LPSH - Low Profile Spoolholder (sidemounted for AMS) by laisch

laisch

3D Printer>3D Printer Parts

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Print Profile(4)

All

X1 Carbon

P1S

P1P

X1E

All Parts (clearance 0.20)

Designer

7.5 h

4 plates

4.7(82)

Clearance Test! Print First

33 min

1 plate

5.0(19)

0.2mm layer, 6 walls, 25% infill

7.1 h

2 plates

4.9(11)

Replacement clamp for new Generation AMS

1.6 h

1 plate

Boost

1029

1799

198

1.4 k

1.6 k

Released

Description

Low Profile Spoolholder for sidemounting to the bambulab AMS. With the bowdenconnector it adds just 34mm to the AMS in width. Fits spools from 140 to 200mm diameter.
It mounts to the AMS with just clamping force, so there is no need to make any changes to the original hardware.

Never unplug the AMS again when printing from an external spool.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Before you print any part, read the Info part at the end of the build instruction!

External Hardware:

4pc - EXT5.55x25.4 tension springs or as an alternative 4pc small hair rubber band
4pc - M4x20 screw
5pc - M4x16 screw
9pc - M4 hex nut
9pc - M3 bras heat inserts
1pc - M3x6 screw
8pc - M3x4 screw
4pc - 608 rollerscate bearing
1pc - ptfe tube

Print instructions:

All parts print without supports!

Everything can be printed in PLA, except the rollers should be printed in TPU. If you have no TPU, I added a PLA version for the part also. You can't just print the TPU part in PLA, because its undersized, and pressing the bearing in it would cause it to fail.

Build Instructions:

Drill holes
After printing the Mainholder, you have to drill out the holes fot the rollers with a 4mm drill to later fit the screws. If the M4 screws fit, you can skip this step. The holes are made exactly 4mm to ensure the slicer makes 5 perimeter for strength.

Heatinserts
The M3x4mm brass inserts have to be placed at the sliding mechanism and on the hole where you want the bowdenswivel to sit later. (The parts are designed for 4mm deep inserts, but it's also possible to use 6mm ones like I did because I had too less 4mm ;) )

Tension Springs:

My prefered method is to use the rubber bands, even when the spring solution looks way nicer. But the springs tend to be too strong and overstretching them doesn't make them look nice.

For the sliding mechanism you can use either tension springs or rubber bands. When using the springs, make sure that an empty spool will stay in place and don't get pushed out because the spring force is too strong. In case it's too strong you can widen the springs, but if they are too wide, a 140mm spool wont fit anymore.

Use the M3x4mm screws to screw the springs in place

Rubber Bands:
Install the rubber bands like the springs. One per slot has enough force to hold the spool.

Assembling the rollers:
Press the bearing into rollerpart 1

Add superglue and slide the two halfes together

Installing the rollers:
Insert the M4 hex nuts into the back of the Mainholder.

Add the Roller and the Spacer and screw them together with the M4x20 screw

Installing the PTFE Swivel
After printing the swivel, make sure that the two parts can rotate.
Press the PTFE tube into the swivel and screw it to the Mainholder

AMS Mounting:
Connect the clamps with M4x16mm screws and M4 nuts loose to the Mainholder.

Slide the whole assembly to your AMS and tighten the screws

When the spoolholder with a full spool installed flexes too much you can also use double sided tape for better adhesion.

CONNECTION:

For connecting the AMS, the LP-Spoolholder or/and a filament dryer you can use my 3-Way Bowden Splitter:

AMS RISER

If you want to use the LPSH with an AMS - Riser, I recommend to check out the Mooser Project by Basti85. It was designed to be fully compatible with the LPSH. His risers has already included the throughholes for the LPSH - Spoolholder.

