Hexagonal Vented Led Riser

Hexagonal Vented Led Riser

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Print Profile(2)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

MainFrame - 0.24mm layer, 2 walls, 25% infill
MainFrame - 0.24mm layer, 2 walls, 25% infill
Designer
16.8 h
3 plates
5.0(5)

Led Diffusers - 0.2mm layer
Led Diffusers - 0.2mm layer
Designer
30 min
1 plate
5.0(1)

Boost
16
40
22
0
72
96
Released

Description

This is a very rigid led riser. Created for my needs and “style” :p

Features:

- Vented Leds (always active)

- Vented chamber (you can switch on/off by 4 slides)

- Sliding glass (with rails to make it slide smoother)

- Honeycomb dual color pattern (it helps to make the structure rigid, that's why it does not end to exactly half of the frame)

- Easy close, so that the glass does not stuck in front of the frame with the AMS weight on

- All piece are LABELED for an easy assembly

- Diffusers rails to add light diffuser (the covers are under development 02/01/24: Covers added)

- Lowest possible design

- Holes on the back to mount a DC/DC converter, esp32, or other hardware)

 

Caution when assembling the frame, there are actions you can't revert (like inserting the lock piece between two frames.
To assemble, put it upside down -letters visible-, arrange them on a surface where the left nearest corner is A, and counterclockwise b, c etc.

Insert the honeycomb in all bodies (the top must be higher than the frame body), and starting from A insert (and join) the vent slides*, stick the leds and insert the diffuser in the rail, then match the second frame piece (B) and TEMPORARILY insert half of the locker; stick other half side of the led strip, then insert the second diffuser into B. Proceed with other letters.

 

If you mount the diffuser also, you should start assembling sticking the led strip into E (wires hole), and mount from d→c→b→a→h→g→f)

Make you sure to clear ALL the rails (led, honeycomb frame and vents) before assembly, by sliding the pieces inside it, part to part.

*Sliders are tight to a better seal, but they're very smooth after a couple of sliding (that's why you have to clear it before assembly sliding many time the pieces in). The back slide has a endstop who can give friction (slide F), you have to clear it inserting the endstop reversed directly from FSide (corner). the locks... yes, they are very tight


The harder pieces to print are the curved profiles, they're 0.5mm thicker for an easy print. PRINT @ 0.2mm/layer because of the overhangs. They have some small supports, break it once mounted on the frame.

There are also some pre-designed supports in the frame itself, (in the corners) just break it with a screwdriver before mount.

 

edit: 02/01/2024

Diffusers added. Search in print profiles. You can insert it while assembling (better: If you mount a diffuser also, start assembling the led strip into E (wires hole), and mount from e to →d→c→b→a→h→g→f), or add later by printing ONLY the first layer (are 2 layers tot).

Because my frame was already assembled, i've opted for second choice. To better fix the covers (since they had no rails in my case because i've printed only the first layer), i've printed 2 more covers, cutted 1mm wide with scissors, and inserted into the rails to better hold the covers. I've tried to slide it into an old test frame (diffuser printed in 2 layers), and it goes ok.

 

 

 

Comment & Rating (22)

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Overcomplicated crap, I'd say. This is just feature for the sake of it which makes it impossible to print with anything but 0.4mm nozzle. Also why do you even need a second row of holes that can't be shut down? To let more air in while the shuts are closed? It doesn't make sense to use it without LED strip. But LED strip doesn't need holes behind it to cool - front part is just good enough! And how on earth do you combine shuts with holes so they don't break and the length doesn't even match. Should I insert them before making connections? After? It's not clear in instruction and I just seemingly wasted half a kilo of ASA and made my whole house stink for nothing it seems as I'll now have to print plugs for those holes and repring multiple shuts with thinner profile fml...
(Edited)
The designer has replied
2
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Oh boy, I opened STL of the project... The sliders don't have 90 degrees angles, they're not flat on surface, the wall thickness where holes are seem to be random (like the walls are super thin on A and B parts for instance). Holy hell what have I dove into... I'm not going to be respectful about it. This is a waste of plastic and energy.
(Edited)
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Replying to @SneakyJoe.Ru :
IF you print it and it worked you got VERY lucky. Just look at this
1
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Replying to @SneakyJoe.Ru :
It's funny that you print it without knowing why you need holes behind leds. this is a VENTED *LED* RISER My print profile and design is for well mantained printers. I've checked the files and are all ok. The overcomplicated crap is for an aesthetic thing, and because of the light shade (clearly hexagonal now, "but complicated"). But as you read, this is the LOWER possible frame. In an older version with a rounded corners rectangle hole (same to both sides), it was looking very bad because the holes was not following the hexa pattern. The slide A goes into the frame A, and the B into the B, you can join them doing A+B (slide + frame + hexa.. no holes after assembled ), My leds @24v became hot, and with diffusers covers too. Better cooling, better life . BTW if you can, do it better ;)
(Edited)
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Print Profile
MainFrame - 0.24mm layer, 2 walls, 25% infill
Very nice design, print well in PETG. Slider inside a little bit tight. I needed to add support for the 2 corners.
The designer has replied
1
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Sliders are tight to a better seal, but they're very smooth after a couple of sliding (that's why you have to clear it before assembly sliding many time the pieces in). the back slide has an endstop who can give friction (slide F), you have to clear it inserting the endstop directly from FSide (corner). the locks... yes, they are very tight happy you're satisfied :) Try to mount the diffusers :) Which corners you're talking about? Curved ones? They're sliced at 0.2mm / layer into my plate becAuse of the overhangs, have you tried to print at this resolution?
(Edited)
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I love it and above all really brilliant. Everything is studied with extreme logic and intelligence. Kudos. I had a bit of difficulty in embedding the speakers but it is more a problem of smearing the print. Thank you very much
1
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Print Profile
MainFrame - 0.24mm layer, 2 walls, 25% infill
(Edited)
1
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Print Profile
Led Diffusers - 0.2mm layer
(Edited)
1
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Print Profile
MainFrame - 0.24mm layer, 2 walls, 25% infill
0
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What materials did you print this with? I wonder if PLA is safe or if ABS/ASA should be used given the chamber temperatures.
The designer has replied
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I am starting this print with PETG. I am sure PLA would be fine too
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I've used PLA
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I got a warning when slicing that object B of Plate 1 is floating. Tried to move down a bit without success
The designer has replied
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Found the problem, Object F of plate 1 is not square with the plate by less than a degree on the X and Y axis. I now started the print with this corrected!
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Ohhh really? i'll take a look edit: Yes it was object B. Sorry! MODEL UPDATED! BTw All objects gives warning because there are suspended areas (who can be well covered without supports).
(Edited)
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Does your riser fit a 12 mm LED stripe?
The designer has replied
0
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yes
1
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intresting
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