Active Heating System - Bambu X1C / P1P by Costa

Costa

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(1)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

36 min

1 plate

4.0(2)

Boost

Released

Description

Active Heating System - Bambu X1C / P1P

Bambu X1C / P1P Activated Carbon Filter System - with Active Heating Element

https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/COSTATECHNICDESIGN/3d-printers-equipments-and-accessories

Upgrade 22 March 2024 - New version is available now, however, Not For Free!!!

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/active-carbon-system-medium-plus-with-heater-bambu-x1c-p1p

This design IS NOT ENDORSED by Bambu!

Some 'Special Filaments' may require a higher temperature than 60 degrees Celsius. However, it's essential to keep in mind that these high temperatures add additional stress to your equipment. Once we have 3D printers with integrated cooling systems for the stepper motors and all parts positioned in the Active Heated Chamber are full metal and heat proffed, we can push the temperatures even higher... till then ... moderation is the rule we must follow!

Based on Previous Experience: Few years ago, I built an Active Heat Chamber, and used a Creality CR10S with it. I realized that beyond 60 degrees Celsius, the filament becomes too soft to get push through the Bowden Tube, resulting in a print failure. It's worth noting that I did not have a Direct Drive Printer Head at that time.

Vers. 1

The Temperature Controller Sensor will monitor the Temperature in the Printing Chamber and will be activated or deactivated accordingly. Set the ON system to a conservative temperature, let's say, 50-55 degrees Celsius. When the temperature reaches 50-55 degrees Celsius in the Printing Chamber, the system will start. Set the OFF temperature to 60 degrees Celsius. The Heating System will be turned off each time the target temperature is reached.

When the print is complete and the printer automatically switches off, since the Heating System can't keep the Printing Chamber at the set temperature without the boost from the print plate, it will be out of range and therefore turned off.

Monitor the system closely and check if it is functioning properly! Play with different Temperature Setting to find the best solution for you!

Vers. 2

You realize that due to the SMALL Power of the Heating element, the temperature in the printing chamber will increase by only a few degrees during the continuous run of the Heating System, and the Temperature Controller becomes just a safety backup for the system!

Therefore, set Controller... ON at 40-45 degrees and OFF at 60-65 degrees—a temperature that will never be reached!

Vers. 3

You will need to connect the Temperature Controller Sensor to the Printer Print Plate. Set the ON system to the temperature plate (minus 5-10 degrees) you have set for that respective print. Set the OFF system to 5-10 degrees below the ON settings. This way, the Heating System will be activated and deactivated by the Printer Print Plate.

Monitor the temperature in your Printing Chamber! It is not recommended to exceed 60 degrees Celsius!

It use a 100-200W heating Element connected to a Temperature Controller as W3001.

You do not need to alter your printer, except for the hole where the electrical cables will exit the printer... and the hole for Thermal Sensor (14mm holes). The heater unit can be glued to the printer floor with adhesive velcro / double tape or plain super glue/silicone!

WARNING! When Print Table is on SAME LEVEL as Heating Unit is recommended that Heating System to be SWITCH OFF ... or closely monitor the platform... for any signs of damage!
A Limit Switch/Proximity Sensor should be integrated for this function!

Two Countersunk Bolts M4 16mm with Lock Nuts are required to secure the Heater on its Support.

This KIT is for personal use only! Please read our policy! If you do not agree, please do not download this product! Failure to comply with our policy will result in the immediate termination of your user license! Do not alter or modify for resale, sharing with others, making it public, or redistributing in any form, digital or physical, including digital content such as images, DXF, STL files, etc. Do not sell, share, make it public, or redistribute it in its current form. Do not sell the final product! You will need a Commercial License to sell this final product! For a commercial license, please contact us!

Thank you for your interest in our product!

THE ONE PRINTING THE ACTIVE HEATING SYSTEM IS ENTIRELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INCIDENT OR ACCIDENT RESULTING FROM USING THIS DESIGN!

YOU MAY LOSE YOUR WARRANTY IF USING THIS SYSTEM!

ENSURE THAT THE HEATING SYSTEM DO NOT RESTRICT THE MOVEMENT OF THE PRINTING PLATFORM!

ALWAYS FOLLOW THE RULES AND REGULATIONS REGARDING ELECTRIC APPLIANCES FROM YOUR COUNTRY. ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS NEED TO BE DONE BY A CERTIFIED ELECTRICIAN!

WE DO NOT ASSUME ANY RESPONSIBILITY!

USE YOUR JUDGMENT!

Stay safe, be safe and be happy!

DESIGN TO PRINT ! BY COSTA!

I DO NOT ENDORSE ANY E-STORE PLATFORMS! USED AS A REFERENCE ONLY!

ALL PARTS SHOWN FOR THIS 3D PRINTER WERE PURCHASED WITH MY OWN MONEY!

