Printed mini arcade machine by Archer

Archer

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P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill for AMS

Designer

32.9 h

15 plates

4.9(27)

0.2mm layer, 15% Grid infill

Designer

31.2 h

16 plates

4.5(4)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

2.5 h

1 plate

4.8(5)

Joystick Adapter Plate for Sanwa JLX Series; 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill

38 min

1 plate

5.0(1)

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Description

Description:

A mini bartop arcade machine printed with a 3D printer is a compact and stylish device designed to provide an authentic retro gaming experience.

Features:

Compact Design
The arcade machine features a bartop-style compact design, meaning it is small enough to be placed on a table or counter. Its reduced size makes it perfect for limited spaces, such as living rooms or desks.
4:3 Screen
The arcade machine's screen features a 4:3 aspect ratio, providing an authentic retro gaming experience. This is ideal for classic games that were originally designed with this proportion, avoiding distortions and maintaining visual fidelity.
High-Quality Sanwa Controls
The control system incorporates a joystick and buttons from the Sanwa brand, renowned for offering some of the best controls in the arcade machine market. Sanwa joysticks are known for their smoothness and precision, providing a precise and comfortable gaming experience.
Connections and Connectivit
It includes 2 USB ports for easy connection to other devices and peripherals such as additional controllers.
Wide Game Compatibility
The machine is compatible with a wide variety of retro games thanks to its versatile design. It can emulate systems such as NES, SNES, Sega Genesis, MAME, and more, offering users a broad selection of classic titles.
Customizable LED Lighting
The arcade machine can include customizable LED lighting to add an attractive visual touch. The LEDs can be adjusted to different colors, creating a retro and modern atmosphere at the same time.
Integrated Sound System with Powerful Subwoofer
The mini arcade machine features an integrated sound system that includes a powerful subwoofer. This subwoofer speaker enhances the sound quality by providing deep and powerful bass. This feature contributes to a more immersive gaming experience, bringing retro sound effects and music to life with exceptional audio quality, adding an extra element of realism to the gaming experience.
Assembly Manual
Complete manual that provides detailed instructions for the assembly of the machine, covering both the assembly of the printed parts and the connection of the electronics.

Links to electronic parts (Click on the images to go to the link) Updated 27-12-2023

The links only work from the website, the Handy app only opens the images

LG Display LCD 4:3 1024x768 9.7" LP097X02 KIT Select item “AudioDrive A and LCD”

Power supply 12v 2A 24W

Power supply 12v 12.5A 150W Select item "DC12V 12.5A 150W"

12V to 5V step down with micro-usb output connector Select item: Micro USB
Audio amplifier board

Zero delay Arcade USB encoder

Speaker Line 3.5mm Aux Audio Noise Filter Ground Loop Noise Isolator
Recommended filter to eliminate noise generated by the Raspberry Pi itself, placed between the Raspberry Pi and the audio amplifier.

Subwoofer 3" 25W Select item 4 Ohm 25W Speaker

Speakers 30x70 5W

Dual USB extension
Power plug connector with switch fused

Installation software guide:

In the following video, you can see how to correctly set up your microSD card with the Batocera environment.

Warning: There is an error in the materials list. The power supply described as "Power supply 12V 3A 36W S-36-12" is incorrect. The correct model for the power supply is "Power supply 12V 2A 24W S-24-12.

arcade

bartop

videogame

Documentation (1)

Assembly Guide (1)

Assembly manual_3c3e277e-7ef4-4ad7-bd0a-f1ae62781aff.pdf

Comment & Rating (267)

@zoccer22

This is an amazing design and build. Everything goes together really well. Its really nice that the inserts are specially spaced for each part, so its difficult to get the parts into the wrong place (nice touch). I chose to use glow filament from Bambu that prints yellow and glows green instead of the original green (camera exaggerates how strong it glows a little bit, in the picture), and a chameleon for the main body color. A few suggestions from changes I made in my build: The internal parts are not visible from the outside (listed below). So I changed their color and reorganized the plates, by color, so I could use a generic filament for them from leftovers. LCD Controller Frame Electronic Frame Electric Panel Joystick Adapter USB Encoder Support All of the LED Parts The only other thing I did was add text to the marquee instead of using vinyl or something else. This made it so if I chose not to use the LEDs I would have a nice text marquee using the built in text generator in BambuStudio. One could also find a SVG of a game title and use that by extending the text up to 5mm. I provided pictures of BambuStudio and final product for the diffuser mod, in case anyone else doesn't want to use LEDs or just prefers text instead. Thanks again @Archer for uploading, this was really awesome to print and assemble. I will upload the finished build once all of the parts come in.

