Auxiliary Lights w/ Switch (No Riser) by JetSpool

JetSpool

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(1)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill

Designer

4.2 h

1 plate

5.0(1)

Boost

Released

Description

This model adds additional interior lighting to the P1S without using a Riser as some other designs have opted for. This design utilizes the existing holes/screws on the P1S to mount two lightbars and adds an on/off button through the Racetrack-shaped hole on the top right of the printer. There are 5 screw locations. I used a USB-powered light strip (https://a.co/d/gVEXpVg) that enables us to use the existing interior USB power port on the printer. Soldering is required for the switch and possibly the light strip, but use of LED strip adhesive is not required due to the channel design of the supports.

Switch used:

https://a.co/d/c2sGGZh

Installation of all the components can be tricky, so take your time. Here are a few tips from my experience:

Install the light strip into the channels before sliding the “spine” though the rest of the parts
To install the forward lightbar assembly, you may have to pry up on the right corner of the top facia on the printer. There is also a latch you can release (mentioned in this Bambu Wiki: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/front-cover) to give you some extra space
When installing the forward lightbar assembly into the printer, make sure the cable coming from the USB side and the light strip stide are tucked away. There are “hooks” on the front facia panel of the P1 and it may not seat properly if the cables aren't on the right side of these "hook(s)"
Once the switch is compressed and slid into the button support it cannot be removed, so ensure soldering is complete and tucked against the sides of the switch to ensure it fits correctly once seated
Make sure there is some excess light strip length between the two LED strip supports. This will make sure you have room to attach the corner cover piece once everything else is installed.

Comment & Rating (7)

@royeiror

I bought the AliExpress LED strip that attaches to the original LED connector, I had enough strip for two complete turns, so I have more light than what I was expecting. one thing is when I removed the front faceplate of the printer I couldn't screw it back on, is that correct?

The designer has replied

@JetSpool

Looks like doubling the light strip really packed a lot of lighting in there! Regarding the faceplate screw, I tried it without and it worked fine, but I did end up being able to screw the face plate in fully. While sliding/installing the forward light bar in, I unclipped the latch in the attached pics and was able to pry up a little on the top right corner of the faceplate just enough to get the lightbar to slide in. there is just a little "hook" (maybe it's a cable guide feature?) on the bottom of the faceplate that you have to slide the light bar underneath.

@royeiror

Replying to @JetSpool :

I don't intend to make any further modifications for this LED setup, even though I'm not using the switch and button, and maybe with time the second layer of lights might detach from the double sided tape I added. One thing I did have to do is to slide the deburrer along the sides of the rails as they fit very snugly, it may have been that I printed the setup with PETG instead of PLA as you did, which might have had different shrink factor, I'd add a small chamfer if anything.

@royeiror

Replying to @royeiror :

I ended up driving a hole across the piece and placed the screw against the LED assembly, and now my printer is perfectly tight.

@royeiror

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill

printed perfectly, I'll be assembling it tonight

(Edited)