DK Riser for BambuLab X1 by papsjundi

papsjundi

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

Print Profile(1)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Designer

19.9 h

5 plates

4.8(221)

Boost

390

713

313

1.3 k

4.3 k

Released

Description

When I made / remixed my first Riser, it was out of personal necessity… because the built-in LED in BambuLab was not sufficient… and that Low profile design turned out to be quite popular.

Since then, a couple of users Qiao112 and Dan Ljungström encourage me to do the next version that also has a vent on it… they showed me a design from another desinger… which is very good… but I personally like it to be not as tall…

So through the rabbit hole I went… gone thru several design ideas… throw away most of them, starting over and over… until I came up with something that I personally like…

So here it is… still similar to the first design, it has a TPU Bed/ Light Shield on top but I made several modification from the original design, recognizing issues that was inherent from the first design.

The first design, I angled the LED 60 degrees downward, the problem is, if we do not want to cut the LED strips and do some soldering at the corners, you have to bend the LED strips, it will be very hard to fit them nicely…
so in the new desogn, I change the angle to 45 degrees (less bending at the corners) and as a bonus, less overhang…
then I added a “cave” (for the lack of a better word) so we can accommodate the “extra” LED to “curl” in there.

A few users remixed the previous design to make the top wall part (LED Trim some call it) thicker, worried that it might brake off… I personally have used this since I first made it, and never had any issues, but I will change the thickness to accommodate that too…

This is probably a little more than a casual project, I will try to provide a clear guide…

So let's get straight to how to put it together

I uploaded a 3mf file that already contains everything you need to print.

This is a 5 plates project: Plate 1 & 2 are the main body, plate 3 is the cover for the vent holes plus Pegs and Magnet Tool, and the last 2 are all the TPU

I printed Plate 1 thru 3 using IIIMax PetG Filament, and 4-5 using BambuLab TPU 95A Black
I choose to pick different color for the cover for accent more than anything else, you can choose the same color / materials.

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Parts you need to buy for this project:
1. 6x2 mm round magnets AMAZON LINK.
2. COB LED Strips with Power Supply and Wireless Remote Amazon Link

I also added a couple of Magnet Tools to assist in installing the magnets. We know that magnets will attract if they have opposite polarity, and repels otherwise.
I intentionally print these in 2 different colors - 1 color like the body, and the other like the vent cover….

Glue each magnet to the tool, you should install the magnet opposite polarity so when you put them together head to head, they will stick to each other

The orange one you will use to install the magnet for the main body, and the beige one for the vent covers

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After you print all parts.. line up the main body upside down… and you can install the Pegs. Note that there are magnet notches on the pegs, they should be facing outward. You can put SuperGlue also for permanently secure all 4 parts.

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Next Glue all 8 of the TPU guard to the Vent Doors. They are different sizes, so match the same ones, and there are 2 rounded guide to help you lined them up.

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Next install the Vent Doors (8 pcs) to the main body. There are different Lengths of the Vent Doors should match the vent. Thet should be inserted at 45 Degrees angle following the gutter. The best way I found is guide the left Hinge first, the middle while pushing 45 degrees, and the right one last… You should hear it clicked once they are in place.

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Next, Glue 16 Magnets to the main body, using the Magnet Tool with the same color as the body, this ensure the polarity of the magnets to be facing correctly.

Glue 16 Magnets to the (8) Vent Doors (with TPU) using the Magnet Tool with the same color as the Vent Door. Again this is to ensure the polarity of the magnets to be facing correctly.

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Guide the LED Power Cable through the cable Guide. The TPU Plug was sized slightly wider so that it will be a tight fit and will stay in place.

Install the COB LED Strips… note that the LED Strip Sticker may not hold for a long time, you might want to consider gluing them.

Lastly install them on your Machine, and put the TPU Shield on top, and finally you can replace the top glass.

Below is the youtube video I made, I hope it will make it clearer how to put it together… towards the end of the video… there's a FLIR Video showing the thermal images

I sincerely hope you will find it useful. Thank You!

Comment & Rating (313)

@bdpickett

I printed this with CC3D transparent green PETG and Tinmorry transparent green TPU. The LED strip is a “PAUTIX 5V USB LED Strip Light 6.56ft/2m, 640LEDs 1200lm Dimmable COB LED Strip 6000K Daylight White” from Amazon (US) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X1G8VSZ/ . While the LED strip brightens the interior of the cabinet with daylight illumination, the transparent frame (translucent, really) casts a green aura around the top of the X1-C, like its loaded with kryptonite.

@coffeemeister

Love this. Thanks for including the filament you used. I just did the same thing with my P1S.

