P1S Nozzle Light Mod

P1S Nozzle Light Mod

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P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
19 min
1 plate
4.9(8)

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Description

I made this little mod for the P1S to add more light to the nozzle area.

⚙️ Printer Settings

Wall Generator Arachne
Wall Loops 3
Infill Gyroid 15%
Brim None
Supports None

Since the parts are so small it is a good idea to use “Silent” mode to give layers more time to cool.
Make sure you use a filament that can withstand 60c temps. I recommend using PETG-CF. Regular PETG will work too.

🏗️ Installation

Short tutorial video showing how to assemble and wire the nozzle light.

The tutorial video shows my P1S Cable Channel Covers in use. If you want to print your own to help manage the wiring you can find the STLs here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/57136

The top glass riser I use in the video is this one:
https://www.printables.com/model/569595-bambulab-top-glass-riser-4-cob-led

 

❌ No Riser/LED Strip installed Or LED Strip Is Not 5V?

If you do not have 5v LED strips in your P1S already that you can connect to for power there are a few options available.

 

💡 USB PORT METHOD 💡

You can plug directly into the USB port on the inside of the P1S. If you are already using the USB port for something else it is possible to use a splitter. I tested a simple USB splitter and was able to power my LED strips and an XTouch touchscreen from the one USB port in the build chamber. Here is a pic of the splitter I tested. Note that it only splits power NOT data. We only need the 5v power so that is fine for this purpose. The USB port in the P1S build chamber supports 1.5a according to the sticker on it. So don't go above that when plugging in multiple devices. I found that the LED strips in my top glass riser draw about 1.02a total.

USB Power Splitter

 

💡 LIGHT BAR METHOD 💡
The second option would be to splice it into the stock led bar, which is also 5v. This would have the added benefit of turning on and off when using the light on/off button in the GUI. You can make your own cables to plug into the stock light bar port by using JST GH 1.25mm connectors. I was able to order them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PBHN7TM
The research I did suggested that the stock light bar port can handle up to 350ma. So keep that in mind when using it to power other things. The 15mm LED strip added by this mod has very little power draw and should be fine.

Light bar plug type (JST GH 1.25mm)

Stock light bar plug location

(Right-Click > "Open Image in New Tab" to zoom in)

 

💡 LAST RESORT METHOD 💡
The third and last option would be to run the wiring out of the case and power it however you see fit.

🧱 Materials

This is the 5v USB COB LED Strip I use in the tutorial video:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XDJT1B5/

COB LED Strip with diffuser removed. 5 LEDs = 15mm. Cut to this length.

 

👑 ETC.

I designed this model for fun. Don't forget to leave me a thumbs up and 5 stars. Thanks!

I am still pretty new to CAD so any tips or critiques are more than welcome.

 

Designed with LOVE in Fusion 360

I ❤️ My Bambu!

Comment & Rating (16)

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i just printed the LED piece because the cable holder is not necessary and just adds weight to the toolhead. wireing was a bit of work but in the end it was worth it. the nozzle light is a great improvement!
3
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Easy and accurate print.
The designer has replied
1
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I appreciate the rating but I think you may have mixed up your models hehe. This is for my P1S Nozzle Light. The pictured model is not one of my designs.
(Edited)
2
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Apologies, I am new to Bambu. I have downloaded your print and am just waiting for the lights to arrive.
(Edited)
1
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
printed great
0
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What is the width of the LED?
The designer has replied
0
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8mm is the width I used.
0
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Replying to @RoyalT :
thanks you
0
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Will this work on the X1C toolhead?
The designer has replied
1
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It has not been tested on an X1C but as far as I know it should work. You may need to route the wire a little different since the x1's have a light in the tool head cover to make the lettering glow. EDIT: After thinking about it a bit, I would bet money that the light in the X1's tool head is 5v too. If that is the case you could splice into that power and not have to bother routing the wiring through the cable chain. If anyone tests this please let me know!
(Edited)
3
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Printed well in BL ABS Black.
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0
Reply