The ULTIMATE EUC Stand - 40+ files to fit EVERY EUC ever made!

Are you tired of having to track down a different EUC stand for every electric unicycle you buy? Search no more - this design is a combination of 9 different stand heights, each with 6 different fully-adjustable widths, which means you can customize the stand you print to fit EVERY EUC out there! Due to the fact that the width is fully adjustable to your exact requirements, there are an infinite number of combinations possible with this design. And, you get them ALL in one download! You only have to pay for the design once to get EVERY COMBINATION so you'll be able to print stands for all your wheels!

One of the best features is that, since the width is fully adjustable, you'll be able to find the best width for your wheel, and not have to worry about centering the EUC (width-wise) on the stand. Set up the stand to the perfect width just once, then just roll it up. No more fiddling getting things aligned each time.

The design is fairly basic, and there's logic to that. It's strong, stable, simple, and easy to use. I'll write a detailed manual and upload it to the folder, but here's the basics of how to choose what to print:

First, measure the distance from the floor to the height of the pedal hangers, lower battery case or other horizontal surface on the bottom of the EUC that you want to sit atop the stand. This height will dictate which of the 9 stand heights (towers) you want, from 90mm (~3.5", best for small Begode Tesla, MTen series, A2 etc.) to 215mm (~8.5") for the Master Pro, Monster Pro, V13 etc.

Next, you'll measure the inside distance between the two surfaces (pedal hangers etc.) that you want to use. You'll usually be able to pick your choice of what to support the EUC from - pedal hangers, battery boxes, etc. This will give you the length of the 'pins' to use that connect the two upright towers together, at the base. Options are unlimited, from less than 65mm (~2.5") wide to a massive 165mm (~6.5") wheel opening.

The main towers are very wide and sturdy - each one is 37.5mm (~1.5") thick at the base and 25mm (~1") at the top, where the EUC is supported. The base is 270mm (over 10.5") wide, to provide a very sturdy base for even the heaviest EUC. My 128lb Master Pro feels completely secure and sturdy atop its Ultimate EUC Stand. Every other printed stand I've tried has left the big wheels feeling a little unstable, especially if you have pets and kids running around. This one is super sturdy and stable.

Each stand requires only four pieces printed (2 copies each of 2 files). Each file is symmetrical, so you don't have to worry about mirroring files or printing two 'lefts' etc. Just print two of the correct tower height for your wheel, two of the right length 'pins' you need, and tap the pins into the bottom of the towers. You won't need any glue, bolts, or other hardware - a snug friction fit will keep anything from moving around and will provide a very robust stand.

PLA+ will be fine for this print, or you can use PETG or other filaments if you're concerned about heat or weather. The tallest, widest, most robust stand will use just over 0.5kg (1/2 a roll) of filament for the complete stand - you could go lighter with walls, infill etc. You're free to select your favourite printing profile; it's a very easy print. My suggested settings are below; feel free to adjust for your preferences.

Nozzle: 0.6mm
Layer height: 0.4mm
Walls: 4+
Top / Bottom layers: 4+
Infill: 15%+, any type that provides good structural support in the vertical direction (X or Y depending on your model orientation on the build plate).
Raft / Brim: Not required
Supports: Not required

If you don't have your printer well calibrated for hole sizes, I suggest doing a test print of a tower (drop the model down and just print the top 7.5mm or so on fast prototype settings: 2 walls etc.). On my Ender 5 Plus, I use a Hole Horizontal Expansion setting of about 0.3mm. Then, print a prototype (shortened) 'pin' to test the fit in the triangular hole on the tower's base (I'll upload some 'sample' files for fit testing). You can use the Horizontal Expansion setting in Cura (named differently in other slicers) to get the pin to fit snugly in the base - you could also scale it slightly although this would affect the length slightly.

The final fit should be snug enough that you can tap the pins in lightly with a mallet, but not so tight that you can't adjust the stand width. Sloppy fitting pins will allow side-to-side play, which will compromise rigidity. A good snug fit will make the structure very strong in every direction.