WOWGO 3 eskate pneumatic tire AT conversion kit flashlight mount bashguard tail light mudguard hub motor adapter skateboard longboard

Tired of bumps and discomfort with hub motors on my wowgo 3. Hubs made by rumpsvett https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3746673. Rumpsvett also made other types of hub adapters so check him out. Put the other stuff together with some templates from other people's files in fusion 360 (free). I later made my name written (hidden) inside the mudguards and extruded on top of the hub wheel cover – tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zw2rgYm6kAk

6'' Tire conversion req: FRONT - 2 full wheels + 1 long truck, bearings (4), printed spacers (2), printed bearing adapter (4)
BACK - 2 tire+tube, ABS filament to print 2 hub adapters and 2 rims (and sand paper, file, printed hammer tool? If needed), 5x2 M4 screws approx 40mm long.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33024348739.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.57fe1481sCV7hs&algo_pvid=8449ffa3-38f2-4337-8775-8ed5ef3abb5c&algo_expid=8449ffa3-38f2-4337-8775-8ed5ef3abb5c5&btsid=0bb0622c16029191825824761e77af&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
https://trampaboards.com/9525mm-hardened--hollowed-steel-axle-skate-truck-p-53.html
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GT82D7P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: If you have long screws and you screw them in too tight the motor wont spin and it will seem that your motor is locked! Just unscrew the M4 screw and no damage will have happened. Spin the wheel with your hand before you ride it. GET bearings from trampa if you're getting their truck too and maybe their rim as well and then only get 4 tire+tube from Aliex
(the Aliex rims are 8mm – standard skateboard but the trampa truck is 9.525mm). This way you won't need to 3d print the spacer and buy those PGN bearings separately to fit their truck and wont need to print the bearing adapter. The bearings I bought didn’t fit the Aliex rims (was a little loose) so I printed the adapter. The aliex rims are very tight but you can unscrew all of it and remove the bearings (its just tight). The 5 hub guiding lines are very tight (which is good) so print the hammer tool and place it on then hammer onto the hammer tool. The holes on the hub adapter are a tad bit to the right so I suggest using a file or drill to make a little more room. Other than that the hubs work perfectly. Don’t need nut for these 10 screws, they go into the hole of the black wheel cover on stock board. I can finally relax with most cracks and bumps in the road! My legs feel much better after. I was getting almost 20km range with 90mm stock wheels and 6ah battery on mode 3. Now im in turbo and getting 10km range on inclined roads. Torque will very noticeably decrease but I can still go up all the inclines in my area with 15-20km/hr speed. You wont be able to see speed on remote accurately. Hubs will get hotter than normal but I think its ok. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4fwPp-YySs Meepo 6inch conversion by 3DF and hub sleeve idea from Marlon were my inspiration for this. Thanks to 3DF, rumpsvett, MarlonLovesWheels, and others for stls and inspiration.

Headlight + handle req: ABS filament to print holder, 2 flashlights, 2 Samsung 18650 batteries, 2 M4 screw + nut (15mm long approx.), flexible orange band for handle.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01J8B219O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: there is enough clearance between the truck and flashlight but on the most extreme turn the flashlight body just slightly touches the front truck. I don’t think it’s a big deal, but it would be if the flashlight was any closer. You can still remove the flashlight battery without taking it off the mount. The mount is an exact fit to the narrowest area of the flashlight 26.4mm. Push the screw area apart slightly to shove the flashlight till it reaches the narrowest part (take of bottom battery cover), even though it’s a tight fit, still get the m4 screws. I got some random orange rubber band like the ones used in hospitals to compress vein before drawing blood. Held 3 together and twisted then knot in the front. Flashlight mount makes a great space to put the handle band no issues of strength. Twisting creates tension to elevate the band so it rests slightly above the grip tape to make it easier to grab. 2 battery bought separately from flashlight (wasn’t included).

Tail light and bash guard: printed tail light mount, printed bashguard, 2 m4 scew approx. 15mm long + 2 nuts, tail light.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TRYL56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: I noticed that the black circle for mounting the light (that came with it) came a little lose (the screw that connects them) after a ride. It may have been from before or from the vibrations. I put some super glue. Don’t ever need to undo that screw because you slide the whole light out of the printed mount so the black circle doesn’t need to come off the light.

Mudguard – just print it – it’s the same file for both sides. You may have to play around with rotating the nut till you can tighten the nut on the front truck with the mudguard positioned behind the wheel but still loose enough that you can spin the front wheel. Hold the mudguard close to the nut when trying to tighten the nut onto the front truck. The mudguard is slightly loose so you can wiggle it up/down (approx. 10 degree rotation) a little without rotating the nut but this is intentional and works well.

Waterproofing: Corrosion X + Silicone sealant around battery and ESC case
If you don’t think corrosion x can make your board waterproof then watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4z8QMgTEA4 I sprayed it everywhere in every connector (cut zipties and put new ones after). Tried to spray into hubs as well. Been in rain and puddles several times no problems. Corrosion x is to prevent damage. Sealant is to keep water out of the cases. Corrosion x is expensive but you wont need much of a small can and its worth it imo https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-90104-Heavy-Duty-12-Ounce-Aerosol/dp/B0009H1AMG/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_1/138-1927601-4369460?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009H1AMG&pd_rd_r=593d69b3-2b61-4176-8586-468fdd8183c0&pd_rd_w=L8gNn&pd_rd_wg=1N0qn&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=CY2VZ5QERZR5M87Y05XF&psc=1&refRID=CY2VZ5QERZR5M87Y05XF

Underboard lights: Bluetooth and control with your phone! Haven’t received them yet but I had other poor quality lights that got damaged in the water so im hoping these are as advertised. I ordered the 2 x 50cm to put on each side of the underboard https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000052555047.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.336e4c4dTehigc

THIS IS NOT SAFE AND HAS NOT BEEN TESTED EXTENSIVELY. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RECREATE. IM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE OR INJURY. Tested for a week now, ill update down the line on reddit if you want and maybe a video of me riding too?

This took me a lot of time, trail and error, and frustration to figure out. btc: bc1q9dw6rawxljta9a9v05m6gtaghrx9lkataa3me7

1000 perimeters (fully solid print), auto generated support material from prusa slicer
0.2mm layer height
150mm/s perimeters, make top infill <100mm/s for mudguard (had issues printing top part (away from screw holder)
used glue stick for bed adhesion and enclosure
prusa mk3s
ABS from botfeeder