AMS Riser V2 by maCyo42 Remixed by maCyo42

Remixed by

maCyo42

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

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Print Profile(17)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

Part 1- 4 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

Designer

55.9 h

4 plates

4.9(319)

P1S Part 5&6 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

Designer

3.4 h

1 plate

4.9(90)

P1S Cover Blank @0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

1 h

2 plates

5.0(84)

X1C Part 5&6 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

Designer

3.2 h

1 plate

4.9(89)

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Boost

729

1543

1561

168

3.6 k

10.7 k

Released

Description

It's done!!! All Parts printed and assembled! I started the Riser V2 early December and changed the last Parts yesterday. There's a lot of work in this design, so many small and big changes. Today i will start to Release the first completed picture of the Riser V2 and the Profiles of the Mainbodies. As you later can see i've seperated some Parts so that you can play around with Step Files for your own Design Fronts.

Should I print the Riser V1 or V2? Here are the differences.

There are 2 Versions of the V1. The Standard is for 8mm Lightstrips and the 12mm Edition for 12mm Lightstrip and additionaly you can fix the Lightstrip with Cable ties.
V2 combines the Features of both V1 Riser in this Case.
I received a lot questions: Will 12mm Lightstrips fit? It can but that is not sure. It not depends only on the width. The stiffness is one big issue for the curves. Try it i cannot guarantee! There are different lightstrips on the market.
V2 is tuned more for function than design. There are additionaly Connectors for Accessories like Tools.
Early December i began to work on V2. My intention was the big change in the Anti Glare Feature and the Connectors.
But meanwhile there where some critics on the V1. Some Makers reported a bad fitting of their Top Glas. To much loose in the Spoolholder fitting and so on. So the logical consequence was to rework many things on V2.
The Modders. I had so many Mails and Msg… can you please add Hexagons insted of Holes and so on. Because of this i reworked the Covers and seperated them for the Modders. You can now easily create your own designs on the most seen Parts of the Riser.
The printability. Puh i don´t know how to begin exactly. Makerworld makes a lot very easy. But a project like this is not easy. It´s big, it can fail as any other Print… it can fail! But you can do a lot that the chance that it will fail is very small. You have to know your printer, your Filament, your Buildplate… The condition is not the same as i have. But it´s quite easy to begin if you have a predefined Profile.
But it´s not a Microwave, it´s a 3D-Printer, a popular and wonderfull Printer. It makes a lot easier and it´s the by far best for consumer on the marked… and nevertheless you have to know what you do. Please keep in mind!
I reworked a lot to make it even easier. Less Supports (less filament usage is everytime the best optimization!)
Tuned Overhangs especially on the back which is on the Print surface while printing Part 3 and 4. and many more changes

happy printing

Features Description

Accessories Port
New second Accessories Connector Port. The Port is redesigned an optimized. Accessories fits tighter. The Spoolholder on V1 was a bit to loose.

New seperated Drawer Front Cover and Handle

With the new separated Drawer Front you can create easily your own Designs and Text on it and print it upside down for best looking Surface. (STEP File of the Cover included)
The new Handle locks both Parts (Drawer and Cover) together. No Glue needed!

Compatible Inserts for the Drawer
Original Inserts & Dividers by tomtom5893

CHT Nozzle Holder by kylecasey4

New P1S Front Dash Parts with separated Cover for leave Blank or your own Design

In the Standard V2 you have a dummy for the Slot where you can mod different things like a light Switch.
The Slot for the MicroSD Card is now protected with a Cover. If you press on the lower Part of the Cover it opens. Yes it´s tricky to get the Card out, but how often you want to get it out… i recommend to use a tweezer or something else.
The Covers of Part 5 & 6 is now separated too. You can add your own designs and print it upside down. (STEP Files of the Covers included)

Light Strip integration and Anti Glare

The Lightstrip integration is fully redesigned and now combines “V1 Standard” and “V1 12mm Edition” in one sleak Design.
You now have a lot of cable tie position to safe your Printer from falling Lightstrip!

I strongly recommend COB LED Light Strip with 8mm width. Length 2m and cutable.
Yes you can also use 10mm or 12mm BUT beware. Most 12mm LED Strip are so stiff that it´s a mess to integrate them.

The Anti Glare Feature moved from the Mainbodies to the TPU Gasket Parts because of collisions with the PTFE Tube while printing big Parts.

Why more Light? Do i need more Light? YES i think so!