IMPORTANT INFO PART

TIP:
If the rollerslides are jamming from time to time, you can add some lubrication to the slider. I used the same silicon lube wich I use for the lead screws

AMS:
There seems to be different versions of the AMS. So before you print the clamps, check the rib size of your AMS.
If you have 4 Ribs wich are 65mm - 86mm - 65mm appart, you can print the clamps like they are in the print profile.
If you have 6 ribs wich are about 45 - 43mm appart you have to just print the "Clamp_small_18mm" at least 3 times

Clearance Issue
One user encountered too much clearance on his sliders wich leads to too much sagging of the spool. So I added three clearance test prints. The original "Mainholder" part comes with clearance 0.2mm.
So print out the three clearance prints first and then decide wich "Mainholder" - version you want to print. For the sliders to work perfektly they must slide with ease (lube if necessary) but should not have too much wobble.

Heat Inserts:
There are 2 Types of M3 heat inserts. The one I used originally have ~5mm in diameter.
If you are using the ones with 4mm outer diameter, there is a file called “holefix _4mm.stl" wich you can load together with the Mainholder.stl into the slicer. Just mark both files, pull them to your slicer and say "yes" when Bambu studio is asking if you want to load it as a single object.
For those who want to go anyway with the rubber bands I added a "rubberplug" - part wich can be used instead of the heat inserts. There are also two versions, one for the original 5mm holes and one for the holes with the holefix for 4mm.

Tension springs vs. rubber band
My prefered method is to use the rubber bands, even when the spring solution looks way nicer. But the springs tend to be too strong and overstretching them doesn't make them look nice.

UPDATE 21.11.23:
- made the bowdenswivel stronger and added two different sizes 20mm and 30mm

Update 31.12.23:
- Holefix_4mm.stl for 4mm diameter heat inserts

Comment & Rating (198)

@geert8550

During the first use with an almost empty roll of PLA, it almost flipped out of the device. After stretching the feathers a little, this was better. In any case, I have designed additional safety based on your concept so that there is no longer any possibility of losing the role. Maybe you can add this as an upgrade.

The designer has replied

@laisch

Yes, I mentioned that in the description why the rubber bands would be better (less force) 😉 The safety upgrade looks nice by the way. So feel free to release this upgrade/remix on your own if you want. My first sketch on this spoolholder Idea looked somewhat similar, but I then didn't want it to be bigger than the AMS and changed it to what it is now 😅

@geert8550

I understand, thanks in advance for the positive response.

@ToxicMedz

Replying to @geert8550 :

Any chance on that remix upload? looks like a nice add-on.

@topxnbo

not sure if it’s because my TPU is too soft, but I noticed some sagging of the filament. that said, I tested on a speed cube, to see if the filament is at any risk of falling off with the fastest speed of filament consumption, so far so good. another issue I found is the heat inserts are designed for 5mm diameter ones, but the M3 inserts I found in my stock are all M3x4x4.2 (i.e., 4.2mm diameter) so I had to improvise and used some M4x4x6 I have on hand which worked out for me, except it leaves very little room to load the rubber band since the screws are now m4 instead of m3. also m4 screws tend to have larger heads, making it more difficult to find small enough ones to sit flush with the surface, which is required to avoid contact with the rollers. I would suggest the designer specify the need for m3x4x5 heat inserts, so users can get the correct inserts. or alternatively create a version that accepts m3x4x4.2 inserts. I would NOT recommend others to try my option of using M4 inserts. get the correct inserts instead of being lazy.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@laisch

The m3 heatinserts I have here have a diameter of 4.9-5.3 so I guess there is no norm. I will add some dowel parts (later when I'm home from work) to the project for those who want to go with the rubber bands as an alternative option to the inserts. A little bit of sagging should be ok on a full spool because of the tolerance of the slider parts, but on your picture it looks a little bit too much. Don't know why, but maybe there is a little under extrusion on your part wich could add even more play to the sliders (just guessing). For me it worked perfectly, but hearing your words there is definetly some room for improvement. Thx for the honest revision!

