N Scale Straight Track Jig and Crosstie Cutter and Gapping Tools. Hand Made Model Train Tracks by Socrates

11-3-2024 Added 40cm diagonal print Max for a 30x30cm bed straight jig and tiebed. Laying tracks once again!

Covid lockdown was the trigger for my hand building a N Scale Model Train. When I started to hand build my N scale model train layout, my plan was to use aluminum jigs. In the process of making those jigs the middle step was 3D printed test jigs. They are no where near as strong vs. the heat of a soldering iron as aluminum but they did the trick for my needs. If you have a small tip on your soldering iron and a steady, fast hand, these jigs last for many pieces. Don't hold the iron against the rails longer than needed or the plastic will melt. Removing the piece can then require cutting the melted plastic from the rails. I use a small flat screwdriver to sneak under some of the crossties and then to push it deeper to leverage out the piece. Do this slowly as you can damage the piece and you have already spent a great deal of time to get this far, so take some extra time to slowly remove the piece.

All the jigs were built for Micro-Engineering N Scale code 55 rails. http://www.microengineering.com/MicroEngineeringPriceListNovember2022.pdf

To make the crossties the Cutter and Gapper Tool and Straight Jig itself are designed to work with Fast Tracks CopperHead ties. https://www.handlaidtrack.com/ch-n-c However, if your copper ties fit the slots any maker will do.

Three Straight Track jigs are included. A 29cm without notched ends. Another 29cm with notched ends which help offset the rail ends by one crosstie on one rail vs the other. This makes a stronger joint. One jig is about 18cm for smaller printers. Small clamps and a set of blocks are included to hold the rails in place while soldering them. The blocks are slightly thicker with the mark on the side and even thicker with two marks and go between the rails and the clamps.

There are nine different lengths of tiebeds included between 4.5cm and 27.4cm and end in the middle of a five tie section. Use a contact cement to glue the track skeleton to the beds.

The copper PCB cross tie cutting and gapping tool works for straight and curved tracks. This will form 20 copper PCB board cross ties to the same length and with the gap in the middle all at once. This is designed for Fast Tracks PCB ties but should work for other brands such as Cloverleaf, but I have not had the opportunity to test them.

Snip off seven full length Crossover Tie PCB pieces and clean up the snipped end and then slip the tie into the tool and snip to length. Turn the tie around and put the other clean end into the next slot and snip to length. Snip the tiny piece off the end and continue until the tool is full or you have enough for your intended use. The tool works for one or twenty the same. Next file the ends all at once quickly with your rail file as the PCB files easy and so does the 3D printed plastic. Then attach the outer case and use a triangle file to file the gap in all the ties at once. You can see with a magnifying glass if the ties are well gapped. Double check for shorts with a continuity tester on a volt meter and avoid having to search for a short later on. Then use a small metal brush to safely clean off the dust as it can be fiberglass. File the flat gapped copper face just a little bit to make them shine just before putting in the jig and soldering them to the rails. Always use the three triangle track gauges when hand building my tracks to ensure they are in gauge. https://www.handlaidtrack.com/trifecta-n as well as the NMRA N scale gauge https://www.handlaidtrack.com/tl-0017.

Use the clamps and blocks to hold the rails in place, triple check the triangle gauges are in place and holding the rails in proper gauge and solder one side and then the other. Use a small flat screwdriver to sneak under some of the crossties to slowly remove one side. If you didn't melt the jig the piece should pop out. If it did melt use a knife to remove any blocking the track.

You can attach the feeder wires to the bottom of the rails through the tiebed for the cleanest look. Use a contact cement applied to both the rails and tiebed. Let dry and combine. If needed to remove, you can put the piece on the printer heated bed for a bit, then the old tiebed should peel off. Scrap away the glue and attach a new tiebed if needed.

Welcome to the wonderful rewarding world of Hand Laid Tracks!

Most of these were printed at 0.16mm layer height. Fairly simple prints. PLA Plus was sufficient tough enough for me if I'm fairly quick with the soldering iron.