A1/A1 Mini Hub Bowden PTFE Collector:

::DISCLOSURE:: This model was made based on a similar design made by Infinity 3d Prints. https://makerworld.com/en/models/89466#profileId-95886 and I have his full permission to post this similar design. This isnt a remix, This a full on similar design made by me. See attached photos of my renderings for proof.

So first off… Thank you troy at "Infinity 3D Prints" for a great inspiration. I was using his model with no isssues at all other than I yearned for more.. When I load my filament, I do it by hand. I will manually load a new spool and feed the filament to the hotend by pushing it manually. I dont prefer to waste time or filament by loading and unloading via the LCD or Studio interface. Upon doing this the first time.. I had realized I lost the ability to physically look and see how close my filament was to the hub.. which was a buzzkill in my opinion. So I decided I wanted to add windows.

Upon re-designing the collector I was staring at , I felt I also wanted to add a few other QOL improvements to further improve upon the existing designs available online.. I personally felt that chamfered incoming edges would eliminate and sharp edges that might chew up the tubes as the a1 zings around printing models. We all know that sometimes the tubes get pulled to the side a bit more than we'd prefer.. which could in turn lead to un-needed stress and chaffing on the tubes themselves.. So I chamfered the edges of the inbound side of the collector.

I also added fingers to the inside of the model to ensure positive engagment of the stop mechanism that prevents this model from dropping to far when being installed. If the model doesnt stop as it should, it could lead to issues such as the tangle protection not working properly. Thus, small fingers were added in each corner at the correct height to ensure it would stop where its supposed to and not drop below the safe operation area.

My next concern was yet again another chaffing area.. I wanted to add more surface area where the tubes met the collector itself. Inside the throat of the collector, I lengthened the contact area so no sharp edges or short ledges were present. The exiting edge of the throat is also chamfered to aid in anti-chaffing practices.

As for changes, this sums up all I did and, felt the need to do, to help ensure a longer lasting life of my PTFE bowden tubes. As I had said, troys design was working fine.. I just wanted to change and modify a few things!

HOW TO PRINT!?

Ive printed this model about 10 different times in different manners. Everything from 0.08 layer height, up to 0.24 layer height.. Regardless of how you print it, it works fine. What do I recommend? I personally recommend fast and dirty! (figure of speech..) 0.24 layer height, with 6 walls and 4 top/bottom layers, 5-10mm brim with NO AIR GAP, and slow down to 40% for any perimiter smaller than 15mm. The included profile will print in that manner and print slow as to avoid knocking the model over. This aint no race.. lol

Finished model will take like 36 minutes to make roughly, and consume about 4.6grams of filament.

ADDED BONUS!!!:

This will also work with the 4-1 splitters that bambu sells! This model CAN help keep the tubes organized and prevent ams pullback errors!

Post a make, leave a comment, and for the love of all things holy, dont be reporting this as a copyright infringment.. ive spoken to troy and I can provided our transcripts if needed!

Enjoy and happy printing!

-WagZ-