How to Create a "ridiculously.awesome" Casted Glass Reproduction of Your Favorite Movie Prop

I would like to start by saying that I loved the process of inventing and documenting the last major instructable that I wrote entitled How to Build an Equatorial Mount for Long Exposure Astrophotography.  I wrote this for the "Make it Real Challenge" and by getting involved I met some new friends with similar interests and ambitions.  I was also lucky enough to make it into the top 50 and then walked away with a 1st prize win and an awesome new 3D printer. (Congratulations to thorssoli for winning the "ridiculously.awesome" grand prize 3D printer.)  Now that I've warmed up my keyboard I'm ready to take on the next challenge.  I've decided to really flex my geek muscles to their maximum serviceable load.  My goal is to create something, well, "ridiculously.awesome" and to document the process of creation in a way that keeps you, the reader, interested enough to read through the whole thing without crying.  Not only should this instructable keep your attention, but it must also act as a guide that balances being concise while being sufficiently descriptive.  The goal is to enable anyone with access to the necessary tools and skills to create something similar relying solely on this instructable.  If this guide achieves these goals then I may just have a chance at bringing home another "ridiculously awesome" contest prize and possibly even begin earning enough geek points to earn the moniker "ridiculously.awesome".

This guide also performs the role of documenting my experimentation with different methods to achieve the vision I have for the end goal.  This is the first time I've attempted any of these processes so you will get to see the ugly truth of the mistakes I make along the way.  I will also share how I address these inevitable hazards that unexpectedly force a course correction.

So you've gotta be asking yourself by now, "what the heck is this guy gonna show me how to make?"  Just like the title says I'm going to make a glass casting of one of my favorite movie props.  No, not the monolith from 2001--that would be way too easy.  For me the first thing that came to mind as a subject was Han Solo frozen in carbonite (GP (Geek Points) ++.)  But why stop there?  Let's up the ante and replace Han's famous grimace with my own scowling mug (GP++.)  So... 'nuff talk let's start making!

• Blah, Blah, Blah (Introduction, Safety and Tools and Materials)
• Creating the 3D Model
• Making the Mother Mold
• Making the Casting Mold
• Performing the Glass Casting
• Finishing Touches

• Read through the entire instructable before you begin any of the steps (I know it's unrealistic to expect that for a lot of us....)
• Prepare the necessary materials and tools beforehand and arrange them where you plan to work
• Decide if you plan to earn Geek Points by attempting the Geek Point Challenges for each section (more on that below)
• When possible make sure to complete any step you begin in one session.  Stopping in the middle of a step will waste time and you may need to back track to remember where you were
• Plan your time to focus on the current stage without distractions.  This instructable will take multiple days to complete
• Be safe² (yes, that means extra safe)
• Breath
• Have fun

• Never stand in a bathtub filled with water while operating a toaster
• Always lift your feet if you are a passenger in a vehicle passing over a railroad crossing
• Never ever listen to Celine Dion while working with molten glass or your head may catch fire

• Molten glass and any foreign material in a high temperature kiln can give off toxic fumes.  Make sure you properly ventilate your work area when operating the kiln to melt your glass
• The refractory components (structurally sound material at high temperatures) in the gypsum plaster and silica mold are harmful to your health if inhaled.  You must use a respirator with sufficient rating to filter out any airborne particles when handling this material
• Broken glass is very sharp and may cut you if not handled properly (duh.)  Wear heavy duty gloves and safety glasses when working with glass
• Heat transfers very slowly in a kiln and your cast glass masterpiece.  Do not open the kiln and touch your cast object until completely cooled.  Failure to do so could not only result in personal injury but also can potentially introduce sufficient stress to the cooling glass to cause cracking or shattering of the piece

1. Qualities to Seek for a Reproduction
2. Capturing and Preparing the Key Frames
3. Actually Creating the 3D Model
4. Modifications and Clean Up

• static (does not change its shape over the time you plan to collect screen shots)
• displayed in HD (lower definition captures may yield a poor 3D model)
• shown at multiple angles
• not obstructed by other objects or characters
• well lit in the source material
• consistently lit in the sample captures

Once you have determined the movie object that you want to create a casted glass model of (I know, "ridiculously.awesome", right?)  you will need to gather screen captures of the object.  The 123D application uses pictures of an object taken from different angles and processes them to generate a 3D model of the object.  We will be feeding our screen captures of the movie into this tool to generate a 3D model of it.

