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IG-88 LAMP

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3D design format
STL and ZIP Folder details Close
  • IG - 88 F LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 A LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 A.stl
  • IG-88 B LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 B.stl
  • IG-88 C LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 C.stl
  • IG-88 D LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 D.stl
  • IG-88 E LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 E.stl
  • IG-88 F.stl
  • IG-88 G LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 G.stl
  • IG-88 H LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 H.stl
  • IG-88 I LAMP.stl
  • IG-88 I.stl
  • IG-88 LAMP.zip
    • IG - 88 F LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 A LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 B LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 C LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 D LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 E LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 G LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 H LAMP.stl
    • IG-88 I LAMP.stl
  • IG-88.zip
    • IG-88 A.stl
    • IG-88 B.stl
    • IG-88 C.stl
    • IG-88 D.stl
    • IG-88 E.stl
    • IG-88 F.stl
    • IG-88 G.stl
    • IG-88 H.stl
    • IG-88 I.stl

Learn more about the formats
Publication date 2023-08-16 at 10:57
Design number 1389284
xmornavarro

xmornavarro

3D printer file info

3D model description

It is the head in real size of the bounty hunter robot in its first version corresponding to Star Wars episode V. I needed a table lamp to give some atmosphere and its elongated shape is perfect for this intention, although during its design I have decided to offer 2 different versions depending on whether you want it as a decorative head or a lamp.

Both versions have 2 custom stands reminiscent of the robot's chest detonator. One is tabletop and the other wall-mounted.

The IG 88 lamp version is designed to place a light bulb or red led device inside, with its lower holes to pass power cables through. The light rays will come out through all its holes (especially through the upper one oriented to the ceiling).

The design is divided into several parts that are assembled and which in turn are rotatable. Give it the look you like best.

I have uploaded part of the process from printing to the final paint and dirt finish. This lamp is unique and very original. Give a new look to your room and impress all friends.

3D printing settings

Personally I have printed it in PLA with 0.4 nozzle. I recommend a minimum of 3 walls , 8% infill and a thin wall thickness of 0.16 (so you don't have to sand the finish too much).

Make 2 part G prints and 6 part H prints (to fill the head holes according to the authentic IG-88 design).

For the finish I sanded it to a smooth surface almost like metal, it all depends on the worn look you want to achieve. Then one coat of primer, one coat of black acrylic spray and a final coat of aluminum type.

In the dirtying stage I used black and dark brown acrylic paint applied by brush in the areas that I think are more prone to rust and , before it dries , apply spray glass cleaner, letting the streams fall and drying with a dirty rag.

The final result depends very much on the look you want to achieve. Either newer or more worn / rusty and dirty ( which that was my choice ).

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