INTRODUCTION:

After seeing various AMS stand designs for Bambu printers I started thinking about a bit different approach to a riser: It should require less filament and preferably recycle materials that I already have from earlier times when I was building 3D printers more of as DIY.

So, I came up to a construction where AMS riser’s main frame would consist of common aluminum 2020 profiles. Footprint of a X1 Carbon (and as far as I know also other printers in that family) happened to match with my old, decommissioned delta printer in such way that I could salvage the needed profiles (300 mm long) mostly as is. Only two of them needed to be shortened. Because of the slotted aluminum profiles, you’ll naturally need amounts of screws and nuts to put everything together, but such hardware is usually cheap and quite readily available.

Even if this simpler “Meccano style” construction might not look like as sophisticated as the fully printed ones I nevertheless think it can – by taking advantage of its certain modularity and the numerous t-slots available on the profiles - act as base for further developments and new additions in case other makers and remixers are interested.

This is also the reason why no additional parts, for instance extra stands for the glass hatch or lighting system, are not provided this time. I think one could realize them quite easy as bolt-ons. There are however some ready-made reservations for instance for LED strips' wiring in form of a ‘cable routes’ through the corner blocks.

Before building the riser, please check the BOM and read through the instructions to see how to proceed.

BOM:

-2020 profile L = 300 mm 6 pcs (from a delta printer’s frame as is)

-2020 profile L = 230 mm 2 pcs. (from a delta printer’s frame, cut to length)

-Screws (inner hex socket types with circular head are recommended)

M5 x 10 56 pcs.

M5 x 16 4 pcs.

M5 x 25 8 pcs.

-M5 nuts 68 pcs. (normal hex nut DIN 934 or M5 T-Slot nuts for 2020 profile)

-Printed corner blocks 8 pcs. (see the files)

-Printed side spacers 2 pcs. (see the files)

-Self adhesive sealing strip ~1,5 m (for instance EPDM foam rubber 5 x 15 mm, cut to suitable lengths)

PRINTING:

NOTE 1: Step files are provided for better quality prints and further developments. I’m kindly asking you not use the models or remixes for commercial purposes or publish anything without referring to this original design.

NOTE 2: Seats for 2020 profiles in corner blocks are modeled to be exactly 20x20 mm. So be sure your extrusion is calibrated to work dimensionally correctly. Screw holes in models are 4.9 mm in diameter.

Corner blocks and side spacers should be printed in orientation where faces highlighted with green color in the picture “FRONT” are laid on printing plate. I recommend printing the parts with adequate number of walls so that at least the corner blocks’ sides with screw holes would be formed as solid material. Brims around bottom corner blocks might be needed to ensure adequate plate adhesion also for the narrow portions in models.

Supports are needed at least for the top corner blocks but I recommend using them in all parts, in order to get also the profile side guiding shoulders printed sharply. Tree type supports work well with default settings but instead automatic use the manual mode and paint only the needed surfaces to avoid creating unnecessary supports for holes (see the picture “SUPPORTS”). Do not tick “On build plate only” option.

Slice and print the models otherwise with your favorite settings and material taking into account that they will be load bearing parts and might also see elevated temperatures. In addition to this some additional dynamic stresses can be present due to movements during printing. So, if you are planning to print fast and/or use high printing temperatures select the filament and slicer’s strength settings accordingly.

After printing take your time and carefully trim away all support and brim materials especially from profile seating surfaces. Accordingly, remove sharp edges from the aluminum profiles’ ends.

If you can’t seat the 2020s in corner blocks by hand and with moderate force, stop and find out what could cause it. Wedging or hammering the profiles in will most probably crack the parts sooner or later.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Slide M5 nuts inside 5 pcs. of 300 mm long profiles’ center slots and attach them to the bottom blocks (light green parts in the picture “STAGE 1”). Attach in that assembly both top-back corners (purple parts) and the one additional 300 mm profile between them.

NOTE 1: If you are using normal hex nuts then before starting the assembly slide in two additional nuts on both sides for later use (cyan parts).

NOTE 2: Do not tighten the screws more than is needed to keep them engaged in nuts.

1. Lift AMS unit and the glass hatch off from the printer and place the riser assembly in place of the hatch. Rectangular shaped corner blocks will point to front of the printer.
2. Push the profiles against the printer’s metal walls in lateral and longitudinal direction so that no slack remains between the profiles and printer.
3. Tighten as many of the bottom corners’ screws as possible while keeping the riser on printer. Then take it away and tighten rest of the bottom screws, if needed. DO NOT overdo.
4. Attach sealing strips on top of the profiles and bottom corners (see the photo).
5. Slide nuts into the one remaining 300 mm profile and connect the top-front corner blocks together with it. Then attach both 230 mm profiles into the corners (see the picture “STAGE 2”). Leave also all these screws loose.
6. Slide necessary nuts into the free ends of 230 mm profiles and attach the previously formed ‘sub-assembly’ together with top-back corners (see picture “STAGE 3”). No screws tightening yet.
7. Put a side spacer between lower profile and the top-front corner block’s ‘leg’ with screw holes aligned (yellow parts in the picture “STAGE 4”). There should be available the two free nuts in the profile’s slot mentioned at point 1. Align the nuts and run two screws through the parts. Do the same on other side.
8. The riser should now be completely assembled, and your last job is to tighten rest of the screws after making sure the upper profiles are well seated inside the corner blocks.

Note that this riser will locate the AMS unit some 110 mm higher compared to its original location on glass hatch. So, it’s better to check that the PTFE tube coming from AMS is still long enough to allow a smooth path for filaments.

Hope you’ll have fun building and using this riser!

DISCLAIMER:

The information provided here has been researched to the best of the author’s knowledge and belief and is provided as is. Because of hobbyist nature of the proposed construction there is no guarantee about its suitability to intended or any other use, or about its structural integrity during any period of time. The author cannot therefore be held responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or other negative result from building or using the proposed construction.