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Airsoft 40mm Shower Shell Speed Loader

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Creation quality: 5.0/5 (2 votes)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.

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  • 43 downloads

License
3D design format
STL and ZIP Folder details Close
  • 40mm_120rnd_LT_SpeedLoader.zip
    • 40mm_CombinedShell/CombinedInner-Outer_FineNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_CombinedShell/Funnel_FineNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_CombinedShell/Spine1_LargeNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_CombinedShell/Spine2_LargeNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_Speedloader_Display.stl
    • 40mm_SpeedLoader_MultiPart/ConnectingBar1_LargeNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_SpeedLoader_MultiPart/ConnectingBar2_LargeNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_SpeedLoader_MultiPart/Funnel_Top_FineNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_SpeedLoader_MultiPart/InnerShell_FineNozzle.stl
    • 40mm_SpeedLoader_MultiPart/OuterShell_GreaterTollerance.stl
    • ExampleAssembly.avi
    • Plunger/Plunger_LargeNozzle.stl
    • Plunger/PlungerTop_LargeNozzle.stl
    • Plunger_MultiPart/Dissasembled Plunger_head.stl
    • Plunger_MultiPart/Dissasembled Plunger_Leg.stl
  • 40mm_Speedloader_Display.stl

Learn more about the formats

Publication date 2023-08-01 at 20:29
Design number 1357298

3D printer file info

3D model description

Airsoft shower shell designed for 120 round Lancer Tactical Shower shell. Not sure if this will fit other brands of shower shells , but any with the same diameter of tubes should work. Fits 12 bbs in each tube of the speed loader. This will work for any lancer tactical height, you will just spill some more bbs removing the speed loader.
As the tubes have fine walls, I had to use a 0.2 nozzle. Because 0.2 nozzles can take so long to print even at the max 0.16mm layer height, there is a version of this speed loader with only the bare minimum printed with a 0.2 nozzle with all supporting structures able to be printed separately with a larger nozzle, so overall print time is much less.

Recommend assembly and use:
See animation in folder for assembly help.
Use JB plastic weld or other adhesive to glue the 2 support bars into the top funnel. Use the same adhesive to attach the top of the plunger to the plunger, and the inner shell in the outer shell with the curved end facing the bottom; ensure that no adhesive leaks in to the path of the bbs.

How I use it: Slide lower body onto the top of the 40mm. Rotate to ensure that the feeding tubes of the loader do not line up with the tubes of the 40mm grenade. Attach the funnel. Slowly pour bbs around the tubes, gently shaking every so often to ensure no blockages and and each tube has access to bbs. Once the funnel seems full, push bbs around with a finger to ensure that all 12 tubes are full and a tube isn't blocked. Remove the top funnel, and remove any bbs not in the loading tubes by brushing with a finger, recommended over something to recover any excess bbs*. Slowly rotate the lower body until bbs start to fall, letting you know the loader and the grenade are properly lined up. Use plunger to push all bbs into grenade.
Remove the loader, recommended over something to recover any excess bbs*.
Repeat if not fully loaded.
*I would not recommend to reuse any bbs in this process for regular gun use, as they could be scuffed from the loader. They should be perfectly fine for use by a shower shell or other non gun purposes.

3D printing settings

Material: PLA+

Inner shell and funnel: maximum 0.2mm nozzle at 0.12-0.16 layer height; rotated correctly no supports are needed. (See reference stl to ensure proper orientation). Recommend at least 50% infill.

Outer shell/connecting bars: maximum tested 1.0mm nozzle, so anything between 0.2mm and 1.0mm. Recommend tree supports for outer shell connecting bar slots as they are easier to remove than standard supports while providing enough overhang support. Recommend at least 50% infill, I've printed at 85% and it seems to be extremely durable.

Plunger: same as outer shell/connecting bars, except for possible changes for the tall thin stalks. Ensure your printer is level, stable, but not too stiff to cause shaking of the nozzle or print; highly recommend using an enclosure for your printer.

If you've never calibrated for tall thin objects, here are some recommendations: I highly recommend turning down acceleration and jerk at least 50% of standard printing, and decrease the print speed to ~75% of standard printing. About 50% of the way through the print reduce speed to 50%, and at 75% reduce speed to 25% for the rest of the print. Recommend setting the bed to 60Β°C. Recommend extruder at 200Β°C, and increase by 5Β°C at the 50% mark and another 5Β°C at the 75% mark to compensate for the lack of warm air from the print bed.

If you are having issues or just don't want to attempt it, I have also included a speed loader head with a single spine you can print on its side with supports and glue in. Depending on supports you may need to clean up the spines for optimal function. Make sure to print the the head on a 0.6mm nozzle or smaller so all slots have complete walls.

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