If you can play the content on a PC you can capture screen shots using the computer, but if this isn't an option (what's wrong with you, go buy a decent PC) you can use your camera to capture images on your TV. 

The best way to take pictures of images on a TV is to pause the movie on the scenes you want to capture and then take the pictures at a slow shutter speed.  1/30 of a second or slower is recommended to avoid sampling the screen image faster than the rate that your TV can refresh the image.  Different TVs and technologies refresh the image at different rates so you may have to experiment to figure out what works best to capture a good image.

Once you have captured around a dozen different screen shots that show the object at different angles save them to the computer that you will use to edit them. 

Using your photo editor remove everything from the image that you captured except for the object that you want to convert into a 3D model.  Be careful around the edges of the object not to leave too much or take too much away from the object.  This will help to eliminate extra geometry from being generated by 123D Catch.  Once you have completed doing this for all of the images save them and move on to the next step.

***GEEK POINT CHALLENGE*** [1.B]
Ok, this isn't a new challenge, just a reminder.  If you decided to take pictures of yourself in order to build a 3D model to combine with your chosen movie object make sure you perform these steps on those photos too.  Aw, what the heck... have a couple of GPs on me just for hanging in there. GP+=2;

The following composite image shows most of the cleaned up key frames that my lovely assistant (read: lovely wife) took of me.  These images were processed by 123DCatch to produce the 3D model of my face.



(It was very difficult to hold this pose while these shots were taken!)

After you have gathered and prepared your key frames you must upload them to the 123D service to transform them into a 3D model.  As of the time of this writing there was a tab at the top of the instructables.com page that took you to this service.  Otherwise you can simply go to http://123dcatch.com/ and sign up for an account.

Once you are logged in to your account you can download the 123Dcatch application to your PC.  You can either do this and complete the installation, or launch their web application that runs in your browser.  Either one should work, but I chose to use the web client.  I'll wait here again until you are done installing the application, go on....

...OK, it looks like your back.  If you chose to install the application go ahead and launch it now.  Otherwise open the web application.  When the application window appears you will see the option to "Create a New Capture" at the top left corner.  Click on this item and you will be prompted to sign in to your account.  A file-open dialogue box will appear once you have signed in prompting you to select the photos you wish to process.  Select all of the photos you have cleaned up in the previous step and click "open" to link to your images to the application.  You will now see a button on the upper left corner with a big green check mark.  This is what you must press to create the project.  If you didn't understand that a big green check meant go, well I just don't know what to say to you....  Go ahead, click it.

And now you wait...

...for an indeterminate period of time...

...to receive your 3D model...

...you should reflect upon your 3D transformation by practicing the Japanese art of meditative poetry...





***GEEK POINT CHALLENGE*** [1.C]
Knowledge of this form
will demonstrate your geekness
to Instructables

To earn this round of GPs you must have knowledge of the divine Eastern form of poetry that is both brief and somehow geeky.  If you know the name for this form of meditative expression, good for you--GP+=2.  Now for the real challenge: create your own poem following this structure and post it as a comment to this instructable.  Doing so shall bring enlightenment to your soul and enrich your GP treasury by 15 points.

...So here is a video of the 3D model that resulted from my head shots.  It isn't perfect, but will work for our purpose.




That came out very well, but this is where the brakes come to a screeching halt for this project.  As if poor Han wasn't in enough pain already, this is the twisted model that was returned by 123DCatch.  With only a few unique angles of his carbonite prison in the movies there just wasn't enough information to make a good model.




This is not the end of the road but merely a fork where a decision must be made.  It is also time for an important lesson on two qualities that are paramount to a successful maker: resourcefulness and adaptability.  Instead of crying, throwing shards of broken glass into the air and giving up (which would also induce tears) I've decided to source my 3D model of Han Solo from Thingiverse.  User "gianteye" was kind enough to create and share this model making our original plans possible.  Oh, but there is yet another quality important to a successful maker: perseverance (or more accurately described by our spouses as stubbornness.)  I shall persevere with the original concept but will take one more swing at making a 3D model from a movie.  The understudy for Hansicle is none othat than...

