Dragon Katana Collapsible Sword by Maker Dave

Maker Dave

Art>Other Art Models

Print Profile(2)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

47.4 h

1 plate

3.9(36)

0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

7.6 h

2 plates

Boost

115

176

778

554

Released

Description

This is another sword I've created now that I've taught myself how to create the blades that anyone can print. I was very frustrated trying to print other collapsible blade swords on thingiverse even with my printer properly configured. So I created new blades with the correct spacing that you can print at ".2" resolution and regular speed.

This is a take on a Katana type sword and I've embossed Dragons on the hilt and added the Kenji symbol for Dragon as well.

Comment & Rating (48)

@Bangles

Printed just fine on my X1C. I ran out of grey so the bottom of my handle is white, printed the blade with a transparent PLA and it looks really cool. I had to glue the bottom clip on and one of the clips broke off. My kid is happy with it though. The blade does take a little careful force to close again as its really snug but it stays up well

@user_4013597004

how long is this

@Hkaur1998510

printed 2 of them out but the tip always has this uneven part at the same spot. going to print another tall object to test if it happens on that too in case it’s just a fault on my printer. but amazing print overall

The designer has replied

@MakerDave

what's happening is a layer shift at that height. That is definitely printer/filament related. Let me know how it works out as I've printed that model without having an issue. Plus it's one of my older models I posted up on thingiverse years ago and people have been downloading for years.

@EnoTheThracian

Print Profile

0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

While the hilt prints nicely, the nested, high aspect ratio blades need to be separated to become printable with these settings. Even then, the thinnest blade experiences significant bending during printing. Print time can be reduced by recoloring the hilt and separating blades and hilt. 9h versus 48h with almost no waste.

(Edited)

@SassySouthernCr

hey i was wondering if i can buy the comercial licence from you. I got kids that go to the farmers market and id love to see them run around causing chaos with the sword

The designer has replied

@MakerDave

Sure I've done some commercial licenses already. You can buy license packs of 100, 500 and 500+. Each license pack entitles you to print the corresponding number of physical designs. Please let me know what number of license you'd like to purchase and I'll send over the purchasing licensing agreement document.

@MakerDave

Just wanted to share with you all that this is not a beginners sword model to print. I have the other sword model (https://makerworld.com/en/models/72695) for beginners to print that comes right off the bed in a single print (see video). I've tried to make it as easy to print as possible and from the comments below some of you have had success with my print profile. For those that did not there are many reasons why you may be running into issues such as filament, temperature, printer maintenance.

@Jb347837

I’d post that in the Bambu community not on this guys model it’s like say a dude has a shop right but you go into his store and advertise your store

@aminimumoxie

Print Profile

0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

had to glue the retainer clip on. every time we would push the blade in it would pop off and the blade would fall out. works now though.

The designer has replied

@MakerDave

Thanks for letting me know. I added the retainer to the hilt because people without AMS could do the hilt in one color and the blades in another.

@3DArtFusion

Print Profile

0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Bed Adhesion Issue:Unfortunately given how these machines print at such high speeds and the bed will do up and down dancing when printing at said speeds blades like these can and will lose adhesion quite easily which happened on my machine. Print Profile desperately needs changing to compensate for that, not entirely certain what needs compensating yet but I would guess the Print speed itself needs tweaking and possibly z hop among others. The model should also be split up plate wise for time and waste.

The designer has replied

@MakerDave

Thanks for the feedback. The challenge here is there are so many factors on bed adhesion. As you can see from the comments others have printed without issues. The factors that impact adhesion is bed plate type/age, filament, speed, temperatures. I will put up another print profile per your suggestion that slows it down. I can also split out the plates as you suggest if that helps for others. Please note that you can use Bambu Studio's object feature to break out the model as well.

@3DArtFusion

Replying to @MakerDave :

I might give that a shot on the Bambu Printers, printing each part individually might help the blade come out properly. I did manage to get it fully printed on my Prusa MK4 with no issues so it is definitely something to do with the P1/X1 series and how they move as far as I can tell given the MK4 did it without fail.