Legion Go Modular Controller Adapter

Legion Go Modular Controller Adapter

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Print Profile(1)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
4.1 h
2 plates
3.9(13)

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Released

Description

Description

 

Modular controller adapter for the Legion Go. The rails for the left and right controller are printed separately and connected to the body with M3 screws / nuts (8mm length). You can design your own body and screw the rails onto that, or use one of the bodies included in this project. My intent was to decouple the rails and body to improve high tolerance printing, as well as allowing for more rapid body prototyping. The bonus is that you can create your own body and have multiple bodies for different scenarios.

 

I encourage people to make their own bodies for use with the rails if they are so inclined, and to share them (non-commercial).

 

Your feedback is important to me. Constructive critiques will improve the design.

 

Printing Instructions

 

The rails are high tolerance to give a solid feel when the controllers are attached. I printed on a Bambu X1C. As such there is a 3mf file included that is ready to print.

 

The rails should be printed with the open side up and separately from the body. This method requires the least amount of support (which is necessary for the tabs in the opening). Printing this way ensures very clean top and bottom layers needed for connection, and additionally ensures good round holes for the screws.

 

The body can be printed standing up, or laying flat. Laying flat give the best overall quality for the version with the logo, but will look a bit grainy (you can see this in the pictures). For the version without the logo, upright tends to work better as the top will be much smoother, however this will tend to have a negative impact on the bottom curvature and the cutout part of the logo. That said, tweaking variable layer heights, using a finer nozzle, and various other settings can improve quality significantly.

 

Assembly

 

There are slots on the underside of the body for M3 hex nuts. It may be a snug fit which is necessary for them to remain stationary for fastening. It is easier to assemble one rail at a time.

 

Looking at rails with the longest side pointing left / right, and the opening on top

One side of the opening will have a tiny notch cutout. This is the “top” of the rail.

The other side will be flat on its edge, but have two small notches on either side of the cutout. This is the “bottom” of the rail.

The top will be attached on the short part of the body, the bottom to the long.

The single notch on the top of the rail should always attached closest to the underside of the body. It is the only distinction between the left and right versions of the rails.

 

Other Tools / Equipment

 

The screws and nuts I use can be purchased here:

DYWISHKEY 360 Pieces M3 x 6mm/8mm/10mm/12mm/16mm/20mm, 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Kit with Hex Wrench: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

Model Details

 

The exterior dimensions of the rails are: 130.5mm x 14.6mm x 8.6mm.

The outer screws are 15mm from the edge.

The middle screw is exactly centered.

All screw are countersunk 0.75mm from the surface they touch.

 

There are blanks included for the rails and bodies (no fastener holes cut) for those that would prefer to use them in their own models.

Comment & Rating (17)

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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Great design, fits perfectly. But the slight bow underneath produces support structures from hell! It took me quite some time to get rid of it, although I used support material.
(Edited)
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Amazing! my controller fit perfectly! I turned on fuzzy skin and top layer ironing and the results couldn't be better. almost looks like it was injection moulded.
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Hey thank you for sharing this. I have a X1C too. I just finished printing the rails however the supports are kinda hard to remove, I'm using support for pla filament and basic pla. Any tricks or advise?
The designer has replied
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patience and time. the smallest tool you have is what I'd use. it takes a while to get them out clean but it's such a high tolerance thing that it has to be like that. I used fine tipped clippers.
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Replying to @RICoder :
I was able to make it work by using white PETG for supports. They came out easily. Thank you!
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
feels great in the hands took me a while to review because I wanted to really test it lol
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Works well, the angle is ok, but not my thing, thanks for the file
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
It is a nice design, but I would say that having AMS is a big requirement, so one can print the supports in a different material, for example PLA with PETG.
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Tried printing different ways (position) and finish is poor. Removing supports leads to a lot of time cleaning and preparing. controllers don’t fit to stay on without modification.
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the screw holes are too loose to fit m3 and I try other models that's also m3 it fits fine
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
does not work every time I have printed it no matter the orientation or supports. I used support filament also
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
1
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