Are you tired of trying to mount your monitor to an arm, but the back of the monitor is curved and not compatible with the plate/arm that you are trying to mount it to?

Well, that's a problem I had too. So I decided to create this simple but effective adapter plate that allows you to easily overcome this incompatibility by creating a buffer between the back of your monitor, and the plate that you are trying to mount it to. This is especially helpful when the back of your monitor's VESA 100x100 mount is recessed, and can't be reached by a plate that's either completely flat, or that doesn't accommodate recessed installation.

I've included several thicknesses for your specific use case. For me, I needed to mount my 3 Asus monitors to my sim racing rig, which came with straight 90 degree plates. Using the 20mm was perfect, but your mileage may vary.

Materials Used:

PLA or PLA Tough should work just fine. I used 6 walls and 25% infill to keep it strong but light. Adjust as required. I wouldn't recommend PETG unless the adapter plate will be exposed to chemicals, excessive moisture/water or regular sources of UV. A good alternative is ABS or Nylon for the strength, but PLA should be more than good enough for most applications.

Print Settings:

Layer height: 0.2
Walls: 6

Bottom/Top: 5/5

Infill: 20-30%

Infill Type: Cubic (strongest) or Gyroid

You'll need to do some calculations first:

1. First, using calipers or another accurate and reliable way to measure depth, measure the deepest depth between the outside back side of your monitor, and where the recessed holes are for VESA mounting. Whatever that number is, you will need an adapter plate that is at LEAST that thick. For example, on the back of my monitors, the deepest distance between the back and the recessed screw holes is 18mm. Therefore, a 20mm plate is required. The 15mm plate would not be enough.
2. Now measure the thickness of your mounting plate (the plate to which your monitor should be mounted). In my case, the plate's thickness is 5mm.
3. Note that generally, the interior depth of the screw holes (which should accommodate M4 screws) will be 10mm. Double check with a depth gauge or look it up for your specific model if required.
4. Now for the fun part :P A little bit of math. You'll need M4 screws to mount your monitor. In order to do so, you need to figure out how long they need to be. To do that, take the number from step 1 (for me, 20mm) add it with the number from step 2 (for me, 5mm) and then add the number from step 3 (10mm). For me, that's 35mm, so the perfect screw length for me is 35mm. It's always better to go a little shorter if necessary. Going longer will mean that your screw will bottom out in the hole, and a gap will be left between the screw head and the plate to which your monitor is mounted.

Installation Instructions:

1. This is the easy part. You'll need 4 M4 screws in the length you calculated in the above steps, and 4 M4 washers. You can utilize lock washers if you'd like to keep things tight, but I've got some blue loctite on my screws so I'm not particularly worried.
2. Place the mounting plate adapter you printed from this page against the back of your monitor, and line it up with the 4 screw holes.
3. Place the mounting plate on top of the adapter, also lining up the screw holes.
4. Place an M4 washer over each M4 screw before inserting them through the mounting plate and mounting plate adapter, and then screw them in to the back of your monitor. Take care not to tighten them until they have been uniformly screwed in using a diagonal motion (top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right, etc).
5. Tighten till snug but do NOT over-tighten. I've added extra walls for strength, but you can always add more if you feel you need it, as well as more infill if required.

DONE!

Pretty easy fix to an annoying problem. Let me know your thoughts or how you'd improve this, and feel free to remix and post on Maker World. Enjoy!