As those who know, there is a certain AT case within the retro computer community that seems to have some interest surrounding it. That case would be the “Darth Vader” style case. It features its signature vents in the front, as well as a toggle DPST switch. Some feature a LCD frequency display.
What I have designed here is a kit to convert a fitting AT style case into this more desirable style. The kit comes with main files necessary to do so. Namely, the front panel itself, drive bay covers, buttons as well as a graphic for the front. You will reuse the buttons, LED’s, as well as the key-lock and LCD frequency display.
I designed this part around a case that I got locally. Because of this, I absolutely cannot guarantee that this will be a fit for all styles of baby AT cases. I have provided images with measurements to check your case for fitment before purchasing the files. The measurements are in millimeters. Make sure these align with the measurements of your existing front panel. This will include the bay dimensions and height positioning, length and height, as well as mounting points of the panel (screw points). You will also be able to check the key lock for fitment.
The LCD frequency display model I have is the model “K-568”. This case has been designed to support it, with 25x19mm dimensions. If you have no display or a different one, or wish to use something like an OLED, you may have to modify either the design or the final product to accommodate. You could also modify the graphic for the front to include no display if you so choose. It uses the standard square PC power switches for the buttons.
The original design of the case contains a graphic around the reset/turbo etc area. I have also supplied one of these. It mimics the old case look. I have not installed that on my personal machine, but there is both an .ai file as well as an .svg file supplied. These files are made to 0 tolerance, so you will need to adjust when you manufacture. I used a Cricut machine to cut mine out with the design you see on the front, with 0.5mm spacing on each side. This front panel accommodates both either a 3mm round LED or a square style LED. There are two types of graphics files depending on what LED type you use.
I used a large format Anycubic Chiron 3D printer to print the panel. I suggest you print it face up with supports. For the bay covers, I suggest you print them standing up with supports. It may use more material, but will yield a stronger print versus printing them face down. If you have a smaller machine and are fine with splitting the model for printing then rejoining when complete, that works too provided the dimensions are accurate. Depending on tolerance, you may need to spend some time to make the buttons fit on the switches.
Critical: If you intend to dive into this project, bear in mind it is just that. A project. It may not fit 100% perfect fresh off the printer after removing supports. Expect to do a bit of filing to get things fitting to your satisfaction. Assembly of this panel is self explanatory if you have taken apart your old one. You will have to figure out a way to wire the power switch and make any modifications to your system to accommodate. Regarding the bay covers, if fit is not optimal, you may need to file around the back until you are satisfied. The legs of the power switch may also hit the metal of your case if they are not bent to fit or if there is no space cut in the case to allow for the legs.
If you do not have a power switch and need one to complete the project, the model of mine is the “SOLTEAM BR21”.
Thank you for reading!