PiCade HAT Based Mini Bartop by 3D Art Fusion

3D Art Fusion

Hobby & DIY>Electronics

Print Profile(0)

No Print Profile yet. Add one to earn points.

+ Add Print Profile

Boost

Released

Description

Summary

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTGTHzLN20g
(UPDATES COMING SOON! 12/29/22!)

*Now Battery Powered! 5+ Hour Battery life!

Use Boost converter:
https://www.amazon.com/Yeeco-Converter-Regulator-Stabilizer-Adjustable/dp/B011EBSKK0/ref=sr_1_3?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1526397789&sr=1-3&keywords=5+to+12V+boost+converter&dpID=51xw5k2jkoL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Amazon - $7.76
And a RAVPOWER RP-PB41 Battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Charger-RAVPower-Battery-26800mAh/dp/B012NIQG5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526397747&sr=8-1&keywords=RP-PB41
More Battery Info:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVNQKss2Bwk

Re-Designed 6- Button Layout!

This is a ground-up Remix of malopezn's Arcade Cabinet.
Found Here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:768663
Big Thanks to malopezn for the initial Design, as it saved me a TON of time.

For this build I decided to use a Raspberry Pi3, High Def 10" Screen, 6 button Layout, NeoPixel lighting, an Arduino Nano, and a Pimoroni Picade parts kit.

This still prints on any 200x200x160+ Prusa or better, and for the most part does not need any support. The Light Frames do need support for the parts touching the Bed plate.

So Far I have added the Following to the design:

Refit Location for the Raspberry PI 2/3 (Removed B Model Mounting)
Added Mounting for the HDMI Screen Controller Board
Added Mounting Area for the HDMI Screen Control Board and IR LED
New ATX Molex Power Supply Cut Out
Added a Cut out to Wire LED Strip into the Cabinet Marquis
Inserts for the Cabinet Marquis (White or Clear, Painted Letters, Accented by LED Strips)
Added Glue-On Printable Decals (Pac-Style)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681851
Refitted to use a Pimoroni Picade KIT (Exact Fit)
Speaker mounting added (For Picade Kit Speaker - Exact Fit)
Slotted mounting where possible to make fitment more flexible
Holes added to Left Upright, to allow LCD driver board screws to be reached easily.
10" Screen frame added. allows you to make the 10" LCD into a more hearty assembly.
Switched to Magnetic Mounting for screen, for easy service and card swaps.

Possible Upgrades Still to Be Implemented:
Nanopixel Illuminated Buttons
Sound Reactive Buttons and Marquee
On/Off switch for Marquee
Portable Lithium Battery Power and Charging (Implemented, See Above!)
Coin Slot
Trackball or Ergo Trackpad
Water or Peltier Cooling for Overclocking the PI.
Illuminated Side Panel Decals
And So much room for more in this little guy :-)
Customize to your hearts desire, All Design Files Included!

Build Parts List:

x2 Rolls of PLA or ABS Plastic, Plus a little bit of CLEAR for the Marquee.

EDIT: Some items are missing now in Amazon, I will Re-link what I can. I have not bought and verified each of these, its just what I could find at the request of someone in the comments. Please do your homework on reviews and make sure you are buying from good sellers.

10" HDMI Screen 1280 x 800 (Non-Touch) 100$
https://www.amazon.com/10-1-inch-Diagonal-Especially-Raspberry/dp/B01JJ60LZE

Molex 5 AMP Power Supply - $20.00 + Shipping (Comes with a SATA to USB Kit)
https://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526395875&sr=1-4&keywords=molex+Power+Supply&dpID=51sSk3Xx17L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

MUST be 2.5a/2.5a (5 Total Amps) or it will NOT be powerful enough to run the PI AND the screen! These are hard to source. One of the above unit should do the trick!

Neopixel Type Lights (Any WS2812 Addressable LED works)- ($16.00 - 20$)
https://www.amazon.com/Addressable-Sealed-WS2812-30-LED-Strip/dp/B01GYDLJ24/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526396135&sr=1-10&keywords=WS2812+LEd
OR
https://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-WS2812-8-5050-Driver-Development/dp/B0757C6X5C/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526396135&sr=1-13&keywords=WS2812+LEd

An Arduino Nano v3 Type, or Clone, to Control them with: (3$ - 10$)
All Over the Web
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=Arduino+Nano&rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3AArduino+Nano

Raspberry PI3 ($35.00)
All over the Web

64gb Class10 Micro SD Card (20-25$)
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=Micro+SD+64GB+Class+10&rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3AMicro+SD+64GB+Class+10

Pimironi Picade HAT Kit - $54.00 Shipped.
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/picade-hat

Short HDMI Cable - $10 Average (I had one laying around)

Hardware Fasteners! Mix of 1/4" Nuts and Bolts should get you done. (Approx $15)
I used x2 hobby bolt packs from the hardware store.

Uses x4 Neodymium Magnets to hold the halves together. (Approx $10.00)
Magnets are 6.35mm x.6.35mm x 25.42mm N42 Strength. (37 lbs of Pull Force)
1/4" x 1/4" x 1"
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B44X0

Glue. I use Loctite go2 Glue. As it Dries Perfectly Clear and is relatively strong. $5.00
http://www.midlandhardware.com/164309.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAw_DEBRChnYiQ_562gsEBEiQA4LcsssCUvJgLsK9W-IvjbX9tngGxEL68p-Ndi5wT9aKHTpMaAjlc8P8HAQ

Also helpful to have:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=Prototype+Green+Board&rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3APrototype+Green+Board
Circuit Project Plates
And
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Jumper+Wire+bread+board&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AJumper+Wire+bread+board
Jumper Sets...
As they make the build WAY easier!

