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Worker Harrier Ergo Upgrades

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Creation quality: 5.0/5 (1 vote)
Evaluation of members on the printability, utility, level of detail, etc.
  • 814 views
  • 2 likes
  • 6 downloads
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3D design format
Folder details Close
  • Harrier_Magwell_v7.stl
  • Harrier_knuckle_delete.stl
  • Harrier_name_plate_blank.stl
  • Harrier_top_rail_front_v2.stl
  • Harrier_top_rail_v7.stl
  • Harrier_top_rail_v7_with_Centre_Holes.stl
  • Safety_Delete_Harrier_v2.stl
  • Thumb_Screw_Harrier.stl
  • harrier_knuckle.stl

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Publication date 2024-01-15 at 22:07
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Published to Thingiverse on: 2023-08-10 at 08:29
Design number 1715091
waff1e

waff1e

3D printer file info

3D model description

This is a set of parts that I have created/remixed (sorry I dont remember who I remixed from, lmk and I'll attribute you) for the Worker Harrier

  • Safety Delete to remove the stock safety, it's kinda pointless. Should just be a press fit, though glue is always there for a more permanent solution. [Print at any infill above 15%]

  • Knuckle Guard pommel fill, I'm not a fan of the stock knuckle guard, this will give it a traditional pistol grip. There is also a small disc that will fill the hole near the trigger guard, however the center hole will need to be drilled out for a clean fit (3.5mm drill bit). [Print at any infill above 15%]

  • Name Plate fills where the side picatinny rails go, open it up in CAD (tinkercad is fine) and add your name for your blaster. [Print with any infill above 15%]

  • Top rail for both back and front, these require M3x10mm bolts and M3 washers to secure tight. If you want to counterbolt from the other side, use M3x12 and an extra washer and nut. This will allow the dissassembly of the blaster with only two screws. I have tried it, the is very strong even without the top rail.

If you're mounting a larger scope (LPVO or similar), you may want to use the second version of the top rail with extra holes. This requires dilling 3.5mm holes into the shell of the Harrier, and securing with a washer and nut on the underside. The holes in the center are offset so you are only drilling into one side of the shell. There is little to no wobble with this version. [Print with triangular or hexagonal infill above 25%, with at least 3 shell layers]

  • Thumbscrew tops for the two scres that hold the blaster together. These are designed for M3x40 hex head bolts, and you'll need to heat up the head of the bolt and then press it into the printed part for a perfect fit. [Print with any infill above 25%, have at least 4 walls to allow for the hot press fit of the bolt]

  • Flared magwell for those speedy reloads. This simply snaps over the magwell. [Print with triangular or hexagonal infill above 20%]

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