mm
-72mm
-77mm
-82mm

If you don’t see your preferred size listed just send me a DM and I can make it for you!

Don't hesitate to ask here or at Instagram if you have any question!

You need a well-calibrated machine to achieve the tolerances needed for this print to work. You don't need anything fancy, just a well-calibrated 3D printer (I use a humble Ender 3).

I use PLA for all sizes and they work great, you can experiment with other materials but PLA should do just fine, no need for fancy materials. I print at 100 mm/min and it takes about 2-3 hours (the time depends on the size of the filter itself, smaller filters print much faster).

-The base needs to be printed at very low layer height (0.08mm) to get the threads right, the blades can be printed at 0.20-0.24mm but I usually go for 0.08mm too because I print all three pieces at the same time.
-Disable supports.
-I reccomend using the ironing feature (or similar) to achieve a smooth surface on both blades, this is optional.
-You might use a bit of sanding of the edges of the blades (and the inside of the base) in order to have a smooth operation.
-The base should be printed upside down (with the threads up).