The demonic katana weided by the infamous Super Ninja Genshin in the video game Ninja Gaiden 2 (xbox 360)

This cosplay worthy katana is 41 inches long when fully assembled.

It is recommended to print in ABS and assemble using acetone chemical welding to ensure a strong final product.

Assembly is aided by the usage of quarter inch wooden dowels to give the blade and handle strength as well as shorter sections of 1/8th inch dowels to help alignment during construction.

A stencil image is provided to help get the exact symbols on the blade and handle sections.

The handle is designed to be wrapped with actual cord. I used black silk "ito" for mine. Examples: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=black+ito+silk&crid=2J1B0Y8B73P4W&sprefix=black+ito+silk%2Caps%2C161&ref=nb_sb_noss

The sockets in the handle are intended for 2 20mm half dome cabochons. If you do a traditional "Tsuka-maki" style of handle wrapping, there will be space for 12mm cabochon gemstones as well. You can print and paint your own gems but I got mine off of etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/715888325/12mm-natural-white-jade-gemstone?ref=yr_purchases though the seller no longer offers the 20mm variety

=== Full assembly guide with painting tips ===

--- Blade ---
First, fully sand and assemble all 5 parts of the blade with the help of a 1/4 inch wooden dowel as well as a few short 1/8 inch dowel segments to help with alignment. Mask off the bottom of where the blade parts will connect with the handle. Prime with sandable filler primer and let cure. Then, prime again in matte black.

Mask off all areas except the edge of the blade as designated by the stencil. Then, paint the stencil with Rustoleum Metallic Silver spray paint. Let cure fully.

Remove the masking tape to reveal the black underneath.

Now, apply graphite powder to the black areas of the blade and buff them fully until very little comes off. The graphite will not stick to the metallic paint.

Now, apply the symbols by transfering them to masking tape, then placing them on the blade. See my section on symbol transfer below.

Once the sybmol stencils are on the blade, mask off all other areas on the blade except the stencils. Then prime the symbols and let dry. Once dry, paint in a bright red color. I used Rustolleum Apple Red.

After this is done, paint just the "habaki" area with Rustolleum Hammered Mettalic Bronze.

--- Guard ---

First, assemble both halves of the guard. Keep in mind they are both slightly different. Mask off both sides where the blade and handle will connect with the guard.

Sand and prime as per usual.

For the guard colors, I simply used dark and lighter grays to give it a worn metal look. Apply the dark first, then come in with the lighter grays and dab it on selectively. Finish with a lighter gray to just highlight the edges.

--- Handle ---

Assemble the handle with the aid of several dowels. Mask the area where the guard will connect.

The part of the handle where the cord will go is first painted with a light gray. Then, using the rounded end of a paintbrush handle, apply dabs of white paint overlapping each other to create small circles of white. This mimics the look of "samegawa" or ray skin which is what katana handles are traditionally wrapped in. Just paint the sides where the paint will show through after the wrap. No need to paint 100% of it.

The elevated areas of the handle are done in Rustolleum Hammered Silver spray paint. Then mask the swirly symbols from the stencil; prime then paint in black.

Wrap the handle with your chosen cord. I tried to follow a guide for "Tsuka-maki" but I'm not very good at it. Instead of doing a fancy knot for the end of the cord I just shoved it back under the wrapped sections.

Apply the printed gems or cabochons as a last step.

Finally, assemble the entire blade, being careful not to get any ABS slurry on your nice paint job. Let cure fully before pretending to be a ninja!

=== Symbol Transfer ===

The best way to transfer symbols I found:

1. Print out the stencils making sure it is 100% scale.

2. Cut out and assemble the blade pieces into one long piece.

3. Using a sharp xacto knife, cut out the parts of the blade stencil.

4. Lay down some masking tape on a craft cutting mat.

5. Tape down the stencil over the masking tape.

6. With a pen, copy the shape of the stencil to the masking tape.

7. With a sharp blade, carefully cut out the stencil and peel away any unwanted tape.

8. To easily transfer the stencil without ruining it, lay a second piece of masking tape down on top of the first.

9. Then peel off both pieces from the mat slowly, using an xacto knife to make sure everything comes of.

10. Apply the stencil to the part of the sword you are working on.

11. Then, carefully peel off the top piece of masking tape.

12. To prevent paint from getting under the tape, go over it a few times with your fingernails or the rounded edge of an xacto blade handle. Be careful not to scratch any existing paint