Linear rail mod for Prusa mk3
2020/04/21 Updated rev2
- Adjust Square nut slot and blot hole size.
- More compact and stronger Tail and Bridge mounter.
- All part can be printed with out support.
- Can be use with both older sliver and newer black PSU without modify the PSU case. Why
- The Chinese liner rail is cheap and it much stable and quieter than the smooth rod - bushing combo.
- The linear rail look neat.Q/A
- Q : But the Y rod is 330mm, your rail is only 300mm..
- A : Look at the last picture.Parts list
Bolts and washers
- 2x 300mm MGN12 rail
- 3x MGN12C block
- 2x M3x10 bolt
- 10x M3x12 bolt
- 4x M3x15 countershunk bolt
- 6x M3 washer
- 12x M3 spring washer
- 4x 4x10mm spring (or can be cut from ball point pen sping)
- 4x M3 nut
- 4x M4 nut
- 4x M4 washer
- 4x spring washer
- 4x M4 T-nut
- 8x M3 T-nut
- 8x M3x15 bolt
- 8x M3 square nut
- spring washer are optional
### Printable part rev2
2x head mount
- 4x node mount
- 2x tail mount (need to be mirrored in slicer)Installation
- Put m3 nut(nylocs are recommended) into the Tail printed parts.
- Mount the printed parts to the printer frame. Tail parts use M4 bolts.
- Install the Rails using M3x10 bolts. Don't over tighten the bolts, this will make the part to deform.
- Install 2x MGN12C on the left side, 1x MGN12C (MGN12H will also work) on the right side
- Use M3x10 bolt,washer,spring washer to secure the Y carrier to the left block. Make sure it nice and tight.
- Use M1x15 countershunk bolt, 4x10 springx m3 washer to secure the Y carrier to the right blocks. DO NOT tighten the bolts too much, leave it some space to align the block itself.
- I'm too lazy to write the full tutorial, check the pictures for more details.
Print Settings
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Resolution:0.2mm
Infill:
Filament: Any PETG or ABS AnyCategory: 3D Printing Tests