Mini Suet Bird Feeder

Mini Suet Feeder

The mini Suet feeder comes in two variations, one that can be hung from a branch and a second that uses two screws to attach it to a flat surface (See Figure 1). Also included is a filler kit consisting of a funnel and a stuffer (See Figures 2 and 3). Working with suet or other forms of bird feed can be quite messy so the filler kit may made the process a bit easier. Make sure that the suet cavity and filler kit are carefully cleaned when used to prevent mold, etc..

The faceplate is attached using two #8 1/2 inch round head wood screws. You may have to drill the holes a bit larger to prevent the area from splitting Use #8 for the mounting as well, the length will depend upon the surface, ie a longer screw is recommender for mounting on a tree with thick bark as compared to wood trim on a building.

The entrance has a number of 'grab holes' at the bottom portion to aid any bird that wishes to use this area for landing rather than the perch. Each grab hole uses drain slots to empty any water into the recessed perch area immediately below (See Figure 4).
If the drain slots become plugged and fill with water, freezing will most likely split and damage the faceplate. Each time the feeder is filled check to make sure that the drain holes have not become plugged.

I use PLA and this material is subject to 'UV ROT' when exposed to the sun for long periods of time. It is recommend that the feeder be given several coats of paint for UV protection. Be careful not to plug the small grip holes located in the bottom portion of the entrance and the associated drain slots (see Figure 4).

There are numerous sites on the web devoted to feeding birds and making bird feed. Here are just a few:

https://www.birdsandblooms.com/birding/attracting-birds/feeding-birds/make-homemade-suet/
https://www.almanac.com/suet-bird-food-recipe
https://www.food.com/recipe/no-melt-suet-for-birds-321434
https://www.audubon.org/news/make-your-own-suet
I have not tested this as yet to see if birds are attracted.
You feed back, constructive criticism and comments are welcome. Good luck.

SLICING

Use whatever you feel comfortable with but here are some suggestions.
I normally slice the BODY with the following setting - bottom, walls and top with 4 layers, infill 20% .

When it comes to slicing the two most vulnerable parts are the hanging loop and screw tabs. It is suggested that these be 'beefed up' a bit, along with the two screw holes for the front faceplate. The Prusa slicer supports this (I believe Cura as well but have not test this on their slicer) I use a cylinder shaped modifier with 6 walls for the area around the two screw holes used for fasting the faceplate to the body and a box modifier for the two tabs for screw mounting (or the area around the Hanger version) with 6 walls and 80% infill.
I print the FLACEPLATE with 4 bottom, top, wall layers and 20% infill. (23 metres of Filament 1h50m)

Another two setting used are bridging at .90% and elephant foot at .3mm. (these are not critical but make for a slightly 'cleaner' print).