Summary

Full 3D View

The Ferrari 553 was raced in the 1953 and 1954 seasons. It wasn't particularly successful, but it won the Spanish Grand Prix at the end of the 1954 season. It was very pretty, though. It was nicknamed "Supersqualo" (super shark) because of it's widened, rounded body shape.

BONUS: The car is pictured with show wheels and tires, not legal for racing. Models are included for the show wheels and tires, in case you'd like to use them. (The larger tires obviously are intended for the rear.)

What is a "pinewood derby car shell"?

A pinewood derby is an event created by the Boy Scouts many years ago. Each scout is given a pinewood derby kit typically consisting of a block of wood with slots for axles, 4 wheels, and 4 nails to be used as axles. The scout (and his dad, usually) will then carve the block of wood into the shape of a car, paint it and apply stickers, install the wheels on the axles, and then race it at the "derby", which involves a sloped track with a timekeeping apparatus.

An official scout derby will usually require that the parts in the kit be used for cars entered in the derby. Other organizations (including workplaces) often hold derbies, too, and some of them require the use of the parts in the box, including the block of wood.

These "pinewood derby car shells" are intended to be used with an official derby wood block, cut down to size, along with the axles and wheels included in the kit. A printable model of the shaped wood block is provided. You can either use the printed model or use it to accurately cut an official wood block down to size.

Print Settings

Notes:

• Car body: Supports are required. I have provided a "miniraft" version for other cars, but my Bambu Lab printer doesn't need it, so I didn't create one this time. If someone needs it, I'm happy to create one.
• Windshield: I printed this using clear PLA in vase mode with a brim.
• Exhaust pipe: Creative supports will be needed. The two parts will need to be glued together.
• Wheels: The wheel model has a miniraft. Be sure to add supports.
• Seat and steering wheel: Best to print these with a brim.

Post-Printing

Smoothing

Previous cars that I have posted were printed on my FlashForge Adventurer 3 and required smoothing. My Bambu Lab P1S prints more accurately and the slicer (Bambu Studio) has adaptive layer height, which means that the surface is smooth enough to paint without smoothing.

If your printer produces a rougher surface, you can smooth it with 3d printing resin and baby powder. You can find videos and guides online that describe the process, but here it is in a nutshell:

• Mix 1 part resin and 2-3 parts baby powder in an opaque container (so that it can be stored without hardening due to UV exposure).
• Using a paintbrush or cotton swab, spread a thin layer of the resin/baby powder mix over the body, wherever you want to smooth print lines and gaps.
• Use a UV flashlight (a cheap one--like the kind used to harden resin finger nail polish, which you can order from Amazon or buy in the pharmacy department of Walmart) to harden the resin.
• Sand the body smooth until there are no thick layers left.
• Repeat over any areas that are still rough.

You can add tungsten weights to the hole in the rear of the body. If you plan well, and use enough infill, you can maximize the weights and end up right at 5 oz.