... THE MILLENIUM FALCON!



There are enough unique angles of Han's ghetto cruiser in the movies to get us a nice looking model from 123D. This is what I was able to generate from one scene at the end of Episode 5. I'm sure there's more that could be done; but I'm going to move forward with my original plan and clean up the model of my head as it was delivered by 123D Catch....

We now need to perform some clean up on the model(s) to make sure we can produce a good mother mold (printed 3D object).  This will require you to first open the file in the 123D application.  Go ahead and do that now, I'll wait until you are ready.  Seriously, stop reading and open the file.  I promise I won't go anywhere--its ok, go on...

(HINT: This is the part where you launch the 123D app and open the *.123d file that was generated by 123D Catch.)

...ok, finally.  I should have taken a nap while I was waiting.  Once you have your model opened in the 123D application you should perform a thorough inspection of it at all angles.  Make sure that the model is a continuous surface without any holes.  If there are any breaks in the surface you must "fill them in".  The details for how to do this are beyond the scope of this instructable, but our buddy Bing or our guy Google could lend you a hand in finding guidance on this subject.  Most likely you only have one side of detail on your model unless you were lucky enough that the movie you are using shows all sides of the object d'art.  If this is the case you will need to close this off to create a solid object.

The next thing to prepare your model for printing is to create a flat surface that will be the base of the printed object.  Meshmixer is a very useful tool for this purpose and a well written and illustrated tutorial is available describing how to clean up the model.  Depending on the 3D printer that you use and the shape of your object you may need to create additional support structures.  In my project I chose to build up the 3D print from the backside of the carbonite slab.  This makes the most sense for my model since all of the important details are on the other side.  I will also be using an "open face" mold to create the glass object.  This method will result in a smooth surface on the back of the glass object.  

The last basic operation to perform is deleting all of the superfluous geometry that 123D decided to create.  Once you've done this you should have a clean model that can be used to print your mother mold.  You may need to do some final touch ups on the model geometry if anything came out funky.  This can be done either with Meshmixer or 123D.

***GEEK POINT CHALLENGE*** [1.D]
For a few extra bonus GPs you can add additional geometry to your model.  One example would be to add a decorative base, or perhaps place the object upon the top of an Ionian pillar.  Doing this will earn you another 5 GPs.  Knowing what an Ionian pillar is without looking it up earns you 10 more.

***GEEK POINT CHALLENGE*** [1.E]
This GPC is for those who took it upon themselves to create a monstrous form that merges the movie object with their own mini-me.  If you are not among the chosen few than move along, loiter no longer upon this step.  Otherwise, now is the time to perform the same clean-up process on your model.  You will also need to merge the two objects to form a single solid composition.  This step describes one method of doing this.  If you've taken on this challenge and complete this transformation you've earned another 10 GP.  (If you started this challenge but decided it was too hard then shame on you, SHAME ON YOU.  And you lose 15 GPs.)

Since I choose the high road I now have to stitch my head onto the model of Han Solo frozen in carbonite in order to create the final 3D model that will define the mother mold.  (That was one of the strangest sentences I've ever written.)  I used the 123D App program from Autodesk to perform the following steps.

First launch the application and log in to your account (create an account and install the application if you have not already done this.)




Import the STL model of Han Solo in carbonite that we downloaded previously from Thinigverse.com. 




Next click on the "My Corner" tab in the upper left-hand corner of the application and load the model you created to combine with the first one.  Do not check the model for water tightness when it prompts for this.




Now you will need to rotate, scale and move your models to align them so that they are overlapping in the way you want the 3D printed mother mold to appear. This is a little tricky and may take some time to complete. Be sure that you are not creating any gaps or discontinuities in the model.






You can see here in the final illustration how I lined up the model of my head to replace that of Han Solo's.

1. Preparing for Launch (preparation)
2. Launch! (printing the 3D object)
3. Cleanliness is Godliness (cleaning up the mother mold)

1. Launch the Autodesk 123D application
2. Click on the "My Corner" tab
3. Log in to your Autodesk account
4. Load the model as a new project
5. Save the model as an STL file

• Make sure that you have sufficient material on the filament spool before you print your object.
• Turn on the 3D printer and allow it to warm up for a sufficient period of time
• Perform a dry run of the print, if possible, with your 3D printer

Since my new 3D printer hadn't yet arrived and I needed it to print the mother mold I was in a pinch.  There was a convenient option available nearby: I made it at TechShop (www.techshop.ws) in San Jose.  They have an UP! as well as a Maker Bot and a friendly fellow maker by the name of John was kind enough to show me the ropes on this machine and donated some of his time to my cause.