@rawallace

Very nice. What temp and speed did you use to print those? I tried printing something else with some transparent green PETG and, while it printed fine, it was pretty opaque when done. I recall the old "for transparent, hot and slow" saying and am wondering if I printed mine too fast. Of course, this was some years-old eSun PETG. It was dry, but maybe too old???

@sirfragalot

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Bambu Silver ABS Sunlu Grey 95A TPU little bit of warpage but hasn't affected the fitment. looks great

@Pico79

did you have to scale for abs shrinking ?

@sirfragalot

Replying to @Pico79 :

no, I didn't scale. it fits perfectly.

@frostironmedia

Replying to @sirfragalot :

You said little bit of warpage, and gave the profile 4 stars but didn't scale and acknolwedged that...abs shrinks, causing warpage...this should be a 5 star rating because your problem was from user error, not the designer.

(Edited)

@devin.d.ford

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Incredible upgrade, everything fit together and printed well. Only call out is the polarity magnet pegs, they’re awesome but I had to shave it down once the magnet was in there because it was holding the other magnet from being placed due to it being sunken in. Not a big deal and maybe it was just the magnets I had, but regardless this mod is amazing, so much better than propping the glass, being able to see in the case way better, and the look is just great imo!

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

Thank You!! great Job 👍👍

(Edited)

@mstoflinsky

I like how this turned out, I'm going to start printing one for my p1s. I like those Dessicant holders their bigger than mine. Where do you find those?

(Edited)

@devin.d.ford

Replying to @mstoflinsky :

sorry for the late reply, but here is the link to the desiccant holders https://makerworld.com/models/26136

@smithb

PETG Gray for the main body, PETG transparent orange for the shutters, and TPU 95A black for the gaskets. I had to tweak a couple of settings for the PETG (especially transparent), but nothing drastic. I decided to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY23SLF6 for the lighting. 5V USB, rather than the 24V used by the designer. Plenty bright enough, and much less heat to worry about (photo shows the results).

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

nicely done! 👍👍

@user_3997875592

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

The best print ever. Everything fits perfect. I am so impressed that someone cad draw this. I printed with eSun PETG and TPU the first time ever. I feel like I am a Pro. The LED and magnet was bought from Temu(very cheap). The LED was connected to a smart plug that are controlled by Home assistant. The lights is turn on when X1C turn on its own light. The LED is turned of when inspecting first layer, when using LiDAR and calibration filament flow. When printed PLA I have always had everything closed but now I have the option to open ventilation.

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

Very well done, thank you!

@julesmpj

I'm printing this riser now. Could you please share the smart plug that you used for the LED strip and how you were able to set it up to turn on and off as you described? Thank you.

@Imaginarydave

love it. so clean.

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

Thank you!! what is that on top of it? Dryer?

@Imaginarydave

Replying to @papsjundi :

MMS and MMS enclsure. https://makerworld.com/en/models/89050#profileId-95509 https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584

@pennywice

I printed with transparent red Anycubic PETG for the main parts, transparent bambulab PETG for the doors, and transparent Anycubic TPU for the gaskets. Accidentally i created a christmas theme version, but i think it turned out OK :D Used TP-link Tapo L900 LED strips, because i could get them in a physical store where i live (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Tapo-Trimmable-Required-L900-20/dp/B0B744FV6D?th=1)

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

well done! thank you!

@user_2155326552

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

Simple but does everything I wanted. Light, vent and a short riser.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

Thank you! Good Job!

@detLAN

I come from Germany. What width can the LED strip have? I would like to add a colorful strip, but it is 12mm wide. Is it a big hassle to adapt the part for 12mm if necessary? Thanks so much.

The designer has replied

@papsjundi

the width is a little over 10mm

@detLAN

Replying to @papsjundi :

Thank you very much for the information. I have already printed and put your excellent project into operation - perfect work. I installed a 12mm wide RGB LED strip, which doesn't fit 100%. RGB because I use the BL LED controller https://dutchdevelop.com/bl-led-controller Suggestion for improvement: If the TPU cover had a tab that went under the adjacent cover, there would be no light gap - see last photo.

(Edited)

@Nix311

Replying to @detLAN :

I'm tinkering in the STEP file now in 360. Increasing (Press/Pull the section where the LEDs sit by 1.45mm makes the angle the LEDs mount a little over 12mm (12.195). I'm doing the same mod as you, just got my X1C yesterday.

(Edited)

@EricEJ

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

This is the 3rd riser I have printed for my printer, and I am finally happy with my riser. First one was great but had separate inserts I had to keep on hand to plug up the holes. Second one I printed had vents that slid open and closed and were print in place, but whenever the printer was running, they would vibrate open and closed. This one was perfect. A bit more work to get it completed, involving glue and magnets, but completely worth it.

(Edited)