8x32 LED Matrix Frame with Diffuser Grid by fractalnoise

fractalnoise

Hobby & DIY>Electronics

Print Profile(2)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

Front and Back (0.28mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

Designer

2.8 h

2 plates

4.8(19)

Diffuser (0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

Designer

2 h

1 plate

5.0(13)

Boost

163

210

330

Released

Description

8x32 LED Matrix Frame

No glue*, tape or screws needed
Accessible USB port
Wall- or desk-mounted
Snap-fit sockets for ESP-WROOM-32, MAX4466 or MAX9814 microphone and DC Power Connector for easy installation
Optional socket-less version

* I suggest gluing the two front frame pieces together

Instructions

Print:

2xFront SPLIT
2xDiffuser SPLIT
1xBackL SPLIT
1xBackR SPLIT

Print the Diffuser Screens with these settings to give the screen a horizontal “scanline” texture:

Top/Bottom surface pattern: ALIGNED RECTILINEAR
Internal solid infill pattern: ALIGNED RECTILINEAR
Sparse infill pattern: ALIGNED RECTILINEAR
Infill direction: 0

If using white filament for the Diffuser Screen, printing it on a textured plate will make it scatter more light and be dimmer. Use a smooth plate for best results. A textured plate will work great for clear filament though :)

For the LED matrix, you'll need:

8x32 LED Matrix - e.g. https://aliexpress.com/item/4000544411175.html
ESP-Wroom-32 - e.g. https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005972312714.html
MAX4466 microphone - e.g. https://aliexpress.com/item/3256803608057399.html
or
MAX9814 microphone - e.g. https://aliexpress.com/item/3256805923391884.html
Power Supply 5V 1.5A-15A (~2-5A will do for most uses) - e.g. https://aliexpress.com/item/32844702891.html or https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006126703620.html
or an old USB cable (cut one end and connect the + and - to the LED matrix)

LED Matrix/ESP32/WLED Assembly Guide:

WLED Microphone settings (WLED/Config/Usermods):

Some useful resources:

WLED Project: https://kno.wled.ge/
Chris Maher WLED tutorials playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLur8dX5PE-4pk838s_gZAdm-98-sf0f0Z
Make It Work WLED tutorials playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUTKOGJvdIQ8WYfG6TDJ_c8_WlPovWbL9

My other LED projects:

https://makerworld.com/en/u/3965042544/collections/101475

Documentation (2)

Assembly Guide (2)

8x32_drawing_3edc8bd5-af8b-45a6-8a85-2f92ebbde32b.png

wiring_b2d379d3-3e8d-4e60-83b8-1f90c3d4f19e.png

Comment & Rating (66)

@AllanFonroques

Hello, the project seems very nice to me, I will definitely do it. I would like to place the product on a shelf, can we connect the power supply from the back?

The designer has replied

@fractalnoise

Certainly! Just pass the power cable in the hole in the back. and connect the dc power connector (if you're using it) on the outside. You might be interested in the stands for the frames: https://makerworld.com/en/models/127864 Cheers!

@AllanFonroques

Replying to @fractalnoise :

Great, thx !

@AllanFonroques

Replying to @fractalnoise :

Which one to take among the 3 choices?

@javierm

Print Profile

Front and Back (0.28mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

printed great thanks

@AllanFonroques

I have 2 suggestions: - Add a switch on the side (right for me) because the ESP card remains powered all the time, I would have liked to be able to cut it from time to time. - Find a better solution to connect the transformer tip directly to the rear of the box because in my case, I took a connector as in the attached photo, but impossible to put it in the rear direction because it was too long, I I had to enlarge the rear hole and pass the transformer tip through it, so when I unplugged it, I had to dismantle the front panel. It would take a 90° tip in my opinion.

The designer has replied

@fractalnoise

Hi there... sorry for the delay in answering... For the switch, I tried to keep everything as simple as possible (with as little soldering as well), furthermore if you turn off the LEDs from WLED the ESP32 will draw almost no power (unless you enabled "Disable WiFi Sleep" in wled config/wifi settings), making the switch kind of useless. Anyway, I think it would be rather easy to cut a hole in the model by yourself, either from the 3mf/stls or the step file, so you can add exactly the switch you want where you want it. You can even do that directly in your slicer... For the barreljack in the rear, there's really not enough room to put it "standing up", so I just plugged it on the outside like so:

(Edited)

@user_2996913775

Print Profile

Diffuser (0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

Great

@user_2996913775

Print Profile

Front and Back (0.28mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

Great, very compact

@user_1240825499

Very nice :D. Was printed by a Friend with an X1C. Its Working very good.

@AllanFonroques

Print Profile

Diffuser (0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

The design is very good, well done and thanks to its author for the support!!

@AllanFonroques

Print Profile

Front and Back (0.28mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

The design is very good, well done and thanks to its author for the support!!

@user_2791005939

This is awesome! Any chance you'll be making an 8x64 version?

The designer has replied

@fractalnoise

Hi! Not for the moment, sorry :(

@StarLordHelmche

Print Profile

Front and Back (0.28mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill)

nice design and good print. If I may suggest some improvements: I want to suggest to make the case a little „deeper“ (height) to make installation of electronics more convenient whichs helps also when using esp32 with dupont pins. I had problems to get the matrix wires to the esp32 without bending the matrix upwards because there was so little space between the matrix and the esp32.

The designer has replied

@fractalnoise

Hi and thanks... I wanted/needed to keep the frame as low-profile as possible, so it's a compromise: if you solder the connections you can keep the pins straight, but if you want dupont connector then you'll have to bend them a little... but I'll consider the suggestion for future versions :)