UPDATE 05/24/16==================

Created a new handle for the rig, plus cable holder to keep the wire nice and neat to connect the button to the phone. Also updated the lens slider. Overall some improvement but still not happy with the handle, its not very comfortable to hold, plus the lens module is a pain to put together. So those two areas need some redesigning.

Here is the 3rd attempt at creating a custom beastgrip like rig that turns a phone into a camera. This attempt merged the ideas I had from MK1 and MK2 into a nice simple yet very modular design. Going back to an all threaded setup seemed like a better choice since it allows the parts to be very well tighten together to keep things from bouncing around compared to MK2's thumb screw tightening which is much more beastgrip like. Ideally once the rig is setup for a phone, there is no need to really adjust it, so making it tight makes it easier to just slap on the phone and get to work.

MK3, I was finally able to introduce the shutter button mechanics which is really the big selling point for me. MK1 and 2 was just not good enough so I never bothered, but mk3 is finally a very stable rig that I finally took it a step further with a shutter button. Its pretty easy to make one, just need a TRRS mount and a 200ohm resister between pole 4 and ground with the button allowing electricity to flow when you want to take a picture. What this does is tell the phone that you are pressing the up volume button which Vol Up/Down for camera apps trigger's the shutter.

Another feature is being able to creating the rig at what vertical length you need. For my rig i wanted it to be as small as possible BUT at the same time when I get a newer phone that might be bigger I can still adjust the height of the rig for it to fit. So by using through hole standoffs and long M3 screws, I am able to set the overall height of the rig. Length wise, I just bought 3 feet long threaded rods and cut them to the exact length I want the rig to be.

There are many ways to make the vertical rods. You can use long screws and short standoffs, or you can make the screws shorter but the standoffs longer. You can even use different types of standoffs. Another way is to use two screws with a coupler to hold them together. OR just buy a bunch of threaded rods for real cheap and cut to length exactly what you need and just use M3 nuts to tighten it to the 3d printed parts. So how to build it is up to you, depends on what you have at hand Or how you want it to kind of look like.

Needed Parts
Step-Down Adapter Ring 46mm Lens to 37mm (Needed to mount lenses)
http://amzn.to/1P5LpsJ

M3 Nuts
http://amzn.to/229gd8L

M3 Rods

Regular steel, very cheap and what I used on the prototype. With 50 cents a rod, you can pretty much just use this and a mini hacksaw or dremel to cut the lengths of both horizontal and vertical screws. I am also posting stronger grade rods if you want a more solid feel but it'll cost you a bit more.

https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-threaded-rod-steel-m3-05x3-ft-m203000301000/i/G9804453/

https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-threaded-rod-a2-ss-m3-05x1m-m510700301000/i/G9463072/

https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-threaded-rod-a4-ss-m3-05x3-ft-150794/i/G9051165/

Buttons
http://amzn.to/1Xlng7o
http://amzn.to/1Xlniwb
http://amzn.to/1Xlnz1V

4 Pole Coiled Headphone cable
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3ft-4-Pole-Spring-Coiled-3-5mm-Aux-Cable-w-Mic-Gold-Stereo-Audio-Auxiliary-Cord-/151917166186?hash=item235ef7fe6a:g:BXYAAOSwP~tW4zDW

TRRS Jack (I used an SMD i had, but you can probably use something else as long as its TRRS). Also just grab a 200ohm resister.
http://amzn.to/1XloHTm

Possible screws to use
M3 x 80mm screws
http://amzn.to/1pDCw4S

M3 x 70mm screws
http://amzn.to/1Xll5AT

M3 x 60mm screws
http://amzn.to/1Xllao4

Different Standoffs you can use

M3 x 6mm standoff
http://amzn.to/1P5Leh1

M3 X 40mm standoff
http://amzn.to/1XllByL

Round Standoff, Stainless Steel 45mm
http://amzn.to/1P5LD33