No Riser

No Frame

No Joints

No Vents

No Fittings

No Sealings

No Screws

Just a stupid simple Clip on LED bar…

This might be the easiest and quickest way to massively improve the chamber lighting on any P1 or X1 Printer.
It is not fancy and definitely no beauty at all, it doesn't even have any honeycomb pattern! ;-)
But it is only one part to print and it can be installed within 3 minutes without losing the ability of controlling the LED bar via the controlpanel.

I was looking for a solution to bring more light into the chamber of my P1S. Unfortunately I only found very complicated solutions that all missed the mark. That's why I designed this simple LED strip which can be printed in one piece and attached without tools or other mounting accessories.

The simplest solution is to power the LED bar via the USB port at the top of the frame, here you finally have the opportunity to use one of the countless, cheap and far too short USB cables that come with all electronic devices.. :)

The more elegant and only slightly more complex variant is the connection directly to the original LED slot, but let's go through it step by step.

First Step: Single or double version?

Before you continue, be aware that Bambulab recommends a maximum current on the LED port of 0.3A (according to this Wiki guide: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/troubleshooting/p1p-led-failture). The single version draws 0.2A. So thats absolutely within the safe range. On the double version there is the double amount of LED's, so the current is also doubled (who would have thought? ). With 0.4A on the bouble bar we are above the specs, so if you chose this version it's on your own risk.

With that said, here some comparison pictures of the different options:

No light: (My workshop is pretty well lit)

Original light bar:

Single LED bar:

double LED bar:

As you can see, the difference between the original and the KISS LED Bar is massive, while the difference between the single and double version is not that big.

I chose the double version because I had already printed the bar and soldered the LED. In the spirit of KISS, I would recommend the single version. This has the further advantage that no soldering work is necessary. But let's take care of the 3D printing first.

Second step: Printing

Printing is just straight forward. I added some support at the cutouts, but they are not absolutely necessary.
Due to the temperatures in the printer enclosure I would recommend ASA or at least PETG. I also created a PLA profile, but I would only recommend this variant for open P1P printers.

Third step: Soldering

As mentioned, if you decide to make the single version you don't have to solder anything. Just make sure to order some LED stripe that is designed for the P1/X1 printers, like this one for example: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005873305547.html

The LED stripes come with a preassembled connector and the wires are at the right length. So you only have to cut the LED Stripe and stick it to the printed bar. Just make sure the connector is at the right side, where the large cutout is located:

As you can see in this picture, the effort for the double LED bar is not much bigger, the connections for 5V and GND only have to be connected with a short piece of wire.

And now we are already good to go for the

Forth step: mounting

My instructions and pictures refer to the P1S. I assume that the P1P has an identical structure. However, there are some differences with the X1. Since I don't have an X1, I have to refer to the instructions from Bambulab: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-the-chamber-led

First of all: Turn off the printer.

Now you have to remove the AMS and the Lid and you are ready to peel of a bit of the black tape. Starting where the red/black wire disappears underneath it.
The Cable sticks directly onto the Camera Cable, so if you pull to hard you will unplug that cable. It's not a big deal to put it back, but its definitely easier if you just leave it at its place.

The camera cable is the black one on the right side.
The connector in the middle of the picture is the LED connector. Just unplug it by pushing the little knob and pulling ist out gently.

Now put in the LED bar by aligning it in the middle and pressing it neatly against the wall. To be sure it will not fall of you could ad two drops of glue to the bar before pushing it in. I did not do that and had no issues so far.

Insert the connector and feed the cable into the cable duct and under the adhesive tape.

Turn on the printer again and check if the LED bar and the Camera are working.
If so, you can put back the Tape and that's it.

Have fun and please let me know if you have any questions, problems or suggestions.