Competition Pro Replica

A dimensionally accurate replica of the Competiton Pro Joystick using Sanwa JLF parts and Standard Arcade Buttons.

Perhaps one of the most robust and iconic joysticks of its time, the Competition Pro and its many models and derivatives remain popular in the vintage computing scene. Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever and original Competition Pro joysticks are nearing 30-40 years old, often succumbing to brittle plastics, dried rubber bad cables and dodgy microswitches, not to mention the ever-climbing price of joysticks that remain in a working state.

So what if we could make new ones? This is a question many have asked and others have answered in the form of lookalike joysticks such as the "Frog" joystick (3d printed) and the Arcade R (commercial product) that use commodity Arcade Parts for input. These are quality options in their own right but they aren't very faithful to the original design in terms of shape and feel.

That's where my replica comes in. By using the Sanwa Parts in an unconventional manner and with the help of some clever design, I have managed to create a Joystick that near perfectly matches the external dimensions of a real Competition Pro and can get pretty close to the feel.

To make this Joystick you'll need a 3d printer, a Sanwa JLF (or clone), A BatTop stick handle, Two 30mm arcade buttons, Six 12mm m3 screws and Four m3 screws from 15-20mm, a USB 3.0 cable and a DB-9 connector.

Simply disassemble the JLF, and install its components in the Stick Compartment the same way they go into the stock JLF frame. You will then need to desolder the 5-pin connector from the JLF Switch Board and bolt the microswitches onto the stick compartment in the same orientation as the photo using the Four 12m screws. If you really want to, you can use standalone microswitches but you'll need four extra screws (8 holes are provided for this scenario). After this is complete you can push the Stick Compartment into the top shell.

You should be able to figure out the rest of the reassembly on your own, the connector is held together with the Two 12mm screws you should have left over, and the Two shell halves are held together by the Four 15-20mm bolts (these do need to be socket head to fit the holes) I also recommend using some hot glue to hold the DB-9 connector in place. I also recommend wrapping the USB cable around the Screw Posts for some strain relief.

Not much to be said in terms of print settings. The only part that needs support is the Stick Compartment. If you need support for anything else you're doing it wrong. I'd recommend using Cura's make overhang printable setting for the two shell halves because it'll help the chamfer print a lot cleaner. It's also worth mentioning that by virtue of being based around Sanwa Parts, you can substitute Stronger/Weaker springs or Bigger and Smaller Actuators meant for the Sanwa JLF so that you can fine-tune the feel of this Joystick.

I have decided to include the CAD source in this Upload. This Joystick is fairly basic and I'd like to see what people can come up with by using it as a base. Third Button? Detachable Cable? Go wild :)