@OzDruiD

Replying to @laisch :

@laisch Thank you Amazing project, getting all my parts ready to print it ASAP Q. In "External Hardware" Picture and text description, Is it posssible the written description is wrong under your parts\screws main picture is wrong? 1pc - M3x6 screw 8pc - M3x6 screw is that meant to be 1pc - M3x6 screw 8pc - M3x4 screw <--4mm ? I dont have any m3s that small, so will be cutting down m3x8mm one to sit, is why I am trying to clear up. Love the ideal of dowels instead of heat inserts as i also only have M3x6x5, M3x8x5 or M3x10x5 heat inserts in M3 only though.

@laisch

Replying to @OzDruiD :

Thx, yes youre right should be m3x4. But also the 6mm long should work for the sliders. The single 6mm long is meant to hold just the ptfe bowden swivel. I also updatet the description with another Info. So maybe if youre planning on this it's better to wait until I release the other files to get the best results 👌

@Basti85

Boosted

Print Profile

All Parts (clearance 0.20)

works perfectly with the rubbers. I think I will switch the rolls from tpu to pla but it also works with tpu.

The designer has replied

@laisch

Thx. Would be cool if you can share your experience with the pla version if you will try it. I think they will work fine as well, but maybe they will wear a little bit faster than the tpu ones.

@Basti85

Boosted

Replying to @laisch :

I will do so as soon as I've the time for re-assembly :)

(Edited)

@Basti85

Boosted

Replying to @laisch :

just printed the usual ones with pla. got them together with my bodyweight :P seems like they work more relieable than the ones printed with tpu 🙌 no problems so far

(Edited)

@jmhrmb

Seems like you might want to "beef up" the hole where the M3 Heat set insert goes in the slider. There is more than enough space in that recess to make it the same thickness as the M3 heat set so that it has more material to "heat set" into. Especially if you are using the rubber bands and not the springs. I also don't see your "rubber plug" part in any of the files you've added.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@laisch

Thx, yes you're right, it seems there went something wrong with the upload. Now the plug should be also in the raw files. ;) Yes the hole could be made to 6mm also, the initial thought why they are 4mm in length was, that when you use the springs and the m3x4mm inserts, the springs will be flush with the upper surface.

@Tack3D

Print Profile

All Parts (clearance 0.20)

one slider stuck pretty good but I was able get it going watch out for tolerances!

(Edited)

@Olsenproduksjon

The wide backplate doesn't fit my AMS. Do I have an older or newer version?

The designer has replied

@laisch

If it's an older or newer version, I don't know. 😅 But if the big clamp doesn't fit, there is a smaller one ("clamp_small_18mm") in the raw STL files. Print it 3 times and you should be good to go.

@00_Eiki

Hat Super funktioniert, habe allerdings nur jeweils eine Feder verbaut. Das scheint zu reichen. Und oben noch mit 3M Doppelseitigem Klebeband zusätzlich befestigt damit es sich nicht mit der Rolle so stark zur Seite biegt.

(Edited)

@00_Eiki

Print Profile

All Parts (clearance 0.20)

Alles gut funktioniert.

(Edited)

@q2lamer

GREAT DESIGN !"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 5 STARS!!!!

(Edited)

@q2lamer

Great Design i Love it Thanks for sharing clearly a 10 Star Rating :) Danke wirklich Genial.

@danceking2008

“Replacement clamp for new Generation AMS” The mainland version has a triangular shape, and the AMS will be pushed up, making it impossible to lay it flat. Could you please redesign it? Thank you very much!

The designer has replied

@laisch

Hi, this model was added by another user as a print - profile with a different model not made by me. So if you want to have it changed you have to ask @Themed_Attracti ( https://makerworld.com/en/u/2375891046 ) Nevertheless, there has been a solution for this AMS version already in the raw print files like mentioned in the description. There is a "clamp small 18mm" which you can print 3 times to fit your AMS.

(Edited)