DOOKU LIGHTSABER XENOCORE/RGB CORE COMPATIBLE

Several things you need to know about this sword.

1: It is only compatible with RGB electronics, it is not suitable for a pixel blade.

2: You will need to cut the chassis of your electronics in half as shown in the photos.

3: Even with a blocked screw do not plan to use it for the duel.

4: You will lose some 15% brightness due to the shape of the blade.

If despite this you are still motivated, we move on.

In itself everything is very simple to set up but I decline all responsibility for the deterioration of your electronics.

Be careful and everything will be fine.

Nothing special about printing. Print in position as in the photos, support 70°, infill 30% minimum. To cut your RGB chassis, dismantle the cover of the LED and the buttons, protect the cables well, then cut above the battery as in the photos, then reassemble the cover.

For the insertion of the frame in the saber start with the upper part with the buttons. Screw, then insert the lower part as far as possible but with delicacy so as not to damage your PCB. To finish, assemble the two parts of the saber, polarizers will help you to keep the axis. You can add small M3 screws to hold everything together, leave it like that if it seems solid to you or more simply stick.

Do not hesitate to give me your feedback on possible improvements or other. Your photos of achievements are also very appreciated ;)

Several things you need to know about this sword.

1: It is only compatible with RGB electronics, it is not suitable for a pixel blade.

2: You'll need to cut your electronics chassis in half, as shown in the photos.

3: Even with a screw block, don't consider using it for dueling.

4: You'll lose some 15% brightness due to the shape of the blade.

If, despite this, you're still motivated, we'll move on to the next step.

In short, everything is very simple to set up, but I decline all responsibility for any damage to your electronics.

Be careful and everything will be fine.

Nothing special about printing. Print in position as shown in the photos, support 70°, fill 30% minimum. To cut your RGB chassis, dismantle the LED and button covers, protect the cables well and then cut above the battery as shown in the photos.

To insert the chassis into the saber, start with the top part with the buttons. Screw, then insert the lower part as far as possible, but carefully so as not to damage your PCB. To finish, assemble the two parts of the saber, using polarizers to keep the axis straight. You can add small M3 screws to hold everything together, leave it like that if you think it's solid, or simply glue it together.

Don't hesitate to give me feedback on any improvements or other suggestions. Photos of your work are also very much appreciated ;)

0.4 PLA, support 70°, infill 30% minimum.