You could just go out and buy a regular dice. You may even have a perfectly fine dice in some of your board games. Or you could use an app like all the cool kids do (I guess that is what cool kids do? I never asked one).
But where would be the fun in that?

Other dices are boring. Not because they all look the same and do the same thing. No. They are boring because you didn't built them!
Print your own dice today and experience the pain of not being able to push the damn panels into the frame! And which way are those panels supposed to be pushed in anyway? All that and more in the:

Assembly guide:
Turns out it doesnt really matter which panel goes where, but if you want to do it like I did, then use the video as reference. Use an object with a flat side to push the panels in. Your fingers won't be strong enough. Ask me how I know :)
By the way I used the backside of a pair of tweezers. Dont forget to press the core into the frame before you do the panels. Instead of a printed core, any cube with a side length of 12mm can be used. For example you could use a 12mm cube magnet to make the dice a little less fair ;)

The panels are supposed to be slightly recessed inside the frame. If you can feel the core moving inside while shaking the dice, either one or more panels are not pushed in all the way. Shake the dice in all directions seperately to check. If the dice rattles a bit its fine :)

Disassembly guide:
If you drop the dice from a sufficient height on a sufficiantly hard surface one or more panels might disassemble themselves from the frame.

So just drop the dice on the ground from shoulder height and a panel should pop off. The fit between the frame and the panels will get looser after multiple disassemblys.

If you don't want the dice to be able to disassemble itself then, first of, why are you reading the disassembly guide? Second: Just glue the panels in with superglue making sure to avoid contact with the glue as much as possible (the bottle is fine though :) ). Print the thing in PLA since I don't know if superglue works well with other materials. Or just try a different material (I am not your mom).

Please read:
If you use OrcaSlicer, you can just open the file "all components OrcaSlicer NA020001" [3mf], where all the comoponents are loaded ready to print. It is the same profile I uploaded here for Bambu Studio. The files contain panels that are translucent, meant to be used with transparent filament and a maximum volumetric flow of around 3mm³/s. If you don't want to use transparent filament but still want to be able to read the numbers, then the opal panels are for you. The opal panels are also easier to print with printers that don't do multicolor (just print the numbers first as a seperate model using a first layer height of 0.2mm). When printing transparent, set the wall count very high or print with 100% concentric infill. That is generally a good idea, since Infill may not be symmetrical and may influence weight distribution slightly. A line width of 0.4mm and a layer height of 0.1mm are recommended, but a layer height of 0.2mm should work fine too. Good luck if you use different settings. Not that I haven't told you :)

In short:
- use OrcaSlicer or Bambu Studio for the easiest experience
- translucent panels only for transparent filament (limit flow rate to 3mm³/s)
- 0.4mm line width and 0.1mm or 0.2mm layer height
- high wall count and/or 100% concentric infill
- push the panels in with the backside of a pair of tweezers
- shake the dice to make shure the panels are in all the way in (the panels are meant to be recessed slightly and the core shouldn't move much inside the dice)


What the project ID tells you about this project (here: NA020001):

project ID system

structure
project ID: aabbcccc
aa - creator ID / abbreviation of creator name
bb - level of difficulty
cccc - number of project in the difficulty level

difficulty levels
01 - entirely 3D printed in one part
02 - 3D printed in multiple parts (may need glue or printer calibration)
03 - 3D printed and only needs (standard) mounting hardware
04 - 3D printed but needs additional mechanical parts
05 - some parts are not meant to be 3D printed -> additional material and tools may be required
06 - requires electronics, but no soldering or programming
07 - requires electronics and soldering skills
08 - requires electronics as well as programming skills and may need to be soldered
09 - may require modification of the model or different additional hardware depending on usecase
10 - requires extensive knowledge and skills

example
dice "crystal" - a modular fair dice with seperate panels: NA020001 (Norden Atelier, first model that is 3D printed in multiple parts)