The Toolholder Connector

With this Connector you can add whatever you want to the Riser. In the First step i added the Connector for my P1S Tools Model (Get it here on Makerworld).
The Toolholder Connector is provided as a Step File as well. With this the Modding Community is able to connect whatever they want.
There are 6 Connector Ports 4 of this. 2 on the Left Side and 2 on the Right Side. There are 2 more Connector Ports on the Back in a different design. (STEP File of the Toolholder Connector included)

You can also attach a Spoolholder. Get my Version with Bearings here

The “Back Connector” is finally released. Unleash your modding ideas, perhaps for an ESP32 case that can be attached to the back?
Use one, two or even all 4 connectors for your modding idea.
(STEP File of the Back Connector included)

tba

Comment & Rating (1561)

@wjmcfarl

Print Profile

Part 1- 4 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

This is my first large, multi-part, multi-day print and I am completely blown away with the end result! Printed everything using Overture PLA in space gray, black, and white and I think the color combination looks great. Fit was fantastic and joints are strong and tight. Even the TPU gasket was super easy to print. Only thing I’m waiting on is the led strip light to finish the project.

(Edited)

@wjmcfarl

I also remixed the Sunlu S2 side mount and merged it with the accessory holder and it came out awesome! l’ll upload the file once I figure out how to do all of this and give credit to the creators of the original files. 🤓🤓

(Edited)

@StawAr

Replying to @wjmcfarl :

Great, I'm looking forward to it!

(Edited)

@kabaroxx

Replying to @wjmcfarl :

Great implementation! I would use it like that for myself too. But I haven't printed all the parts yet, it will still take a few days.

@Stylon

Print Profile

Part 1- 4 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

By far the biggest 3D print project I’ve undertaken and it came out perfect - a testament to its great design! Printed it in normal PLA and TPU and used Bambu’s own LED light strip that plugs into the P1S’s USB port for convenience. Still working on the drawer dividers and need to see if I can mount some tools on the side with my limited space.

(Edited)

@Pesh

I have a P1S also, glad to see this works for P1S. What did you print with TPU? Does the Bambu LED fit in the riser channel? or did you install it somewhere else? Have you thought about the Xtouch touchscreen upgrade? Curious if it would work with this design?

@Stylon

Sorry for the delay in replying. Yes the Bambu light fits in the recess made for light strips just fine - it’s a pretty standard size. TPU was used for the 4 anti-glare strips that form a lip all the way around above the led strip. The Bambu light strip uses the USB socket behind the existing screen so there wouldn’t be one free for the screen mod if you use that. I use my phone with the Bambu app most of the time anyway so don’t really think I’ll bother with that mod.

@spalexander68

Where did you get the rear covers at? I have not seen them anywhere, unless I am just overlooking them.

@Fheral

Thank you for the design, finished printing everything and looks great. Quick question, are there any plans on providing covers for the Accessories Connector Ports and for the two deep holes in the back to store the spool holders (maybe even drawers for people that don't want the spool holders ?) ? Thank you, really appreciate it.

The designer has replied

@maCyo42

Thank you for the Picture. you mean a Cover only as a Design Element? it's an idea... yes. atm i have not enough time but i put this on my list. maybe there another Maker that is faster than me 😁👍 there are step files in the Raw section

@Fheral

Replying to @maCyo42 :

Thank you sir, it is working like a charm. Yes, a cover just as design element. I will try to make it, but I am not good at modeling, at the same time I can just wait and probably fill the ports with all the accessories :-) Thinking about it can even mount a logo instead a cap :-) Yeah, I will try to do it. Ty Sir o7

(Edited)

@Chakalak

Guten Tag erstmal hammer Arbeit @maCy42 ich bin neu in der 3D-Druck Welt habe seit 1 woche mein X1-Carbon und finde die Einschubladen vom Design was @Fheral hat richtig sexy und wollte fragen wo ich die finde oder ob man zu die irgendwie kommt das man sich das genau so drucken kann Mit Freundlichen Güßen

@Jwill8712

Print Profile

Part 1- 4 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

Just finished my riser and it was a fun build. I like the customization options as well. My first large, multi-print, and I was excited the whole time.

The designer has replied

@maCyo42

nice Bat Edition 👍🏼

@user_2026932696

omg love it. im new to 3d printing and just playing around with bambu slicer while awaiting my first 3d print could you link me video or something to explain how you added this?

@Jwill8712

Replying to @user_2026932696 :

I don't have a video but I could possibly make one or just give you a text walk through.

@user_2131353217

Thank you! Printed with no issues. The filament I used is Elegoo Rapid PLA+ silver and Polymaker PLA Pro green. Overture TPU for the gasket. I thought I would have to glue it together, but it there is no rattle or noise from it. So, just assembled the parts and put it on the printer. Could not be happier. I did shorten the drawer knobs using your step files as I thought they were a little long. Thank you for providing the step files. I can't imagine how much time you have put into this. If anyone wants my knob remix, let me know.