(Edited)

@decrignis.sasch

Hey, amazing build. Can you tell where you got the display? For me in germany the Ali link doesn´t exist anymore.

@zoccer22

Replying to @decrignis.sasch :

I utilized the AliExpress link. I just confirmed I was able to reach the AliExpress link mentioned by @Spider02011 and here is a shortened url as well: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800339353006.html (Remember to choose AudioDrive A and LCD). I did check the German AliExpress site and did note it was missing this specific item number (de.aliexpress.com). I have two suggestions: 1. You can change your location on AliExpress to US, and still leave your language to your preferred language. This should allow you to shop the US store and get shipping to Germany, hopefully. 2. Open an Incognito browser and ensuring your location is not being shared (Settings->Privacy->Location), and hopefully it'll let you visit the US based site and get shipping to Germany as noted on the product page ("France / Spain / Germany may take 7-20 working days."). If AliExpress isn't working for you, unfortunately its the only place I can see everything packaged together. Otherwise the screen is more expensive and the HDMI controller board with Audio board is hit or miss from what I can tell, and can't guarantee fitment into the print dimensions.

(Edited)

@ashgardiner

Replying to @zoccer22 :

i had to make an additional piece to space the screen correctly you can find it here. https://makerworld.com/en/models/132703#profileId-143883 i wanted to share just the stl for people but i couldn't find a way to do this in the comments

@3dEvangelist

great design ! :D If you want you can print the buttons to! https://makerworld.com/es/models/99645#profileId-106221

The designer has replied

@Archer

Great job! Looks like a nice American type push button.

@ashgardiner

Replying to @Archer :

this is really cool do you have a sourcing guide for the electronics parts like the screen, power supplies, usb boards etc. also you should post links to your blog/Instagram cant seem to find you from your names on the build guide it just keeps coming up with archery stuff lol.

(Edited)

@onkel.maik

Replying to @Archer :

Hallo Archer. Tolle Arbeit! Hättest du auch den Link für das Aiyima Audio Board? Ich kann keins finden, dass dem in der Montageanleitung ähnlich sieht. Vielen Dank!

@Vigo3D

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill for AMS

The best project I found here on Makerworld. I used a Raspberry Pi5 to fire this machine and an other audio controller 😈 Batocera runs excellent and smooth.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Archer

Your arcade looks amazing, congratulations!

(Edited)

@Vigo3D

Replying to @Archer :

thx a lot :) I think I have to turn the screen. Its not perspective stable in this position.

@Streak1232

I was thinking about using a Raspberry Pi5 as well! Where did you find a 12v to usb C at? may be a link if you don't mind 8)

@SPIDER0211

Finished mine. Used carbon fiber build plate to get the effect on the bezel. And I also printed a multicolor lithophane for the marquee. Now it’s 100% 3d printed. Minus the electronics of course.

@LucasWORX

This was my first 3d printing project of this scale on my P1S. I love the way it turned out. I had to make a couple small hole location changes for the power supply but I just drilled them appropriately. This is an absolutely well thought out design. I really appreciate the time that went into the details for this. Nice job and thank you very much for sharing! I love seeing everyone's variations! I went with a Nintendo theme on mine! :)

@projecteae

Great alternate back panel! I was thinking of doing a star or the 1UP mushroom for mine since I grew up more with pac man and mario bros than Galaga haha. Would you mind sharing your alt back panel by chance? I think alt back panels would be great remix add ons, especially for a project like this. Your final build looks awesome!

@Zamby3d

the Nintendo writing is beautiful... can you share it?

@LucasWORX

Replying to @Zamby3d :

Sure! Here is the design: https://makerworld.com/en/models/182757

@RockieOnly1

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill for AMS

The prints came out great! I’m still working on some cable management and will probably switch to a raspberry pi 5 for more power but I got it to a state it can run. Thank you for the awesome model and project and for the help and advice of others on here!

