There are already many designs for 3D printed ukuleles. Why another one? My goal was to design and build from scratch an instrument that I could then use to write my own original song.
It ended up taking a lot longer than I originally anticipated, and there were many mistakes along the way. Versions 1 through 5.2 never saw the light of day. But I'm pretty happy with out it finally turned out.
Sound demo and build instructions available in the video below:
Click here for 3D printed ukulele tuners I designed to go with this uke.
I also designed a mount to hang the uke from the wall.
If you prefer more conventional tuners, the hole patterns match Grover brand ukulele tuners, model 9NB.
In addition to the printed parts, you'll need 1 Number 4, 1'' wood screw to screw the headstock to the neck.
I also used a 200 mm long, 5 mm diameter carbon fiber rod in the neck for strength. The rod is available from Amazon. If you don't want to use the carbon fiber rod, there is a version of the neck available without the rod hole.
Notes:
All parts were printed with 5 shell layers and 50% infill for strength. No supports, rafts, or brims required for any part.
Various parts were glued together. I like Gorilla brand superglue gel. See the video for pictures of the build.
If the bridge isn't glued properly, it can pull off. I found lightly sanding the bottom of the bridge really helps. I also apply pressure using clamps for 10 or 15 minutes to make sure it is strongly attached.
Most parts were printed with 0.12 mm resolution. However, the fretboard was printed with 0.08 mm resolution. For the fretboard, I paused the print at the top of the fretboard to change filament colors, so that the frets print in a different color than the fretboard.
You'll need one each of the following
Body
Bridge
Center ring
Fretboard
Saddle
Headstock screw cover
If using the carbon fiber rod print the Neck. Otherwise print the neck - no rod hole
The headstock is designed with a decorative inlay. If you want to use the inlay, print the Headstock - with inlay, and the Headstock inlay.
If you prefer not to deal with the inlay, print the Headstock - no inlay.
You'll need five of the fret markers.
On the bottom of the body is a screw hole. You can either attach a strap pin to the bottom of the uke with this screw hole, or fill the hole with the Bottom screw.
The saddle is a compensated saddle. When placing it in the slot in the bridge, pay attention to the orientation. The peaks in the middle part of the bridge should be further from the top of the uke, and peaks on the edges of the bridge should be nearer the top.