@Pesh

Can you please share your knob remix.

@user_2196757751

can you please share the knob remix?

@user_2131353217

Replying to @user_2196757751 :

Sorry it took me so long to respond. Here is my knob design. https://makerworld.com/en/models/206151

@pebbles8220

This was exactly what I was looking for. It printed really well and went together perfectly. I originally made the V1 12mm Edition but I couldn't get the zip ties through the holes for the lighting. Just as I was trying to figure out how to fasten my LED light this riser magically appeared and I am so glad it did because I love everything about it.

The designer has replied

@maCyo42

🤩👍

@Stylon

Looks awesome - where did you get the grilles for the back panel from and also the coloured trim around the drawers on the front?

@pebbles8220

Replying to @Stylon :

Thank you. The color around the drawers is filament. I did a 2 color print to get it to look like that. Here is a link for the grills I have in the back. https://makerworld.com/en/models/74206#profileId-78706

@user_2196757751

Print Profile

Part 1- 4 @0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill

awesome model and efforts! compliments to the author! nonetheless, be careful with fan settings. I didn't use my own profile, but instead used the provided one. As a result of high fan settings, I do have quite some warping for part 1 and 2 (like some other comments mentioned already).

(Edited)

@PinkPanther

i have the same issues. Part 3 and 4 are relatively ok but i have to Re print 1 and 2 because they warped so bad that they dont fit together. do you mind helping a print newbie? my cellar is around 12°C, tried aux completely off and door open, still got a fair amount of warping (+ Layer shifts, printed on bambu cool plate. ordered the textured pei since and i Plan to Re print it today). should i try print with closed door?

@user_2196757751

Replying to @PinkPanther :

I don't mind helping, but I am a newbie myself. I am printing with door and top open, fans off at around ~19-18°. You can also try to slow speed down and dry material first.

(Edited)

@PinkPanther

Replying to @user_2196757751 :

thanks for advise. Material is definately dry. thats not the issue i had. i tinkered around with settings since then and tried another build plate (textured pei feels like another level). i re did all the parts at 55°C bed Temp, fully enclosed, maintaining 30°C Chamber temp and got perfect results. :)

(Edited)

@vicslive

I am on the very same boat at @wjmcfarl, this was also my first large, multi-part, multi-day print and I have no words with the quality, precision, and the result! I printed everything using Matter Hackers PLA in Silver, black, Red, and White and I think the color combination reminds me a little bit of Star Wars. The fit was fantastic, and the joints are strong and tight. TPU gasket is a clear/transparent color, which was fun. Only thing I do not understand the lighting I should be using here and the install portion, power for it, I bought the controller from the Netherlands, will be here someday to integrate with the X1 carbon light menu and have that functionality of auto light off during Lidar measures. can't wait for it to be all done. @maCyo42 my hats off to you, let me know where to send the beer or coffee, whatever you like best.

The designer has replied

@vicslive

I am printing right now the spool holder in Red and Black with the bearings, so that is coming next. I just added both plates into one, changed to print per object instead of layer and let auto rearrange things, so it can do both together without waste of filament but get done at once.

(Edited)

@vicslive

@maCyo42, Please, I would like to have some ideas on how to fix this issue I found today, I noticed a lot of noise when printing on the right of the bed and found that the PTFE was hitting the gasket and glass, when I remove the glass, it was lifting the TPU gasket during print. If I had the lights installed there, it would hit the lights and be a big disaster. Have you seen this before? Did I do something wrong on install that is visible through video/pictures? Any suggestions? I have videos that explain better but don't know how to upload here...

@maCyo42

Replying to @vicslive :

you can add one more chain clip and this to fix this https://makerworld.com/en/models/26391#profileId-22761 you also print the chain clips but I have no link atm

@Ghost_Rider

Print Profile

X1C Cover Blank @0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

I printed without any problems. It would be much better if a channel was added to prevent the buttons from rotating.

@pebbles8220

I found exactly what you are talking about and the model printed perfectly. Here is the link to the model. https://makerworld.com/en/models/82726#profileId-88216

(Edited)

@Ghost_Rider

Replying to @pebbles8220 :

Yes. It was definitely what I was looking for. Thanks :))

(Edited)

@aleahy80

Boosted

What's the point of the buttons?

@adamwideen

part 1. any clue what happened here? this is a new one to me.

The designer has replied

@maCyo42

PETG?

@adamwideen

yes. standard babmu basic grey petg. Dried right out of the bag. 1 spot in the back infill kept failing. tried it 3 times, same spot. I changed the infill to gyroid and it's fine. much longer print though...lol

@PinkPanther

Replying to @adamwideen :

the Problem is the infill which you used. the nozzle barely drags onto the crosssections.