If you are using an UP! 3D printer you first need to import the STL model into the UP! software.  Your model will look something like this after you import the file.




Click on the "Auto Placement" button to place the object in the center of the printing plate.




You may need to shrink the model a little to make room for a raft if you choose to construct one for your model.




You can see in the following image the additional rafting geometry on the extrusion plate around the model.  This additional material will help the model to resist warping and create a platform for the model to be built upon.




Since your project geometry will be different than mine I won't prescribe specific parameters for printing the model.  But given the shape and details of my object I chose to fill the model with a more porous internal structure and defined support structures for features that exceeded 40 degrees from the extrusion plate.  This will help features like the hands to stay in place while the ABS material hardens.

Once you are all set to kick off the 3D print job you can slam your hand down on that big red button and begin the 3D print process.  My model was ~6" x ~1.5" and took around 1.5hours to print out completely.  


This is 1.5 hours of print time compressed down to one minute--enjoy.

And here is the mother mold model after the completed job.




While the print job is proceeding you may notice some warping at the edges of your model.  There are a number of methods to help mitigate this phenomenon and I suggest you scour the Internets to find a method that works for your hardware and model.  The next step describes the actions I took to clean up the printed model.  

***GEEK POINT CHALLENGE*** [2.A]
How cool would it be to not only have a casted glass model of your movie prop but also a glow-in-the-dark mother mold.  Well you can, and it will also earn you 5 geek points if you take this path.  You can find glow-in-the-dark ABS filament for 3D extrusion printers on Amazon and other retailers on line.

• Use a pair of wire cutters to trim off the rafting material around the base of the 3D printed model
• Use fine sandpaper (200 grit or finer) and lightly sand the regions of the mother mold where you want to smooth out the surface texture
• For geometrically complex regions (face, hands, Ionian pillar capitals, etc...) you should use a small diamond emery board to work around these features
• Apply light, not heavy pressure to remove just a little of the surface at a time
• To correct for warped geometry I sanded down the warped regions until I was satisfied
• Keep a damp cloth handy to wipe off the resulting dust as you go.  Try to keep the model clean as you proceed
• Do this outside or someplace you don't mind getting messy
• When you have completed smoothing the surface of the mother mold to your satisfaction you should scrub it lightly with soft bristle brush.  This will help to remove any excess ABS dust and keep it from mixing with the plaster solution

1. Preparing to Make a Good Impression
2. Making the Casting Mold: Let's Get Plastered
3. The Cure (properly drying the plaster mold)

1. Make sure you have all of your material and equipment ready and near by
   1. Plastic bag (without any holes) at least twice the volume of your plaster mixture.  (I used a thin bag used in grocery stores for holding fresh produce.)
   2. Measuring cup for measuring out the dry and wet ingredients
   3. Cardboard box for receiving the wet plaster and mother mold
   4. The mother mold all nice and sparkly clean
   5. A timer or clock within view to keep track of time while the plaster mixture is slacking (or proceeding with its chemical reaction.)
2. Setup your tools and materials in a place you don't mind getting dirty or messy.  I like to lay down a tarp or old newspaper to make clean up easier
3. Buy a middle-of-the-road bottle of champagne and some flowers--the mother mold will just love them
4. Pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis (more commonly known as silicosis) is not only the longest word to ever appear in an English dictionary but is also a terrible, terrible lung disease related to the inhalation of microscopic crystalline silica dust.  Have and equip your respirator before you begin mixing the dry ingredients.  Don't take any chances by skipping this important safety precaution.

