Undertaker Cosplay Scythe Prop - Black Butler - Instant Download STL Files for 3D Printing

These are fan-made models of the Undertaker's scythe based off of the official anime reference sheet and manga panels from Black Butler. All of my models are always made from scratch by me.

Due to etsy's upload limits, you will receive a google drive link with 1 zip folder that contains the 48 stl files:

1. The head section which comes separated as the *head base, the **blade and the crowns. *The head base is pre-separated into 2 parts, the blade is pre-separated into 6 parts, the crowns is pre-separated into 2 parts.

2. The torso section which comes separated as the *spine core, the spine base, 2 identical collar bones, 2 identical rib 1, 2 identical rib 2, 2 identical rib 3, 2 identical rib 4, 2 identical rib 5, 2 identical rib 6, 2 identical base ribs and the centre ribcage.

3. The *handle section which is pre-separated into 2 parts.

4. The base section which comes separated as the core and the *tip. I highly recommend printing the tip with a much higher infill and greater number of walls for increased durability given that it will be against the ground a lot.

5. *2 identical sets of bolt feature models.

6. An alternative longer blade that is approximately 30cm longer than the original blade included. This is pre-separated into 7 parts.

• a document guide on how to use the bolt feature

More Info for this Product:

*I recommend using a higher wall and infill percentage and wall number for the head base, spine core, handle, base section and bolt feature models, to maintain sturdiness and to assist key weight bearing points (such as x3 walls and 10% gyroid)

**I recommend printing the blade on ultra light settings, such as x2 walls and 3% gyroid infill, to minimise weight and in turn, lower the weight stress on the thinner parts of the model like the neck and spine.

To make transport easier, there are 2x bolt slots within different areas of the prop so that you can take it a part and put it back together with ease without sacrificing durability. These bolts and nuts must be the m10x125mm type, feel free to message me if you're unsure about this! A step by step guide is included in the purchase detailing how to implement these. Once put together, the scythe can be broken a part into 3 detachable segments.

The scythe is designed to fit numerous dowels within for extra strength. All 7 of these dowels will need to be 1.27cm in diametre. Due to the very organic shape of the scythe, these dowels will all need to be cut at different lengths. Please refer to image 8 and 10 for more information about length and placement.

Dowel 1 - 86cm (Original Blade)
Dowel 2 - 22cm (Original Blade)
Dowel 3 - 29cm
Dowel 4 - 20cm
Dowel 5 - 24cm
Dowel 6 - 51cm
Dowel 7 - 37cm

Alternative Longer Blade Dowels:
Dowel 1 - 108cm
Dowel 2 - 33cm

All sections slot into one another.

Some things to consider:

. These models and split parts are designed to fit on a Creality CR 10 Smart Pro printer build volume of 30cm wide, 30cm deep, & 41cm high. (as requested by the person who wanted this prop made)

. The included models are scaled to fit a generalised 5'7" tall person. If you would like to resize to a different generalised height (such as 5'3" or 6'0"), and are not comfortable doing it yourself, please contact me so I can do it for you!

. I will be unable to provide the models in any file format other than .stl

. I typically provide the models in a default orientation which is often not at an optimal orientation to print considering various factors, please consider the orientation of the models and adjust them accordingly. If you would like some orientation tips, please contact me.

. Before printing your final parts, make sure to do a test print, double check that the generalised sizes are right for you and re-size if needed. If you decide to resize, make sure to scale all joining parts collectively so that they will fit together. If parts have features that rely on ultra precise measurements such as dowel slots, fabric slots, or magnet insets, please feel free to contact me if you'd like to resize them so that I can do it for you while maintaining the correct size of the feature.

. Models that are pre-split into parts will likely have some degree of seam line depending on how accurately your printer prints the joining edges of the models, the pins, and the voids, as well as material expansion. If you encounter this, I recommend using some sort of filler, such as epoxy putty, to fill in the seam line and then sand everything well for smooth results.

If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me!

Feel free to also drop pics of your cosplays, I'd love to see what you make!

Thanks for stopping by! I hope you enjoy!

Designed for FDM printing

I recommend trying out the Overture PLA Pro brand of filament. Its more robust and easier to sand than other PLA brands I've tried out, and typically prints very nicely.

General Filament Printer Settings Recommendation:
(Parameters have been tested to work well with Overture PLA Pro)

. A fine layer height of 0.1mm or less for a nice and smooth surface straight off of the print bed. (This helps to minimise time spent on post processing by sanding to obscure layer lines.)

. Organic/tree supports at 45% overhang threshold and 0.2 detachable top z contact distance. (Overall they are much better in my experience than default style supports; With organic/tree supports, surface detail is better retained, they are much easier to remove, minimal marks are left behind after removal, and they tend to use less filament.)

. Infill at around 5-10% gyroid for a more durable model, or 5-10% lightning for a more lightweight model.

. x2-3 walls at 0.8mm thickness for adequately durable model walls. (A model's main strength I find comes from the number of walls and not the infill density. This in conjunction with the infill setting chosen is very dependent on how brittle/impact resistant your filament is.)