3D model description
As far as I know, this is the only sub-30g mod kit for the Viper V2 Pro that features side buttons.
28g with stock Razer Viper V2 Pro battery
21g without a battery
EXO_MOUSE.stl: The Version I am currently using
EXO-MOUSE no branding.stl: Same Version without branding
EXO-MOUSE flat base.stl: Slightly lighter and flatter base. Try this if the other prints bend.
EXO-MOUSE ZERO.stl: !!!EXPERIMENTAL!!! I did not test this one yet. Around 8% lighter than EXO_MOUSE.stl, but no sensor guard
Upcoming:
- a slimmer version of each style
- a clawgrip version with longer front buttons
- versions with straight sides
- versions without battery holder
- a smaller mousewheel to make clicking MB3 easier and avoid accidental scrolling
I've spent the last 4 months tweaking this project. It started out as a university project and has since turned into somewhat of a hobby. Now, I feel confident enough to share what I've created. The EXO/MOUSE (because I needed a fancy name for my project) is a 28g mod kit for the Viper V2 Pro that has SIDE BUTTONS. It's sturdy, comfortable to use for extended periods, and maintains the stock battery of the Viper V2 Pro.
Please ensure the file is printed using a lightweight and slightly flexible filament/resin to maximize button feel and minimize weight.
The purchase includes only the STL file and no construction files or data.
The mouse uses any 6mm dot skates. I personally use the Corepad Skatez DOTS Universal DIY Dots for mine:
https://www.corepad.de/en/Corepad-Skatez-AllRound-Universal-Teflon-Mousefeet-Mouse-Feet-Hyperglides-Hyperglide/Corepad-Skatez-DOTS--1-Universal-DIY-Dots.html
You could also fit anything from 4mm to 8mm on them if desired.
By purchasing this file, you have the right to use and modify it, but not to resell or market it as your own.
Also, if you have any suggestions for improvements, feel free to let me know. I'm very interested in continuing this project :)
3D printing settings
Size in Slicer:
X: 67.92 mm
Y: 74.18 mm
Z: 20.20 mm
I have printed this using a variety of SLA and SLS printers, so unfortunately, I cannot guarantee how easily it would print on an FDM printer.
The battery compartment at the back has a bit of give to it. This design feature ensures that even less detailed printers can handle it. In my case, a single layer of electrical tape was enough to make it fit snugly, though.
If you're using resin, it's advisable to use a tough, somewhat bendable resin; otherwise, the print might break even when installing the screws. You might also need to separate the side buttons afterward if your printer isn't detailed enough. Additionally, use thin support material for your prints and be cautious not to bend the material too much before curing it. It's quite easy to bend the triggers, which will noticeably affect their feel.
If you're aiming for the best possible print quality and a lightweight result, you might want to opt for an SLS print. I personally use a Nylon-PA12 SLS print by Zelta3D, and I couldn't be happier.