1. [worth 1 GP] What is the name of the drawn character?
2. [worth 2 GPs] What is the significance of the bottle he is holding?
3. [worth 3 GPs] What is the name of the craft that is hovering mysteriously behind his head?
4. [worth 4 GPs] What movie is this hot tub scene from?
5. [BONUS QUESTION] What is the name for the size of the champagne bottle being held by the jovial chubby man?
   • (hint 1: it is the largest standard sized champagne bottle)
   • (hint 2: the mysterious craft hovering in the background has the same name)

Now comes the fun part.  You will have to wait a number of days to allow the plaster casting mold to cure, or dry and strengthen.  If you not do allow the mold to fully dry it may break during the casting process spilling gobs of molten glass onto the floor of your kiln.  This is not a good thing.

Approximately one hour after pouring the plaster mixture it should be solid and a little warm.  Carefully remove the plaster mold from the card board box (or destroy the box if you don't plan on reusing it.)  If you lined the box with paper you should carefully peel it from the mold.  Don't worry if there are pieces stuck to the plaster--they will burn off in the kiln later.  Now place the mold in a dry area with circulating air.  You should leave it there for at least a day before moving on.  The larger your mold, the longer you will need to wait.  Given the size of my mother mold I waited a day before moving forward.


Here we have the air-dried plaster mold with the ABS mother mold firmly held in place.

After letting the plaster mold air-dry, you need to carefully remove the mother mold from the plaster mold.  To do this you will first need to carve away any extra plaster and then warm up the ABS material to make it pliable.  Using a sharp tool carefully cut away at the plaster around the edges of your mold.  Here is what mine looked like after this process.




Now place the mold face up over a pan lined with heavy duty foil.  Place the pan in the oven and set the temperature to 225 degrees.  Allow the mold to soak at this temperature and then repeat this at 325 degrees.  The soak time will depend on the size of your model.  As for mine, I soaked for 30 minutes at each temperature.  At this temperature the ABS model should be very soft.  If it is not, increase the temperature slightly but do not exceed 350 degrees.


Mmmm.  There's no scent quite like fresh baked Han Solo.

Make sure you use a hot glove to handle the mold as it will be hot (duh.)  Then, using a pair of tweezers you can begin extracting the mother mold from the plaster mold.  If your mother mold breaks apart, don't worry about it.  You can always repair it or print another one.  If you need to, use tweezers to remove fine pieces that are otherwise stuck.  This may take you some time, especially if you have a more detailed model.  If you are unable to remove some of the pieces, don't worry, the next step will take care of this.  When you have removed the mother mold turn off the oven and allow the part to slowly cool to room temperature inside the oven. After it has cooled remove it and proceed.



Here we have the extracted mother mold and the final plaster mold.  I was very impressed with the level of detail that the plaster retained.

The final step here is to slowly heat the plaster mold up to 1200 in your kiln.  You should heat the kiln at a rate of about 300 degrees per hour.  Then allow the mold to soak at 1200 degrees for around 30 minutes.  You can then bring the temperature down to 950 degrees at a rate of 300 degrees per hour.  Finally turn off your kiln and allow the mold to slowly cool to room temperature.  Any remaining bits of ABS will burn off in this process, but it is ESSENTIAL to have STRONG, EFFECTIVE VENTILATION to remove the TOXIC FUMES generated by this action.  Do not leave any significant amounts of ABS in your plaster mold in order to minimize the volume of toxic fumes that will be produced.

You will now have a finished plaster mold that is ready to receive the molten glass material!  It is normal for cracks to appear in the plaster mold.  Don't worry about these cracks unless you find that the mold is breaking into separate pieces.  My piece came out of this process with a complete crack at the feet side of the mold.  Just to be safe I surrounded the plaster mold with steel wire to hold the mold in position.

1. Breaking Bottles
2. Glowing Molten Glass of Doom
3. Slowly Cooling the Casted Object

• A hammer
• An empty wine bottle (dark colored glass preferred)
• A heavy duty bag to contain the bottle and broken glass
• SAFETY GLASSES
• HEAVY DUTY GLOVES
• A terracotta pot to hold the broken glass

1. The first labeled segment is full-heat (as fast as possible) to 1600
2. The second labeled segment is full-heat (as fast as possible) to 960
3. The third labeled segment is turning off the kiln and allowing the object to naturally cool to room temperature (assuming you have a firebrick kiln, not fiber.)

This is probably the most difficult part of the process.  It is not so much a technical challenge (although this step is technical in nature) but more of a test of your patience.  It may feel like forever before you bring the temperature down to where you can remove the piece from the kiln.  Properly heating and cooling a casted glass object is essential to its stability.  If not done properly the internal stresses of the glass will be locked in place as it cools making it very likely to fracture or explode.