Approximate Kit Build Cost = $250-350 If you shop around, you can do even better...

This is a LONG build, and printing time is measured in days to weeks, depending on your machine... But its Worth it :-)

Basic Build Steps:

Print out all parts. Including x4 Magnet Blocks, and the Marquee in CLEAR or White.

Wire Up the Kit and Test all Parts, Using the guides Below to get your image working and controls set up.

Start Cleaning up wire. Zip Ties and Twisting are what worked best for me.

Start bonding all parts together.

Mount all boards.

Mount Screen into Frame.(After Cleaning the Supports VERY Well.
(File the inside of the frame down if needed, if it presses in on the edges too hard it creates white distortions at the edge of the screen that will eventually cause damage)

Glue in Magnet Blocks and Neodymium Magnets, Clamping them to Set 100% before any test fitting of the top and Bottom. Or it WILL pull the blocks out...

Wire up the Arduino and Neopixel Lights. Wire their power up to the aaccessory 5v on the top of the picade, and the grounds to the right of that, also on the picade hat accessory area. (5-6 holes that are labeled for use on the face of the board itself)

Program the Neopixels and test them.

Do a full power up and down test once fully assembled. Check components for heat.

Close up the unit and make sure ALL controls work by re-setting up the emulationstation controls.

Set up a Mouse or Trackball for Missile command and the like...
(Guides on the Web for this)

Then its.... GAME ON!

Deans Attract Mode ShortCut Setup...

--->https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtRsMrUWgu4&t=582s<---
Retropie Dean's Attract mode, Plus Picade HAT setup.
http://retromaniacus.com/gaming-front-ends/retropie/deans-gamestation-32gb/
MUST Signup through Facebook, All other signups are AUTO REJECTED!
Download Dean's Attract mode Image.
Flash to a 32GB+GB card using win32DiskImager
Edit the Config.txt file onthe boot partition before removing the key.
Change:
--> #framebuffer_width=1280
--> #framebuffer_height=720
to
framebuffer_width=1280
framebuffer_height=800
And Change:
dtparam=audio=on
to
--> #dtparam=audio=on
Then Save the File and remove the key.
Insert it into your PI3 and boot up.
Exit Attract mode with a keyboard using the escape key, as your buttons will not work yet.
At the Command Prompt type the following:
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration
Setup a 101, English US, Defaults on the altgr and no compose key... (Make sure it all Says US and hit enter after that till its done and back at the command bar at the bottom. Basically)
Type: sudo reboot
Hit enter and wait for reboot
Exit Attract mode. (May have to force exit with CTRL-C at this point.)
(Plug in an Ethernet cable to the PI and to some internet for the next part)
At a command line type the following:
curl -sS https://get.pimoroni.com/picadehat | bash
Saying yes to the first option, so it runs (takes a little bit to run), and yes to the use speaker on the picade hat option.
You can say yes or no to the rom option. It has no bearing on sound or function.
Type: sudo reboot
Hit enter and wait for reboot.
You should hear sound.
Buttons and keys need to be setup.
ISSUE: MAME coin (Acting as keyboard Button "C" and is on the Front Left of the unit) is not working correctly in lr-mame2010 (Which is what Dean's Image uses)
Easy SOLUTION: Make changes to the picade hat default button profile to map C and S to NUM5 and NUM1
At a command line, type the following:
cd Pimoroni/picade/picade-hat/gamepads/
cp picadehat-default picadehat-backup
sudo vi picadehat-default
edit the following....
Under "Keys :{"
Change COIN to 5
and START to 1
:wq and exit
./configload picadehat-default
Say yes to Reboot.
Now go into Emulationstation, Retropie, and Retroarch.
Reset the Keys in the order of... Retroarch First, then Emulationstation, then Attract mode and Emulators.
If you go in that order you will have a less difficult time of it.
But no matter how you slice it, setting up Picade Buttons Sucks

_____

Master Tip: When setting up buttons and testing key configurations, the command line in retropie, allows you to simply type "showkey" and it will briefly start showing you the results of joystick moves and button presses.
It stops on its own after about a minute. Re-Run it as many times as you like to make sure all your connections are working.

Additional Printing Considerations:

Screen Frame and Possibly one or two others may need supports, depending on your printer.

Screen Frame supports can be hard to remove... Be Patient and Bring your Xacto...

Most of the rest of it should NOT need supports.

You will NEED to print x4 of the Magnet Blocks in order to Glue them into place once you have your magnets glued into them.

The Fit on these is TIGHT for a reason. Neodymium magnets are VERY strong.

You need to make sure to Glue these into place and CLAMP them while they dry.

Suggestion: Do the BOTTOM, Let them Set 100%, then CHECK THE POLARITY of the magnets, and then set the top ones in and glue them, clamping them into place for setting.
(DOUBLE check your magnet polarity! Last thing you want is to do like I did and set the magnets in wrong the first time and have to pry them out and clean up the glue... It was not fun)

--------> Caution! <--------

Neodymium magnets are so strong that the "Clacking" they produce when coming together can shatter the magnets and cause sharp dust to fly off at high speeds!
ALWAYS use eye protection when working with N42 Magnets, as they can blind you without warning.
I Use Gorilla Tape as a Buffer Pad for them to come together on. It cushions the blow and prevents shattering Long Term.