(Edited)

@Tomfazari

will the PSU still be enough for the Pi 5??

@RockieOnly1

Replying to @Tomfazari :

the main power supply that Archer linked can put out 12.5A or 150w at the 12v so it has more then enough power, but the linked buck converter is for MicroUSB and both the Pi 4 & 5 take USB type c connection for power so you will still need a different one. the one I found is basically the same as the linked one but with that USB type C cable so it’s a 5v 3a supply, which is enough for the Pi 5 to run but not enough for it to run in its full power mode, it won’t limit its processor power but it will limit its power to its USB ports and GPIO pins to 600mAmps I think, which could affect and devices you plug in to those ports or maybe a NVMe drive if you use one with a Hat for that. you need to directly supply 5a or more to it and configure a text file on its boot device to tell it it’s ok to override its power limits and that you are supplying it with 5A or more, or have a supply with USB C power delivery protocol with 5A on the 5v option for it to just work automatically, but I haven’t seen any of those that wouldn’t work off of 12v without hacking up a car charger one, but I guess getting the raspberry Pi 5 AC power supply and hooking its AC prongs up to the AC switch instead of the buck converter is an option, but it’s always riskier the more wires you have at full AC line voltage, especially if you leave any metal exposed that’s live at those voltages.

@Tomfazari

Replying to @RockieOnly1 :

Thanks for the reply! It seems apart from the power I also didn't take in to account that the HDMI is Micro! How have you or going to Power the iP5 then? I was contemplating getting a HAT as I have a spare NVME I could use for ROMS so want to make sure I give it enough juice. I didn't realize that it needed more than 3a to run the HAT etc. - This one should be OK then aye? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005816566694.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3f8611d3IrsK5x&algo_pvid=6769b245-8dab-46f3-baa6-b4aa10d4f285&algo_exp_id=6769b245-8dab-46f3-baa6-b4aa10d4f285-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21AUD%218.16%215.96%21%21%215.22%213.81%21%402101fb1417072008506143938e0ce4%2112000034907571960%21sea%21AU%213503080558%21&curPageLogUid=6ZoXA4A45iQJ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A Not sure what the text file thing you mention is all about but assume it's all a part of configurations so I'm sure I could work it out. Thanks again for your time and advise.

(Edited)

@ashgardiner

Ok so my build is 100% complete. killed hours playing it today ;-) one thing to note, you need to go into the RetroPie setup menu, navigate to the “Audio” section and change the audio output mode to Headphones. then go back into the Audio section and go to mixer push F6 on your keyboard and select the headphone audio device and increase it to 100%. once you have done that the thing will go loud and the little sub will really rumble. im really impressed how good the sound it, streets of rage on megadrive really has some punch as does tekken on ps1 the logo at the top i just printed on semi gloss photo paper and stuck it to the diffuser, it may be better if i can print it on some sticky vinyl but its actually about the correct brightness to not over power the screen but still illuminate so i may leave it as it although it is just paper so not protected from little hands. here are some pictures of mine complete this was a really fun build thanks Archer.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Archer

It looks great! Now to enjoy, thank you very much for the feedback.

@RockieOnly1

wait, did you power your Pi off the GPIO pins instead of the usb-c port? I didn’t know you could do that for the pi.

@ashgardiner

Replying to @RockieOnly1 :

Yes I power the pi from the gpio. I also soldered power wires to all boards so nothing can come loose.

@gnosu

Great build. These are the things I added to this one: LCD Marquee Swappable Control Panels with hand tightening screws to keep it in place. Control panels slot in from the top. Housing for Control Panels that have USB on the back so i an plug it into the machine or any PC when not installed IR holes for GUN4Ir light guns Top Nav stick and start and select button for when I have the trackball or spinner installed so I can use it to navigate the menu Rear hinged door that can be removed for easy access Rear microSD card access (Had to remove it for now as it's defective, waiting on a new one to install back in but you can see the hole in the back) Single push button shut off next to audio controls Really fun and awesome model

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@Archer

Great job, congratulations!

