Customizable Waterproof Pill Box

This is a waterproof pill container with a 7-day compartmented storage tray. The lid is a bayonet fixture with approximately 1/8th turn to close it.

The design is parameterized in Fusion 360, so the diameter and length can be adjusted easily, along with the number of compartments in the tray. The adjustable parameters are listed in the attached image.

The seal needs to be printed in TPU or a similar flexible material.

I printed this with three perimeters, and submerged it under 10cm of water for 10 minutes, without any leakage. If you are going to rely on this to be waterproof, you may want to seal the surface, and you should certainly test it. I suggest using food safe filament if you are going to use it to store pills.

Printing:
No supports are required, overhangs are moderate, there's no bridging. Layer height is critical in the region of the interlocking surfaces of bayonet mechanism. I suggest using variable layer height to minimize the layer height in that region. It is less than 2mm of vertical height, so it has little affect on the overall print time. I got excellent results at 0.08mm in this region, and good results at 0.13mm layers.

The tube's bottom surface (as printed) forms part of the seal, if your bed is not smooth and level, you will not get a good seal, and you may need to polish the surface by hand. I printed on PEI, and it did not require any post processing.

Printing the o-ring:
I used TPU with 3 perimeters, with plenty of top and bottom layers, and 30% infill. Make sure you are not under-extruding, or water could leak through the seal itself. With my extruder I need to use 120% extrusion multiplier for soft TPU. It needs to be fairly soft material, I found both Amazon Basics TPU and eSUN eLastic 85A TPE work well. I found SainSmart TPU too hard.

After Printing:
The closure mechanism will be stiff the first few times it is operated. You may find it useful to assemble it first with just the Seal inside the Ring of the lid (see diagram), and open and close it a few dozen times to loosen the mechanism up. Then add the Cap component into the lid, once the mechanism has loosened up.

It you print with a fat layer height, you may need to tidy up the interlocking surfaces by hand before it will close properly.