Soprano Ukulele

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Soprano Ukulele

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Print Profile(8)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

Body
Body
Designer
9.6 h
1 plate
5.0(2)

Bridge and center ring
Bridge and center ring
Designer
34 min
1 plate
5.0(2)

saddle
saddle
Designer
16 min
1 plate
5.0(2)

Neck
Neck
Designer
5.8 h
1 plate
5.0(2)
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Released

Description

There are already many designs for 3D printed ukuleles. Why another one? My goal was to design and build from scratch an instrument that I could then use to write my own original song.

 

It ended up taking a lot longer than I originally anticipated, and there were many mistakes along the way. Versions 1 through 5.2 never saw the light of day. But I'm pretty happy with out it finally turned out.

 

Sound demo and build instructions available in the video below:

 

 

Click here for 3D printed ukulele tuners I designed to go with this uke.

 

I also designed a mount to hang the uke from the wall.

 

If you prefer more conventional tuners, the hole patterns match Grover brand ukulele tuners, model 9NB.

 

In addition to the printed parts, you'll need 1 Number 4, 1'' wood screw to screw the headstock to the neck.

 

I also used a 200 mm long, 5 mm diameter carbon fiber rod in the neck for strength. The rod is available from Amazon. If you don't want to use the carbon fiber rod, there is a version of the neck available without the rod hole.

Print Settings

  • Printer : Bambu Lab P1S
  • No Supports Rafts, or Brims
  • Resolution: 0.12 mm
  • Infill: 50 %
  • Filament material: LA

Notes:

All parts were printed with 5 shell layers and 50% infill for strength. No supports, rafts, or brims required for any part.

Various parts were glued together. I like Gorilla brand superglue gel. See the video for pictures of the build.

 

If the bridge isn't glued properly, it can pull off.  I found lightly sanding the bottom of the bridge really helps.  I also apply pressure using clamps for 10 or 15 minutes to make sure it is strongly attached.

 

Most parts were printed with 0.12 mm resolution. However, the fretboard was printed with 0.08 mm resolution. For the fretboard, I paused the print at the top of the fretboard to change filament colors, so that the frets print in a different color than the fretboard.

 

You'll need one each of the following
Body
Bridge
Center ring
Fretboard
Saddle
Headstock screw cover

 

If using the carbon fiber rod print the Neck. Otherwise print the neck - no rod hole

 

The headstock is designed with a decorative inlay. If you want to use the inlay, print the Headstock - with inlay, and the Headstock inlay.

If you prefer not to deal with the inlay, print the Headstock - no inlay.

 

You'll need five of the fret markers.

 

On the bottom of the body is a screw hole. You can either attach a strap pin to the bottom of the uke with this screw hole, or fill the hole with the Bottom screw.

 

The saddle is a compensated saddle. When placing it in the slot in the bridge, pay attention to the orientation. The peaks in the middle part of the bridge should be further from the top of the uke, and peaks on the edges of the bridge should be nearer the top.

Comment & Rating (31)

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The print profile is no longer public
2nd attempt much better using petg cf with slower speed and acceleration settings. Random seams
(Edited)
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Nice! Interested to see how the full uke turns out.
(Edited)
1
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Replying to @jwnicholson :
wasn't the best on the under side so changed over the filament to petg cf and changed the speed settings slightly on overhangs. almost finished the reprint so will post again shortly
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I mostly used PLA for my prints. I tried Bambu Lab PETG, but it's bending modulus is very low, which resulted in fairly bendy uke body. The result was nice sounding, but very quiet uke.
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Here is my Ukulele.
The designer has replied
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Thanks for sharing. It looks great! I really like the dark blue. What filament is that?
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It is honestly unreal how good it sounds! The only issues I ran into were some overhangs not printing nicely, even with supports enabled (the bottom sides of the body and the headstock). Even so, I think it came out very nice! Thank you for all the work you put into designing this thing!
The designer has replied
1
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Looks great! I love the colors you picked. For the body and headstock, I usually print on silent mode. I found that helps with the overhangs. Also 0.12 mm resolution was optimal for that as well. Thanks for the feedback and taking the time to post your build pics!
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Replying to @jwnicholson :
I appreciate the follow up and thank you for the feedback! I printed the body, neck, and headstock at 0.16mm instead of 0.12mm because I used PLA-CF and didn't want to risk clogging the nozzle.
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Print Profile
headstock and headstock screw cover
Love the design!!
1
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Print Profile
Neck
Like how it fits nice and snug.
1
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Print Profile
Body
Easy to print, love the weight!
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hi, i want to know what wire should i use for this one
(Edited)
The designer has replied
1
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Do you mean what to use for the strings? I use Aquila nylgut or D'Addario Nyltech ukulele strings. I get them from Amazon.
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Boosted
:)
1
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Hello creator, I am thinking about printing this with PLA Wood. I am guitarist and I can see you have really great studio. Can I ask you why did you choose to print saddle with 50% infill and not 100%? If I have a look on my real guitars I did some tunnings and its really recommended to have saddle "full" like bone... I guess having only 50% can negatively affect sound of ukulele. Or am I overthinking? Thanks for answer. :-)
The designer has replied
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Thank you for your helpful comment. I was not aware of the potential issue of printing a saddle at 50%. Next time I print one I will do it at 100% and see if it makes a difference in the sound. I tried wood PLA from Amolen and was pretty unhappy with the results. First, it didn't really look like wood. But worse was that the wood PLA was more brittle and broke easier than standard PLA, so I was concerned about it warping and breaking over time under string tension.
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Print Profile
saddle
Nice!!
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