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Formula Style Sim Racing Wheel

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Creation quality: 5.0/5 (2 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

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  • 389 downloads
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License
3D design format
F3D and STL Folder details Close
  • G27_F1_Back_Extended.stl
  • G27_F1_Expanded_v2.f3d
  • G27_F1_Face_10-Button.stl
  • G27_F1_Face_Extended.stl
  • Left_Grip.stl
  • Right_Grip.stl

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Publication date 2021-02-24 at 05:13
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Published to Thingiverse on: 2020-05-28 at 19:39
Design number 310293

PandaKopter

3D printer file info

3D model description

Formula Style Sim Racing Wheel
A remix of an F1 style steering wheel for the G27 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3023908). I wanted a little more functionality in sim races with my G27. The remix adds an additional 9 buttons and space inside the wheel to put a joystick encoder. That does mean you'll have a separate wire for your wheel in most cases, but you can try fins a wireless encoder or maybe dismantle a controller.

Wheel Parts
Most parts for the build were sourced from Ali Express with a few bits like nuts and bolts, bought locally For this project you will need:
* 1x USB Joystick Encoder
* 12x 12mm momentary push buttons
* 12x M3*30mm bolts
* 12x M3 nylon lock nuts
* Heat shrink tubing

Assembly guide by AMStudio. It's not exactly the same design and procedure, but it can definitely be followed as a guide.

Shifters
Magnetic shifters from AMStudio were used. Parts for one set of shifters:
* 4x 8*5mm round neodymium magnets
* 2x Micro lever switch

Assembly video by AMStudio

Mounting
Mounting the was done with RamjetX Logitech G25/G27/G29 70mm Hub Adaptor Kit (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2625316) and AMStudio QR Base and 70mm Adaptor. I would suggest using the Logitech Low Profile Boss Adaptor from AMStudio if you want the fit to look a bit better.
Parts for those:
* 1x 34.9mm seat post clamp
* A bunch of M5 nuts and bolts (countersunk bolts were used inside the steering wheel)

Assembly video by AMStudio

A quick release seat post clamp could be used, but the combination of these three mountings didn't leave enough space behind the wheel to use one, so a clamp that uses just a hex wrench will do. Other quick release mechanisms could definitely be found/used, but this is probably the cheapest, easiest, and lightest ones to use.

Wiring
Use the cables from the joystick encoder to wire up the buttons. I cut off the metal pins off of one side, leaving the plug on the other side. Solder the wires to the buttons. I found this a lot easier to do once the buttons were mounted to the face plate.

For the shifters, solder the wires to the common and normally open (NO) pin.

So joystick encoder allows for 12 buttons and a joystick. The wheel design has a total of 14 buttons... oops. Out of necessity (or brilliance, up to you), four buttons (the white and blue buttons at the bottom) were wired up to act as a joystick. you can use the included cable for the joystick and splice a few more wires to the common (left most pin) to reach all the buttons. I used jumper wires because I didn't of using the included wire earlier... oops again.

Edit I tried the wheel with Assetto Corsa Competizione and the buttons bound to the hat switch would not bind in game. Because of this, I rebound two of those buttons and completely removed the other two and printed a new 10-button face plate (file has been added).

Tools used
* File
* Desoldering pump (for when, not if, I make a mistake)
* Heat gun/lighter
* Screwdriver with various bits (hex, philips, and flat head bits)
* Super glue
* Soldering iron

I've included the F3D file so the base and face plate can be edited as you like. Enjoy!

I haven't actually finished the build yet, just printing the final few parts (the mounts), then I'll edit the thing and post pictures.

3D printing settings

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