This is the molten glass after it had melted into the plaster casting mold. The photo was taken at around 1000 degrees (approaching the annealing temperature)

The process to properly cool a warm glass object is called annealing.  It is a process by which you maintain a constant temperature of the glass object at a point where it is still soft enough to "adjust" the molecular alignment of the silica atoms into a state that minimizes internal stress.  Once you drop below the annealing temperature the alignment of molecules becomes rigid and any stresses are locked in to the amorphous solid.  Being an amorphous solid, glass does not have a clear state transition between solid and liquid states but rather changes in viscosity across temperatures.  It is not a liquid in solid state as it is commonly thought of, and no, stained glass windows from ancient cathedrals are not flowing down from the force of gravity.  The thickening of the glass that is observed is a result of the manufacturing process of glass from that era and an understanding that thicker glass on the bottom was more stable than thicker glass on the top. 

Hopefully this long winded history/science lesson was able to lull you to sleep in order to pass the time until you can handle your "ridiculously.awesome" casted glass reproduction of your favorite movie prop.... Of course there is still one last step in the fabrication of this object.  Flip the page for the final turn in this marathon....

1. Well, Let's See if This Worked...
2. Assessing your Geekiness
3. Extra Credit

Now we get to take a look at the surprise waiting for us inside.  When the kiln and glass have COMPLETELY cooled you can open it up to begin the extraction process.  This is how my setup looked after the big melt.




Carefully remove the glass object from your plaster mold.  I recommend doing this over a plastic bag to contain the debris.  Don't worry about salvaging the mold; rather focus on keeping your casted object in one piece.  If the casted object does not easily release you must begin breaking apart the plaster mold into small pieces. I found it very easy to break apart the mold.  This is the path that I took to free the carbonite me-Han sculpture from its plaster prison.




If you had a surplus of glass like me you will have a column of glass attaching your casted object to the terracotta crucible.  I used my diamond emery board to saw through this column to detach the piece.  You should do this under running water to flush down the tiny glass pieces into the drain.  (Remember our old friend pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis?  You don't want microscopic pieces of glass floating freely through the air....)




There may be some additional pieces of glass attached to the object if your casting mold was not free of air pockets.  If this is the case you can use the diamond emery board (again under running water) to smooth out these parts.  If you are looking for a glossy finish on the surface where you removed these pieces you'll have to get access to a cold working studio and polish out the texture, but this is for another instructable. 

Finally, using a soft bristle brush, soap and water clean up the remaining plaster around the detailed pieces of your object.





Congratulations!  Hopefully you completed this project with a "ridiculously.awesome" casted glass reproduction of your favorite movie prop.  If you are extra-super geeky (and took on the GP challenges) it will also look a little bit like you!  I'm very happy with the way mine turned out (with one exception) and have plans to reproduce other artifacts in the future.  Looking closely you will see that the hands did not come out well.  This is most likely due to the visucosity of the glass being too high at 1600 degrees and a slightly higher temperature may help to address this.  Also, the pockets of air where the hands were could be more easily released if a small hole were drilled through from the backside.  I will experiment further with these techniques moving forward.  If you followed this instructable and made your own glass reproduction please post a link to some pictures in the comments section.

• You will earn two GPs for each modification you correctly identify
• Subtract one GP for each modification you fail to identify
• Subtract one GP for each modification you incorrectly identify
• You will earn one extra GP for each phrase "ridiculously.awesome" you find hidden in the image

1. Smeagol (who needs no introduction)
2. A cherry red Ferrari
3. Girls with guns
4. A big keg o' beer
5. Mr. Darth V. himself
6. A literal fork in the road
7. Yo Duh
8. Old Ben Can o' Beans
9. The "ridiculously.awesome" Ewoks
10. A rainbow sprouting from a unicorn's posterior
11. A Toyota Pious
12. A cloud sprouting from a unicorn's posterior
13. A unicorn
14. Jar Jar Binks (which if the legend is accurate also sprouted for a unicorn's posterior)

Great job!  You're almost done!  Scroll down and follow each step.
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5) Click on THIS_LINK