Dimensions
The main case
- height: 146mm + logo (approx 5mm)
- length: 384mm + hinges (approx 2Γ9.2mm)
- depth: 232mm + latches (approx 2Γ17mm)
Vertical walls and upper lid are 5mm thick. Bottom is 35mm thick, it also serves as a token palette for all common stuff.
A player box
height: 96mm (including lid)
width (along case's length): 62mm
length (along case's depth): 220mm
Printing and assembly
Everything is printed with 0.4 nozzle, with no supports and almost everything with 0.2 layer.
Also used a textured bed cover for nice looking surface (all the lids are being printed upside down)
Fasteners needed:
- 3 M6x20 SHCS (case bottom assembly)
- 3 M6 heat-insert nuts (case bottom assembly)
- 16 M3x6 FHCS (latches mount)
- 16 M3 heat-insert nuts (latches mount)
- 4 M3x40 SHCS (lid hinge axes)
Player boxes
Each player box consists of three parts: individual lid with a logo, race-specific token palette in the middle and a race-specific box for cards and units.
Walls are thin, so will be covered by perimeters. The infill for token palette can be relatively small, I used 13% gyroid.
Lid is kept on the box with 8 small 3Γ2 round magnets, so you will need 48 of them in total. I'm not a fan of glue so magnet holes doesn't have any clearance. Magnets should be carefully pressed into with a vice.
The main case
Case's length is almost 400mm, most probably too big for the majority of home printers. So I've designed it to print in half for future assembly. Bottom will be held by three M6Γ20 socket head bolts and corresponding heat-insert nuts. It has indexing shapes near bolts and along vertical walls to make the alignment simpler.
Case parts are big and tall, they tend to unstick from the bed. Do your best for bed adhesion. Wash it, level, calibrate Z-offset and EM.
Case is printed with 4 perimeters 5 top/bottom solid layers and 23% infill. Here you can find your own balance between case weight, plastic usage, printing time and case strength.
Bottom of the case actually doesn't need so much infill so first 35mm I've printed with 5.5% infill. Pay attention to the adding anchored dense layers to avoid artifacts within bottoms of inner shells. In SuperSlicer important settings are:
- Supporting dense layer: enabled, algorithm: Automatic unless full
- Anchor solid infill by X mm: 5mm
Check out "well anchored" image VS "in-air dense layer" that I've got with default settings. It rolls upwards, solids until next layer and crashes everything.
The logo
Logo is the only place where I used thinner layers: 0.05 for everything higher than 5mm -- to make the visible part smoother. Also the letter C from "Craft" has quite a gentle slope, so it's better to print it with 100% infill or more perimeters to avoid holes on the top surface.
Logo model has no clearance. The reason for that are long sharp corners, e.g. in letter B in "board". Offsetting sharp corners will result into a quite noticeable hole at the corner point. So it's much better to print the original size and then sharpen the corner with a sanding paper. Actually only several small letters needs it.
Than letters can be pressed into the lid. It would be nice to press them with a vice, but lid is to big. So I've put it upside up onto a big flat wooden bar and used a small hammer through a soft piece of wood. Do not hammer the plastic parts!
The tricky O letter The O letter from "board" has a hole. So the corresponding lid part is not attached to the lid. I've added small built-in supports to print together. Remove the inner part, clear supports, press it into the O-letter and then press them together to the lid.
Hinges
Hinges are simple. They are being printed integrated with a box. You will need four M3x40 socket head bolts as axes. Screwed directly into plastic, do not over-tighten. Check that lid parts move freely.
Latches
I haven't designed the latch myself. I've found one that suites very well, but I can't attach STL as a subject of my commercial project. This toggle latch (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4608459) by syzguru11 (https://www.thingiverse.com/syzguru11/designs) perfectly fits. The only modification you need is to split upper part into two -- one for each halves of the lid.
Latch is being mounted with M3x6 flat head screws and corresponding heat-insert nuts. Latch mount plate is attached to photos. But holes are printed vertically, nuts are inserted not ideally. Most probably it's worth print several versions of the latch with slightly different holes position to find a ideal. Bottom part should slightly press the walls together and closed latch should slightly press the lid. I've printed several until get the right tension.