@KungFuJoe

This looks awesome! Many years ago I built a full size arcade cabinet with modular/swappable controls for trackball, spinners, etc. Unfortunately, I had to give it away due to lack of space, but now I can try to recreate that in a smaller form factor. Do you have more information on how you got the LCD marquee working and the swappable controls? It's not easy to tell how you went about it from the pics. I had an idea of making the control panel removable from the top and using some JST connectors to allow for easy connecting/disconnecting between controls and the USB encoder. What trackball are you using? I wasn't sure if there would be enough room in the mini cab for a trackball but looks like you got one going. Again...great job!

@gnosu

Replying to @KungFuJoe :

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXL2Q53Y Took off the rear casing and plugged the HDMI into the second HDMI output on the Pi 4 In boot/config.txt I added these lines [HDMI:1] hdmi_group = 2 hdmi_mode=67 hdmi_timings=400 0 100 10 140 1280 10 20 20 2 0 0 0 60 0 43000000 3 I also installed Piemarquee2 from https://github.com/losernator/PieMarquee2 For each image I had to rotate them 90 degrees so that when they were displayed it would take the full screen. I am running retropie because I read the secondary screen won't work in the latest Batocera builds. As for the control panels, I made it simple as each one is a USB-A plug from either the spinner or trackball, both from Thunderstick Studios. The controller plugs into a zero delay board and of course that has a USB cable. I run a USB extension cord from the Pie to the area where the control panels are so when I swap them out all I do is switch the USB cables . There's barely enough room for the trackball, but I am thinking of making a riser for the machine, sticking a NUC inside it, and using that instead of the Pie as it's a ton easier to get this working with a PC than a Pie for stuff like an LCD marquee as well as setting up the Gun4IR lightgun. With a riser there'll be plenty of room for the trackball and anything else that fits on the bottom. Good luck on your build!

@metalhawj

I'm having issues with what I think is the wiring. This is my first big project with so much wiring. When I boot up, nothing turns on at all except the I/O switch in the back. The metal tabs on the I/O switch are different from the diagram too so thats been confusing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I hope the pics help.

@TimTurtle

Hey, i had the same issue at the beginning. Google for "3-Pin rocker switch wiring diagramm" helps me a bit. It seems so, that it depends on the kind of switch you have. I´ve connected a negative cable to the golden connector. So the negative (neutral conductor) is connected to the inlet, the golden connector on the switch and on the inputs of the power transformers. Then i´ve connected the positive cable (phase conductor) from the inlet to the middle pin. At last a cable (phase conductor) from the last pin to the power transformers. I am also a biginner at this, so please use the information with caution. For me it works in germany with 230V. So, i hope that it could help you to solve your issues! Sorry for my bad english...

@TimTurtle

And on your photos it seems that not all cables are correctly divided up to the positive/negative connections. Double check it, before you working on the rocker switch! In worst case the devices on the 12v side will become defective. Red cables or the black one with the white stripes on it, mostly will be positive. White and completely black ones are mostly negative. Google it to be sure. Or better check it with a multimeter

(Edited)

@metalhawj

Replying to @TimTurtle :

Can you share a photo of how the wiring looks like on your end? I suck at this. Actually, found a video that explained what I was looking for. https://youtu.be/f2zCLQk-Wx4?si=cvr0QvqAGbK3Cnya Thanks for the help!

(Edited)

@Zamby3d

Hello, you've really done a great job... I've printed everything and ordered the necessary material. However, I have 30mm buttons from EG STARTS and they're too big and don't fit... Could you provide a website to buy 24mm buttons or if it's possible to modify the button panel... Thank you.

@Frank_v1

Boosted

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! €2,21 19％ Off | SANWA OBSF-24 Round Push Button, Arcade Switch for DIY Joystick Set, PC PS3, Game Parts, Original Japan, Pandora box kit https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ewyryol

(Edited)

@Zamby3d

Replying to @Frank_v1 :

ok thanks...do the buttons above mount 16mm or 12mm instead?

(Edited)

@Frank_v1

Boosted

for these i used Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! €1,52 8％ Off | 6Pcs PBS-33b 2Pin Mini Switch 12mm 12V 1A Waterproof momentary Push button Switch since the reset Non-locking https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwGsenF