M6 & M10 Dry Box sealed passthrough Screw by Meister Edel

Meister Edel

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(1)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

All Versions

Designer

1.2 h

4 plates

5.0(1)

Boost

Released

Description

Simple sealed passthrough with M6/ M10 Push fittings.
I highly recommend the M10 verison over the M6 one.

O-Ring: 14x2,5 mm or print the sealing with a very soft filament.

This Passthrough is specaial because it will allow you to insert the filament through the Passtrough without anny clogging. A problem I had with any other passthroughs I tested yet.

PS: Here I have a fitting Cap for your PTFE Tubes:
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/98167-ptfe-tube-cap-to-keep-the-filament-dry-tube-holder

Update 2022: increased the tolerance for the Filament passthrough (1,8 mm -> 1,9 mm)
Added a Version for M6 push fittings.
Update 2024: Added a Version for 2,5 mm PTFE tubes (like Bambulab uses)

Comment & Rating (9)

@Haraise_Tenshi

It seems you messed up the Files. The M6 Fittings are on the Buildplate called M10 and vice versa.

The designer has replied

@MeisterEdel

ty :D That is true! I reuploaded a new print file with a newer ersion for 2,5 mm tubes ,-)

@Kampflafer

The print profile is no longer public

Other Issues:Threads are too tight, printed with Bambulab Basic PLA on my P1s

The designer has replied

@MeisterEdel

Hey sorry to heat that you have problems. I printed man of them and had no issues at all. What threads are you referring too? The ones for the push fittings can feel tight but should secure the fittings just fine. (Better than loose)

@Kampflafer

The M10 are fine but I can't screw the two pieces together. I will reprint them but for now I just tapped the plastic lid of my dry box and screwed the M10 fitting into it.

@ZeroAlligator

Replying to @MeisterEdel :

It was a little snug for me too, but after working the threads in/out a few times it went together perfectly. I'm sure this has to do with the amount of dimensional shrinkage the filament you're using has.