See link below!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003978214928.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.142e3e5fYU5fLa&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%21US%20%2422.32%21US%20%2411.74%21%21%21%21%21%402141112417055417401874410e1eb0%2112000027623927661%21im%21%21

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006407654704.html?pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%21US%20%247.00%21US%20%247.00%21%21%21%21%21%402141005d17056294588893766e1547%2112000037056399993%21im%21%21

Comment & Rating (13)

@Elessar3141

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

worked very well 👍 I also bought the full set on cluts (and modified it slightly for my use)

The designer has replied

@costadesign

Hi Elessar, thank you for choosing my design and posting your project! Keep in mind that having the sensor positioned on top of the printer ... it will give you always a higher temperature reading, than on the bottom of the printer! Regards! Costa

(Edited)

@costadesign

Replying to @costadesign :

Hi, My last design of a 3d Printer Heating Unit... with an Active Carbon Filter incorporated! It use the "old" components ... heater/temperature controller. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/active-carbon-system-medium-plus-with-heater-bambu-x1c-p1p

@Elessar3141

Hi, I have actually noticed a problem: I think the position of the heating element is bad. if the heater runs a little longer (heating up the print chamber), the fan switches off after a few minutes because it gets too warm. if i place the heating element in the centre of the chamber as a test, the fan runs as expected for a long period of time. I assume that the fan cannot move enough air due to the extremely small distance to the outer wall. do you have an idea how to fix that? thanks

The designer has replied

@costadesign

Hi, Please take the time and look at the photos I post , the motor must be mounted on the exterior of the bracket ... so it will be a good flow of air! Anyway ... all problems are solved now ... a new design , having the motor in to a loop pipe ... see the new photos! The control box was design that cables are passing through the connecting bolts ... and you do not need to have the wire laid all around. If you do not want to have a hole in your printer ... I can understood!

(Edited)

@Elessar3141

Hi, have you realised in the meantime whether this really has a positive effect on the printing process?

The designer has replied

@costadesign

Hi Elessar, When printing with filaments what are not warping due to the internal stress ... as PLA and PETG ... you do not need an active heat chamber. When using filament as ASA or ABS ... you need an enclosure on your printer ... an active heating chamber is welcome if printing large part what have a lot of internal tensions due to variations of temperature. Myself I raise the Bed Temperature to 110 ... and I am ok at this stage! If you are looking to print "specials filaments" ... with Carbon Fiber inclusion ... raising the temperature in printing chamber is a MUST! Of course ... high temperature add a lot of stress to all 3d printer components ... it will require water cooling stepermottors ... and all components to be heat proof ... what make the printer to enter in to a different category! Based on Previous Experience: Few years ago, I built an Active Heat Chamber, and used a Creality CR10S with it. I realized that beyond 60 degrees Celsius, the filament becomes too soft to get push through the Bowden Tube, resulting in a print failure. It's worth noting that I did not have a Direct Drive Printer Head at that time. The wall on that printing chamber was composed of 3 layers ... 4mm dual wall polycarbonate ... 40mm extruded polystyrene ... 4mm dual wall polycarbonate! The window was made with two 4mm plexiglass with an air gap of 40mm! Did my enclosure had a positive effect on my prints ... 100%! I was able to print large projects without the problems generated by delamination and warping! And not to forget... let the part to cool down naturally into the 3d printer. Never take out a part when is still hot! Is not visible ... however, you will have structural damage (micro cracks) to the part ... Some "bake" the finish components to eliminate any internal tensions! Regards Costa

(Edited)

@user_3008551447

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Other Issues:Part dimensions not fit well to the machine.

The designer has replied

@costadesign

Hi Ben, the part is not fitting well? Did you print it ... or just decided ... by eye ... that "part dimensions not fit well to the machine" ?

(Edited)

@user_3008551447

Replying to @costadesign :

Hello printed in PC (maybe a difference with your profile ?) and the L hole shape does not fit well with the shape of the machine. I have removed 2 or 3 mm and now it fits. Not sure if it must be clipped or if you stick it with glue on the bottom of the machine. thanks.

@costadesign

Replying to @user_3008551447 :

I do not know why ... however, I do not believe you! The part you talk about ... before I posted to this site, was printed and tested. It fitt well ... and I am talking about an unit with a motor installed on! I have a X1C. Have a look at all photos posted with the design. And more important ... take the time to read the info...

(Edited)

@F12bof

Bonjour, Avez vous vus des changement sur la qualité des impressions ?

The designer has replied

@costadesign

Bonjour, Je n'ai pas encore testé ce système ; j'attends toujours une mèche de perceuse adaptée ! Pour imprimer de l'ABS, de l'ASA, ou des "matériaux spéciaux", l'utilisation d'une chambre chauffée de manière active est essentielle. Afin de prévenir la délamination intercouche ou le gauchissement lors de l'impression d'ABS, je règle généralement la température de mon lit chauffant à 110 degrés Celsius, transformant ainsi mon "imprimante chauffée passivement" en un environnement plus "vivable". Certains "filaments spéciaux" peuvent nécessiter une température plus élevée que 60 degrés Celsius. Cependant, il est essentiel de garder à l'esprit que ces températures élevées ajoutent du stress supplémentaire à votre équipement. Une fois que nous aurons des imprimantes 3D avec des systèmes de refroidissement intégrés pour les moteurs pas à pas, et que toutes les pièces positionnées dans la chambre chauffée active seront en métal complet et résistant à la chaleur, nous pourrons pousser les températures encore plus haut... d'ici là, la modération est la règle que nous devons suivre ! Sur la base de mon expérience précédente : il y a quelques années, j'ai construit une chambre de chauffe active et l'ai utilisée avec une Creality CR10S. J'ai réalisé qu'au-delà de 60 degrés Celsius, le filament devient trop mou pour être poussé à travers le tube de Bowden, entraînant un échec d'impression. Il est à noter que je n'avais pas de tête d'impression à entraînement direct à l'époque. Cordialement.

(Edited)

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License

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