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Anycubic Kobra 2 series camera case with mount [DIY]

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Creation quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
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  • 1 download

License
3D design format
STL Folder details Close
  • Kobra2CameraBackCover.STL
  • Kobra2CameraMount.STL
  • Kobra2Camera_case_WOlamp_WOsdcard.STL
  • Kobra2Camera_case_WOlamp_Wsdcard.STL
  • Kobra2Camera_case_Wlamp_WOsdcard.STL
  • Kobra2Camera_case_Wlamp_Wsdcard.STL

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Publication date 2024-01-14 at 17:10
Design number 1711785

3D printer file info

3D model description

Introduction

I made this camera housing for my Anycubic Kobra 2 pro device to check the printing process and stop it if something goes wrong.

I don't like the Pi and SMT32 cameras because of the low resolution and used a regular wireless street camera.
It has 2 mpx, night vision, microphone, sdcard for recordings and cloud connection.

The result exceeded all my expectations.

So now you can make your own camera for your Kobra 2 printer and use it as I did.

What inside
Camera case:

  1. With night vision lamp and sdcard; options 1.1. With night vision lamp and without sdcard; 1.2. Without night vision lamp and with sdcard; 1.3. Without night vision lamp and without sdcard;

W-with
WO-without

  1. Back cover for camera;
  2. Camera mount.

Nut and bolt design you can take from another project: "Articulating Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for Prusa MK3 and MK2" @Sneaks

Parts to build
Camera: almost all 40\40 cameras feets in this case but my recommendation is: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005868736136.html - less than 15 usd.
USB power cable: https://aliexpress.com/item/4000227441209.html - less than 1.5 usd.
Power wire connector: https://aliexpress.com/item/32946945885.html - less than 1.5 usd for 10.

Manual
Without LED
1. Set up your camera to your home network to get an image.
After that, the first thing you need to do is to change the focal length of your camera so that it clearly captures the near distance;
2. Disassemble the camera body;
You need to unscrew the top of the camera, then unscrew the 3 screws. Now you can disconnect the camera board from the front of the camera unit.
3. From this point, you will need to rotate the lens (slight rotation is required) to adjust the focus;
When this is done, you can remove all unnecessary wires.
It's very simple. You only need to be left with a board with one wire connected (see photo).
4. Bite off the camera's power wire so that at least 3-4 centimeters are left. Of the three wires, you will only need 2 (black and red). You can remove the brown one;
5. If you do not plan to use the night LED, mount the camera in the housing;
6. Connect the power connector to the camera's power wire, where the red wire connects to the short end and the black to the long end;
7. Install and secure the connector into the housing;
8. Plug the wi-fi antenna connector into the back cover of the camera and connect the connector to the wireless module;
9. Now connect the power connector to the board and close the back cover with the antenna;
10. The camera is ready. You are great.

With LED

Same sequence as described above, only:

  1. Remove one night LED of the camera with a soldering iron;
  2. Solder a 33 ohm resistor to the "+" leg of the wireless module;
  3. Connect "+" of the LED with the resistor and "-" with the minus contact of the wireless module (see photo);
  4. Install the LED in the special socket of the camera body;
  5. Follow the instructions described above from point 5.

It could looks hard but you can do this with medium experince in soldering and electronics.

Check out the pictures I added in the description to simplify the assembly procedure.

I hope you like it!

3D printing settings

I used Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro FDM 3D printer to make it.
Prusa Slicer v.2.6.
Plastic: PETg, 225 degrees Celsius for nozzle and 85 degrees table.
- 0.2mm resolution;
- 20% infill;
- support - yes, from table.

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