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iPad Camera Kit

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Creation quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
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  • 5.1k views
  • 9 likes
  • 69 downloads
  • 2 collections

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3D design format
STL Folder details Close
  • H-iPad2-Base.stl
  • H-iPad4-Base.stl
  • V-Left-Shade.stl
  • V-Right-Shade.stl
  • V-iPad2-Base.stl
  • V-iPad2-Hood.stl
  • V-iPad4-Base.stl
  • V-iPad4-Hood.stl

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Publication date 2018-11-23 at 15:40
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Published to Thingiverse on: 2013-09-23 at 18:10
Design number 38558

3D printer file info

3D model description

I designed this iPad camera kit to be used with the Sprint Timer App to record photo finishes at athletic meets. There are both vertical and horizontal mount designs, although Sprint Timer only supports vertical orientation. The kit supports iPad version 2, 3 and 4, and includes a lens hood, fold out screen shade, and tripod mount (with anti-twist pin support).

This design has gone through several iterations. The tripod mount features triangulated braces between the base plate and the device, providing a solid mount, free from flex and twist. The lens hood shades the lens from stray sunlight at the front, and the screen shade makes the screen easier to read in direct sunlight. The iPads version 3 and 4 are slightly thicker than the iPad 2, so there are two versions of the kit to accommodate these differences.

3D printing settings

You need to print a base, hood and left and right shade panels, in either a vertical or horizontal orientation. These parts have tight tolerances for a snug fit, so best to print a bit lean if possible. The inside edged may need a light sand to fit to your iPad, but the idea is for it for fit like a glove, with no play, so there is no chance of your precious iPad falling out.

The shade panels are attached to the hood using a 100mm length of 1.75mm PLA filament as the hinge pin. Dip the filament in boiling water so that it goes soft, and roll it flat on a chopping board. Then insert it through the holes using needle nose pliers. Probably best to do a trial run first with a spare pin to clear out the holes, then join the pieces together. The bases should be printed with a 150 micron layer height to ensure the thread is printed properly. I used 3 shells and 25% infill.

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