six-hole flute (D)

this is a six-hole flute. It is often used to play folk tunes. Getting started with it is relatively easy.

this model is offered as is, (I'm not a musician) if the tones don't suit you it's not my problem; you're warned in advance by reading this.

note too low: you can carefully enlarge the hole with a file to raise the tone a little.

play:

blow normally to play the notes of the first octave

blow harder to reach the second octave

when possible, play centered on the first octave; the sound is less strident

specific fingerings :

(legend: "x" for plugged hole, writing "left -> right" to represent "top -> bottom" )

the note for "C" is obtained by fingering as follows: oxoooo

the note for "A sharp": xoxxoo

see the attached explanatory images and examples, as well as images of tablatures to capture/copy/save; then print out, to note the tunes you wish to remember. half stops are also possible for the high octave, although they are not represented 2 times on the chart-for summary purposes.

update :

a small addition:

this version changes little from the previous one, the only one being

difference is the whistle, which now features

the space in a circle where you can write whatever you like; ( people often put the low note)

the corresponding file is called "new-sif-d",

the other files to be used don't change, and

remain "ring-flute" and "tube-flute".

printing :

-Print tested in PLA; it should also be possible to make it in ABS or another fairly rigid material.

(materials that are too soft absorb sound in a way that is detrimental to the sound result)

-make sure you have at least 3 successive layers of thickness

for the walls.

a good seal is important

(if necessary, set the flow rate to 102%)

-printed model with 35% filling

-bridge parameters activated: to help print "overhead" parts without recourse

excessive use of supports

-You can print the "ring" part vertically by activating the supports.

-print the "whistle" and "tube" parts horizontally

for a successful print; because a wrong vertical print

(not enough supporting edges on the plate)

can lead to pipes tipping over during printing.

-horizontal printing for long tubular parts:

also means greater strength along the length. And above all: a good

air flow (less friction), which is important for better sound.

assembly :

you'll need: sandpaper, cyanoacrylate glue, possibly a small round file,

a fairly long stick with a diameter smaller than the inside diameter

1-deburr and sand the parts a little if necessary

2-mark alignment marks before assembly.

3-assembly :

with cyanoacrylate glue (or epoxy) all around

of the inner walls of the ring where the ends fit together:

you can apply it a second time after pre-assembly to be

to ensure even distribution and sufficient glue.

Indeed, the slightest air leak in the assembly compromises the sound of the flute, and the sound

can only be heard once the gluing has been successfully completed.

Immediately after assembly, you can run a rod through the interior

to remove any glue burrs before the glue sets.