Ortlieb adapter for AXA frame locks

Ortlieb adapter for AXA frame locks

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P1S
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X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

PETG - 0.08mm layer, 9 walls, 50% infill
PETG - 0.08mm layer, 9 walls, 50% infill
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44 min
1 plate

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Description

what.

This is an add-on for the Ortlieb Anti-Theft-Device, literally linking compatible Ortlieb bags with AXA frame locks that are compatible with RLC chains; I use an AXA Defender, thinking about switching to an AXA Victory.

As I "lost" my old Vaude bike bag, I wanted to make sure I have a 2nd form of attachment of my new bag. Ortliebs attachment-mechanism makes it generally a bit harder to "lose" a bag, but with this additional step it might prevent a loss even if someone tries to give a helping hand.

This bolt is screwed around the Ortlieb wire, leaving the eyelet mostly free to still serve its original purpose. The bolt gets inserted into the chain-connector on compatible AXA frame locks. This connector locks even when the rest of the lock is open, and is released by twisting the key and unplugging it simultaneously.

 


note.

Just as the Ortlieb Anti Theft Device, this won't prevent a planned theft of your bag; the wire is cut fast and easily. But a culprit might not suspect this form of attachment in a grab+fly situation at a red light.

 


note2.

As this is printed, this could easily break when an "accident" happens; completely ripping it apart by force should prove to be not an easy task though. I see it like this: if it survives only one of these cases and leaves the bag in my possession, it was well worth the trouble and I can just print it again.

 


BOM. Things you need.

  • 2x 8mm M3 screws, pan head
  • 3x 10 M3 screws, every shape but countersunk is fine
  • 5x M3 nut
  • and obviously: Ortlieb Anti-Theft-Device, compatible Ortlieb bag, and an RLC-chain compatible AXA frame lock

Assembly is straight forward - the two short M3 screws go into the bolt part, the longer ones into the holder part. I recommend to insert the screws first, then placing the Ortlieb wire into the embossed area (as shown in the photos). You may have to bend the corner of the eyelet a bit, to get a bit wider. Then just place the 2nd half with inserted nuts on top and screw it tight (start with the screw sitting inside the eyelet), that will direct the wire into its final position. To make it stronger, you can use glue or Loctite to secure the screws to the nuts.

 


printing advice.

I strongly recommend to not use PLA - the printing orientation will help with a strong tip, but it being as brittle as it is and weak to UV light it's not a good choice. I used PETG with great success, but ASA should work too.
I also recommend to increase strength by raising the wall perimeters (7-10 is good), that will interfere with bridging so a bit of support might be needed. That is easy enought to remove though.

The supplied profile is meant to print really fine, this is so it can be properly round. Adjust to your liking.

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